Routes in Northern Tablelands for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 309 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Stonehenge South-West cluster
V3 SW8
Stonehenge South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder
V3 Organ Donor

Sit Start. Hug boulder using obviious underclings and side-pulls and work your way up awkwardly using laybacks and toe/heel jams to SW5 matle features.

Boulder 2m
Stonehenge South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder
V3 SW6
Stonehenge South East Cluster Split in Half Boulder
V2 - 4 S10.1

Climb the left arete.

Boulder 4m
Stonehenge One Lost Chossy Boi
V3 Xanthoparmelia Arboretum

This choss magnet will probably be saturated in lichen and moss, don't fight mother nature, just embrace it. There is a distinct lack of good feet after the crux which is getting established on the wall to start with. A good ol' fashioned pistol squat should do the trick though.

FA: Aidan..., 18 Feb 2020

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO"

Stand start on with feet on fallen flake in grass matched on good crimps. Work up in search of a shallow 2 finger pocket hidden in the moss. The hollow flake top will probably pop off soon enough solidifying a V3 grading.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

Boulder 4m
Dangars Gorge The Dragons Belly
23 Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse

Swim Start from the R of the bottom of the waterfall. Easy RH traverse around into the Slimy Eel & The Cesspool of Doom Cave. Traverse through a series of laybacks just above the water height. Finish on obvious no-hands-rest block. Scope for extension.

Set by Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy & Dr. Phil

FA: Ben Vincent, 28 Dec 2016

Deep water soloProject 1m
23 Stomach Acid

Climb starts 3 m right of White Lightening up obvious jugs to tricky blank section then up to crack.

FA: Ben Vincent, 27 Mar 2015

Deep water solo 10m
23 Middle Earth Traverse

Starts from the block end of Thor's Traverse. Traverse down & L along sloping rail and mantle the Dyno Project finish. Traverse L along the large rocky bridge section until it ends. Some committing moves at this level above the large sloping slab bring you to a further rest and the traverse ends at the small shrub. Plenty of scope for extension!

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Nov 2015

Deep water solo 50m
22 Underbelly

Swim Start direct or continue dry from block at end of TT. Start directly below DS before traversing L and low around to the slab.

Set by Dr. Phil

FA: Ben Vincent, 7 Jan 2016

Deep water solo 2m
23 Middle Earth Traverse Extension

Continuing on from the hands free stance at the end of M.E.T (at the small bottlebrush shrub). Keep traversing L at the same height as M.E.T until you reach the blocky blank rooflet section with the precariously placed flake of death (you'll know it when you come to it). Move delicately L and through. Current extension finishes 3m beyond this rooflet in an obvious large pocket (a few meters below and about half-way through the fig thicket above).

FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Jan 2016

Deep water solo 30m
Dangars Gorge The Beach
22 Toy Story Traverse

Start at the downstream end of the Toy Story Wall and traverse R through until the obvious no-hands-rest block at the start of TIAB.

Set by Ben Vincent & Dr. Phil, 14 Jan 2017

FA: Ben Vincent, 25 Feb 2017

Deep water solo 20m
Dangars Gorge Richard Cliff
23 Lackluster Backbuster

Start: The direct line up from where Airs And Graces begins. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are great climbing. Pitch 4 is the price you have to pay.

  1. 20m As for 'Airs and Graces'

  2. 10m (crux) Continue straight up crack to belay where it ends.

  3. 10m Traverse right to mantle onto jutting block, then up corner to belay in large sloping alcove.

  4. 20m Through jam/offwidth bulge (three right hands needed) then up body chimney (struggle) to top.

FA: P.Bayne & A.Stephens (alt. leads), 1982

Trad 60m, 4
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Blue hole area T-crack Boulder
V3 T-crack sit

Harder variant to the T-crack

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Below the bridge
V3 Max Brenner

Traverse over to the crack

FA: Alan Ezzy

Boulder 3m
V3 Botanic gardens

Old fashioned thrutching, or a fun layback with jugs. Choose wisely.

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Moonscape area
V3 crimp left face

Harder than it should be

Boulder 2m
V3 In plain sight

Start on the obvious head height jug. Slap up left on bad feet to the top corner, then a weird tricky mantle out.

Boulder 4m
V3 Gravitational lock

Super delicate slab moves

Boulder 2m
V3 Half Moon

Stand start. Up arete finishing on little jugs at top.

Boulder 3m
V3 Full moon

Left on the arete, right opposed on the sloper, up the face avoiding the jug to the right.

Boulder 3m
V3 Moonrise

Step up on obvious block and trend up and L then to top.

Boulder 3m
V3 Gollum Pit Layback

Sit start under large rail above entrance. Use small feet on opposite boulder. Up layback until boulders meet & into crack/mantle/jugs etc.

V3 Stingray

The obvious finger crack line L of Xray. SDS and up the crack.

Boulder 3m
V3 Gamma ray

SDS and up the right leaning crack, sketchy landing

Boulder 3m
V3 Catfish And The Wormy Jam

Using the woody debris footer press up & lodge your torso in the offwidth. Wriggle, crimp, jam & squirm your way to victory.

Boulder 3m
V3 Long Drop

From start block chest jam the void mantle & ride the R pony (or simply mantle the R lobe direct). Step up & bridge across the void out L to small chip. Reach out high & R to seam & work up to assist with the final mantle

Boulder 3m
V3 Seahorse

Start on The L side of the mantle piece, campus around & move under L lobe to L side of Washbasin. Ride the Shetland pony (small hidden lobe) then follow obvious seam around to the beginning of the mossy crack & then up as for ACITWB/SP.

Boulder 2m
V3 Crossing The Void

Same as for Seahorse but once you arrive at ACITWB/SP span across the void & out to the lobes. Once successfully across and established complete the circuit by topping out LD or BB.

Boulder 2m
V3 Horse Trader

Start on the mantel piece and make your way to the Shetland pony under the L lobe (as for Seahorse). Mantle L lobe and finish up arête as for PR.

Boulder 3m
V3 Rocking Horse Right

Start with hands on the mantle piece, throw a right leg over.

Boulder 2m
V3 Space mushroom

Sit start on ok holds, then traverse left along the holds on the rim without going up to the lip and around.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 24 Oct 2019

Boulder 2m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Scultpure garden
V3 Soft palate

Hang start, campus traverse until you can use your feet

FA: Benji Dutaillis, 28 Jun

Boulder 3m
V3 Left Tonsil

Hard thin start

FA: Brendan Heywood, 28 Jun

Boulder 2m
V3 Torpedo room

Only accessible during bad drought.

Sit start, up blunt nose then dyno to lip without swinging into the water.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 31 Aug 2019

Boulder 2m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders The holy land
V3 Pilgrimage

Start as for 'Cracked vessel', then along the rail, then traverse the rest of the face avoiding the top

Boulder 7m
V3 West Schism

Start in slightly flaring jam and go up right

FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Oct 2018

V3 Weird one

Could be a finger crack, a gaston mantle, or a powerful layback. Complete the set!

Boulder 2m
V3 Sacrificial grain

SDS then left and up

Boulder 2m
V3 Finger of god

Up the face using the right high foot and small left gaston

FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019

Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Tradies area
V3 Asian squat

Jam start at the back, then layback and span up without touching left boulder

FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017

Boulder 2m
V3 Sakata Fusion

Sit start, then through right side pulls

FA: carol lee, 27 May 2017

Boulder 2m
V3 Cold slab

SDS layback up to chip then span out to right and up

FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017

Boulder 3m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Evan Stone area
V3 Al, Ben & Phil's Excellent Slabby Adventure

SS at the L-H end of the slabby wall. Up sharp side pulls to meaty undercling. Delicately up slab to glory rail and top-out.

FA: Ben Vincent & Alan Ezzy, 16 Jan 2016

Boulder 4m
V3 Warmup Sit Start

A lower sit start on good holds, either through a slimper or dyno to freedom.

Boulder 4m
V3 Hock it

Start matched on corner, throw heel on and up

Boulder 1m
V3 The east face

Up the face using the left arete

Boulder 3m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Above the private sector
V3 Tufa tuu far

Same start, dyno up right

FA: Brendan Heywood, 29 Nov 2018

Boulder 3m
V3 Chock blocks

Lie down start then up through chock stones. If you don't want to 'struggle' up the crack then bail right early

FA: Ben Vincent, 6 Dec 2018

Boulder 3m
V3 50 calories in 50 seconds

Start on low fist jams, somehow pull on and wrestle your way to off width victory.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 11 Nov 2018

Boulder 3m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Yoda's cave
V3 Dagobah

As for the full traverse but take a lower hard line

Boulder 10m
V3 Dyno or do not dyno

There is no try. From the good starting jug just dyno up to lip

Boulder 2m
V3 Pan sweater

Fantastic scary highball gem. Just don't fall!

FA: Brendan Heywood, 27 May 2017

Boulder 5m
V3 Baby Yoda

Step over the end of the pond and start on good jugs, swing under and then link it up left all the way to 'Pan Sweater'

FA: Ben Vincent, 2 Jul

Boulder 6m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Triangle Boulder
V3 Sickle Arete

Ascend the arete on nice open handed slopers to the left, then mantel.

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Bus driver boulder
V3 Bus Driver

Start on good edge, up to open handed sloper, then up to tiny crimp, then sloper, high step and done.

Boulder 3m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders
V3 Teddy Bear's Picnic

Sit start on good edges, long reach to lip, then mantel.

Easier variation is to use large detached block for the feet at start.

Boulder 2m
V3 Phenylephrine

As for Pseudo proper, but go left and do a mantle on slopers.

Boulder 5m
V3 Pseudoephedrine

Follow flake up to thin slab mantle.

Boulder 5m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders 40 Degree Wall
V3 Face Jump Start

As the name implies, jump to the second holds and continue to the top.

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders River terrace
V3 Corridor W

Thin start then right up rail

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Little Ayers
V3 Dynosoar

Sit start on good two hand edge with a high foot. Dyno up and left to good edge, then up into groove to top.

Boulder 3m
V3 The jaws of death

Jump to the jugs, then left up arete, dodgy fall.

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Tank Boulder
V3 Arete

Thinner and crimpier

Boulder 2m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Crack Boulder
V3 The crack

Sit down start, sweet moves using only the right side of the crack and stay on the face at the top.

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area Self Isolation Boulder
V3 No App, No Play

Sit start on Decent feet, R hand sidepull edge & L hand on slimper above head. Move up & R to top out.

FA: Ben Vincent, 12 May 2020

Boulder 3m
V3 Coronal Inquiry

Sit start L of the Bursaria shrub on a small L-hand crimp, R-hand sloper and great feet. Up to roof lip corner and then traverse around R arete/top. Mantle to finish.

FA: Ben Vincent, 16 Apr 2020

Boulder 5m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Mad World Boulder
V3 Good Cop, Bad Cop

Start as for OLS. Up crack until it gets awkward & then exit L & top-out on good crimpers.

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Jun

Boulder 2m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Bonsai Boulder
V3 Palm Sugar

Sit start beneath pockets in horizontal break, traverse L on slopers & small feet. Up flarred crack to top. A slopey, crystally adventure.

FA: Ben Vincent, 13 Jun

Boulder 3m
V3 Footloose

Sit start on obvious L-hand layback feature, R-hand arete & small feet. Up to slopers & finish as for PS.

FA: Ben Vincent, 13 Jun

Boulder 3m
V3 The Scenic Route

Sit start as for PS but instead of topping out continue traversing L through funky crystal feature & down into bonsai jug. Continue L & finish as for BBH.

FA: Ben Vincent, 13 Jun

Boulder 3m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Southern Boulders Three Star Boulder
V3 Crack

Climb the thin crack.

Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Southern Boulders Australia Boulder
V3 S4

Heinous crimps up improbable face, grade is a guess.

Boulder 3m
V3 S7

Up the blunt low angle arete? Grade a guess.

Boulder 3m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Eastern Boulders Catacombs
V3 Catacomb Roof Right

Sit start on large jug under overhanging face on huge jug. Up to more jugs then slopers and mantel top out.

Boulder 3m
V3 E11 sit start

Same crimpy start as for Ohhhshishkabob

FFA: Nathan H., 23 Jun 2012

Boulder 3m
V3 Ohhhshishkabob

A sit start variant from the large footy slab and tiny sharp crimp

FFA: carol lee, 23 Jun 2012

Boulder 3m
V3 Back Groove

Doesn't look it, but it is good value. It is to the left further of the Arete.

Sit start and follow groove to top. Could use another light scrub as of October 2010.

Boulder 4m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Private sector
V3 Predalien

Shared start with Neomorph then head up almost 1m to the right

Boulder 4m
23 Trajectory Direct

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 10m, 2
22 Ninja

Start: Arête left of Slackers and Robbers.

Up past break (wires) past one BR to top.

FA: Ben Christian, 1994

Mixed trad 10m, 1
22 Slackers and Robbers

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two BR’s plus wires.

Straight up thin crack, then past two BR’s and up to belay block. Belay #2 and #3 Friends.

FA: Paul Bayne (self belay), 1982

Mixed trad 10m, 2
22 The Private Sector

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One BR is the only protection. #2 and #3 Friend belay.

Up wall to BR, then right and up to top.

Mixed trad 12m, 1
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas The Schoolgirl Boulder
23 Shane's Wall

Originally a project but unknowingly stolen by an unknown, nefarious Brisbanite. Start: The left wall of the dihedral Directly up the wall past three bolts.

FA: Some Bloke, 1997

Sport 8m, 3
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Hope Buttress
22 Fury

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Ball, 1986

FA: T. Gynther & Al Stephens, 1988

Trad 8m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux. From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux).

FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1980

Trad 15m
22 Inertia

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

Sport 10m, 2
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall
23 Tongue Tied & Twisted

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

FA: Al Stephens, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 2
23 Psychosomatic

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

Trad 15m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block
22 Joys of the Flesh

Just right of the small shrub, 3m right of S.S. Up through the bulge and onward to exit up shallow dihedral. Three bolts in total. Double- bolt belay.

FA: Gordon Low & Jeff Gracie, 1995

Sport 8m, 3
23 Trapeze

Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1995

Sport 15m, 5
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Big boulder bend Jawa sandcrawler
V3 Rogue one

Sit start on crimps, campus to sloper avoiding the jug, then mantle through side pull

FA: Brendan Heywood, 17 Apr 2016

Boulder 2m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Big boulder bend The big boulders
V3 Ataraxia

Layback through roof, cruxy bulge then super high ball finish

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

Boulder 10m
V3 Rainbows and lollipops

Thin high step start into dihedral

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

Boulder 4m
V3 Traverse of the cave man

Start on the left jugs and traverse all the way to the right and then up the dihedral.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 21 May 2016

Boulder 5m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Fortress
22 Morning Glory

“Need a little time to wake up!”

Start: At the end of the ledge where PFOE finishes. Traverse in from the gully.

The series of layback flakes adjacent to the balancing boulder at the end of the ledge.

Up laybacks until they run out. Step right to some tricky wires then crimp up (crux) to slopey ledge before finishing up the final crack.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1996

Trad 20m
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Kitchen
23 Lean Cuisine

Start: The line up the face left of Get Nuked.

Two bolts protect the upper half. Up the face (Friends in breaks) to the bolt and interesting crux, past second bolt and up to top.

FA: Gordon Low & Matt Rizzuto, 1998

Mixed trad 7m, 2
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Bastille
23 Deep Thought

Start: The scalloped wall 8m left of “The Jaws of Life”.

Use short shallow corner to get established on the wall. Up past three bolts to friends in horizontal break, then two more bolts to bolt belay on ledge and a chain just above your head, around the roof.

FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1992

Mixed trad 25m, 5
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas Bomb Town
22 Going to Sendsville

Avoid the low crux on Blimp town by starting up Bomb Town and traversing left in at about half height

FA: Benji Dutaillis, 25 Sep

Top rope 12m
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Carpet
22 Nightmare on Elm Street

Start: 12-15m right of ‘Xerxes’, a flake 1m high.

  1. 20m (crux) Up the slab past 2 bolt runners to a ledge/scoop. Up the wall above past 2 more bolts then move right 2m to a bolt then straight up to ledge. Double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Up and slightly right to a small bush via a bolt runner. Right across easy ledges/ramp then up short steep wall past 2 bolt runners to belay. Double bolt belay.

  3. 45m As for the second pitch of ‘Endless Vacation’.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Mixed trad 95m, 3, 7

Showing 1 - 100 out of 309 routes.

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