Northwest Slopes and plains Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northwest Slopes and plains 1,005 routes in Region

1 2 6 3 4 5 7 8 10 9 11 12 15 13 14

1 Kaputar northern section 2 Kaputar 3 Horton Falls 4 Mt Plagyan and Pinnacles 5 Gins Leap 6 Narrabri 7 Attunga State Forest 8 Moonbi slabs 9 The Wastelands 10 Tintinhull 11 Marsupial Park Gully 12 Tamworth Lookout 13 Freestyle Bouldering Gym 14 North West Climbing Mobile Climbing wall 15 Pumps Aerobic and Fitness Centre

Summary:

J

F

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M

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S

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.256441, 149.753159

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

1.1. Kaputar northern section 23 routes in Region

3 2 1

1 Gins Mountain 2 Waa Gorge 3 Mt Waa

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.080128, 150.088070

description

These crags are still in Kaputar National Park but north of Killarney Gap road, near Sawn Rocks.

1.1.1. Gins Mountain 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.105714, 150.067407

description

The Gins are a group of smooth rock pillars up to 15m high on a summit plateau North of the true summit of Gins Mountain.

approach

From Narrabri, take the Bingara Rd to Killarney Gap. Leave cars here and follow ridge North which will eventually bring you to a saddle below the main East face of Gins Mountain. Approximately 2 hours walking time; carry water.

history

To date only one route is recorded although two more have been done by the Narrabri Bushwalking Club in the mid 70's. Unfortunately details have been lost.

1.1.2. Waa Gorge 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.065931, 150.103905

summary

Sport climbing crag on some interesting and varied rock

description

Waa is primarily a sport climbing crag with some of the hardest routes in the north west. NO LEAVING FIXED GEAR. The gorge offers some amazing climbing in a wilderness setting, from slab to steep overhangs. The routes are generally bold but well protected, long and powerful. The different sub areas within the gorge itself differ greatly in style and difficulty. Its worth bringing a 70m rope here, as some routes are over 30m long, so mind the rope length. When it rains the gorge is nearly impassible, and the slabs are a slippery as ice so beware getting caught in a rain storm here.

access issues

NO LEAVING FIXED GEAR. The gorge is valued and frequented by locals. Do not camp on private property. The road access is through private property so take care to leave gates as you find them. The road is also a dry weather road only, so if it's wet don't go.

The crag is in a National Park so please tread lightly and leave no trace. There is a toilet in the car park, please use it instead of the bush. In the gorge itself, take care not to erode the grassed areas, please stick to the cliff line, or walk up the rock slabs instead of the grass.

approach

From Narrabri drive north along Newell Highway towards Moree for 3km then turn right onto Killarney Gap Road (Bingara Road). After about 21km, turn left onto Melburra Road (SR3 to Terry Hie Hie). After approximately 30km, you’ll reach a T-junction. Turn right on Allambie Road to Waa Gorge. Travel 6.5km to the park entrance. Waa Gorge carpark and picnic area is a further 1.5km.

Allambie road is dry weather access only. Access is through private property so take care to leave gates as you find them.

A 1.2 km walk along the trail takes you to the main wall. From the carpark follow the National parks trail to the waterholes. When you get there, the trail continues unmarked steeply uphill until it eventually turns left and follows the creek up into the gorge.

ethic

Established in 2014 with the line of Stephan, Waa seemed destined to become a sport crag. The rock lends itself to bolting as do the lines it offers. However the Gorge itself is a tourist attraction and therefore all measures must be taken to preserve its aesthetic. Therefore please no leaving fixed gear.

history

The first route was bolted by Doug McConnell in 2014. https://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2018/03/new-hard-route-in-waa-gorge/

1.1.3. Mt Waa 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -30.059008, 150.109026

description

Mt Waa is the remnants of an ancient volcanic plug that towers over the surrounding plains. It is part of Mt Kaputar National Park and is accessed via the same approach as Waa Gorge. Its towering Trachyite cliffs offer near endless potential for trad and sport routes.

access issues

Allambie road is dry weather access only. Access is through private property so take care to leave gates as you find them.

The crag is in a National Park so please tread lightly and leave no trace. There is a toilet in the car park, please use it instead of the bush.

approach

From Narrabri drive north along Newell Highway towards Moree for 3km then turn right onto Killarney Gap Road (Bingara Road). After about 21km, turn left onto Melburra Road (SR3 to Terry Hie Hie). After approximately 30km, you’ll reach a T-junction. Turn right on Allambie Road to Waa Gorge. Travel 6.5km to the park entrance. Waa Gorge carpark and picnic area is a further 1.5km.

From the Car park head off in the bush following a faint track 20m to the right of the toilet if you are standing in the centre of the car park. The trail fades and wade through the bush following goat tracks to the main faces steeply uphill.

1.2. Kaputar 493 routes in Area

11 10 7 6 9 1 8 2 3 5 4

1 Ningadhun 2 Innominate Buttress 3 Yulludunida 4 Camels Hump 5 Euglah Rock 6 The Governor 7 West Kaputar Rocks 8 Mt Dowe 9 Lindsay Rock Tops 10 Mt Kaputar 11 The Powerlines

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.288759, 150.123201

summary

Mount Kaputar is on the edge of the NSW North West slopes on the Nandewar Range.

access issues

The road is suitable for 2WD vehicles but is steep, narrow and winding with part of the road gravel.

The area is a biodiversity hotspot with much endangered or rare flora and fauna. Do not alter habitat. The “ snow daisy” Coronidium kaputaricum grows in cracks at altitude and must not be damaged. Kaputar rock skink: https://theconversation.com/a-few-months-ago-science-gave-this-rare-lizard-a-name-and-it-may-already-be-headed-for-extinction-140356 And the famous pink slug.

approach

Mt Kaputar is approximately 50km NW of Narrabri.

where to stay

There are two camping areas at Mt Kaputar which offer unpowered sites. Both the Bark Hut and Dawson Springs camp grounds have hot water showers and toilets. Sites are paid for with a self-registration process at the grounds.

Dawson Springs also has three self contained cabins available to hire through the NPWS Narrabri office.

ethic

Endorsed by:

Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, Scott Camps, Richard Curtis, Taib Ezekiel, Angus Farquhar, Adrian Kladnig, Vanessa Wills (some of whom would have preferred a stronger position).

Retro-bolting at Kaputar

Since the first climbs were done in Mount Kaputar National Park in the 1960s, it has been a predominantly trad climbing area. Until about ten years ago, most of the hundreds of established climbs were protected entirely with natural gear. A small number of climbs had one or two bolts, and a few independent, fully bolt-protected climbs had been done. The 80m north face of The Governor has been regarded as one of the premier trad crags in Australia, with more than 80 multi-pitch climbs, many of very high quality, mostly established in ground-up style and with only a few bolts in total (and often at the technical limit of the climbers).

Since about 2005, more bolt-protected climbs have been established, particularly on Euglah and then Mt Lindesay, then The Governor. At first these were independent of established trad climbs and on otherwise unprotectable rock. But over the past few years other climbers have been retro-bolting over the top of existing climbs. This practice began on Mt Lindesay and then extended onto the Governor.

On Lindesay, about 200 bolts were placed, most of which retro-bolt or impact on at least 20 existing climbs. Bolts were very close together and some bolted lines were only one metre apart. Many bolts were placed beside good placements for removable gear. Numerous chains were also installed at the cliff-top, and the climb grades were painted in large letters along the bottom. Some of the bolts were found to be dangerous – either glue-ins on which the glue never cured (and which pulled out by hand) or dangerously short ‘studs’.

These were not assessable without removing them. Some of the retro-bolted Lindesay climbs are on the bold side, while others are very well protected with natural gear.

Kaputar - Short stud Lindesay copy.JPG

Kaputar - Uncured glues Lindesay Dec17.jpg

On The Governor, at least 60 bolts were been placed which either retro-bolt existing climbs, or squeeze up very close to them. Natural lines on The Governor’s columnar structure tend be only a couple of metres apart, so any new bolted climbs will impact on adjacent trad routes. Eight climbs have been impacted, including the popular moderate classic Clandestiny, and it's start that gives access to five other climbs. Additional chain anchors have been installed at the cliff-top. Some of the new Governor bolts have also been found to be dangerous, including a chain anchor with un-cured glue.

Kaputar - Retro-bolted trad line Governor.jpg

The retro-bolting on both Mt Lindesay and The Governor was visually intrusive, using large stainless ring bolts or shiny stainless brackets.

The people who have done this retro-bolting are not known to have consulted with first ascensionists, other Kaputar climbers or NPWS. Some first ascensionists and other climbers are angry.

Action

A number of climbers who love the special qualities of Kaputar climbing became very concerned about this trend and joined together to take action. The objectives are to restore The Governor to a premier trad-only crag (i.e. no sport routes), and to remove impacts on pre-existing routes on Mt Lindesay (retro-bolting etc). Most of the offending new bolts have now been removed and patched on both cliffs and the remainder will be removed shortly. Painted grades have been cleaned off. This has taken lot of work, time and expense by a bunch of people. If any of the bolts removed from these climbs are replaced, they will also be removed. Any new retro-bolting will also be removed.

Why have we taken this action?

Because we believe the following:

• Existing trad climbs and quality trad crags should be retained in their original condition. That means no retro-bolting and no bolting that impacts on the integrity, or ‘hanging space’, of natural lines. Good trad cliffs, and trad climbs in general, are limited resources which need protection.
• Retro-bolting on established climbs should be opposed and rectified.
• National parks exist to protect natural areas. Therefore the environmental impact of climbing should be minimised in national parks. Trad climbing is generally low in impact, consistent with other activities like remote bushwalking. The Plan of Management for Mt Kaputar National Park (2006, section 4.3.9, page 37 – emphasis added) states: The NPWS will provide information and guidance on Service policy to visitors wishing to undertake adventure activities in the park, and will require minimal impact use of the park for these activities.
• Excessive and unsightly bolting or other climbing impacts in national parks risk attracting the disapproval of other park visitors and park authorities, and may threaten ongoing climber access to these areas.

Trad climbing at Kaputar

Trad climbing at Kaputar requires judgment and skill. Important skills include route-finding, down-climbing (when necessary) and finding and using natural gear placements - which are often small wires or cams/nuts in unexpected places. Kaputar is a good place to learn and apply these skills because it offers trad climbs at a wide range of grades.

Protection is often very good but not always obvious from below. Poor protection is usually mentioned in route descriptions, and/or allowed for in the grading (i.e. increased grade for poor protection). Bold routes on Mt Lindesay can be easily top-roped. Route descriptions on thecrag.com will be amended where necessary to assist safe climbing on climbs that were previously retro-bolted. But climbers should always be wary of attempting trad climbs that are close to the limit of their ability.

1.2.1. Ningadhun 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.284235, 150.065944

description

The first major feature seen on entering the park. It appears to be a volcanic plug but is in fact a remnant of an ancient lava flow.

approach

Cars are best left on the roadside immediately below the cliff - about 500m metres from where the bitumen starts or further up the road. There is a faint track that mostly follows the right hand side of the creek. This second option necessitates a slightly longer but less steep walk contouring around the hillside to reach the cliff. Descent is by a 12m abseil down the NE Gully from chains. Routes are listed from left to right starting at the descent gully.

1.2.2. Innominate Buttress 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.286231, 150.074395

approach

North facing cliffline between Ningadhun and Yulludunida. Walk across from Yulludunida or straight up ridge from the road.

1.2.3. Yulludunida 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.291375, 150.080801

approach

40 min walk in from the Green Camp car park with a well cleared trail. Take plenty of water.

1.2.4. Camels Hump 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.307389, 150.119421

approach

Walk over Mt Coryah and Mt Mitchell from Coryah Gap. Approx. 2 hour hike.

1.2.5. Euglah Rock 135 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.303621, 150.144333

description

One of the most popular crags in the park, this is predominately a single pitch crag - with a nice flat base and easy access. The main routes are all located on the north facing cliff - so unless you like sunburn it's best to save this for the colder months. It is perfect at 10 degrees with sun. As for most of Kaputar there is a lot of loose blocks - bring a helmet and take care pulling ropes. There are 8 new routes put up around 2010 on the south wall that provide a shaded option. Walk left around the base after hitting the cliff for 10 minutes. Unfortunately although the bolts are nicely camouflaged, "22" and "23" have been chiselled into the rock quite prominently. This should not be considered an example that should be followed anywhere.

© (koala)

approach

30 mins walk-in time. Head down the Euglah Springs fire trail (100m past the Bark Hut campsite turnoff). Stay on this fire trail for about 15 -20 minutes of downhill walking until the cliff is directly in front of you. Look for major rock cairns on both sides of the trail marking the climbers trail on the right side of the road on a dipping downhill section (GPS -30.30026, 150.14836). Follow well worn climbers trail along saddle (rock cairns) and steeply up hill to base of cliff. You arrive at a small cave with 'Steel Dance' above you. To descend after climbing, abseil with care (it's very loose near the cliff edge). On the east side there is a rusty abseil point above Burning Spear. Look for the high eucalyptus near it as a marker. For the north side accessible points include chains above Great Oz Wall, chains above 'There Goes the Neighbourhood' or most easily by descending into a small slot to chains above BOTW. Accessible chains are also found above Pink Slip. Most mixed routes have accessible abseil points without topping out. Indicated in descriptions.

© (koala)

1.2.6. The Governor 113 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.282201, 150.146282

description

At 1410m elevation, the Governor is a majestic pinnacle. Located just to the side of the main road rising to 'Mt Lindesay' - the climbing is north facing and up to 90 or so metres in length. It was during the first ascent of Air Raid in 1977 that rangers ordered climbers Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall down off that climb, by helicopter, that led to the climbing ban of 2 years being lifted.

The 1983 Rock guide to Kaputar by Mark Colyvan said that the Governor offers “some of the best lines in Australia”. It is also one of the best multi-pitch trad crags in Australia, with a strong tradition of ‘ground-up’ ascents, removable protection and minimal bolting. The Governor is an excellent crag for applying such an ethic.

Unfortunately around 2015-2017 someone began retro-bolting some of these classic lines and bolting within reach of others. A bunch of concerned climbers got together and removed these bolts.

The activist group want to promote a future for The Governor as a trad-only cliff (i.e. no sport-routes, no retro-bolting, new bolts only where essential on new routes). This ethic had been assumed but should have been asserted more vigorously years ago because the natural lines are so close together (see the group’s statement in the Ethic section below).

In this way the existing climbs can be protected so they can continue to offer fantastic trad experiences, while opportunities for new trad climbs are also protected. Climbers on The Governor are asked to respect and support this ethic.

Sport climbs are available on other crags at Mt Kaputar. The Governor should remain special.

1.2.7. West Kaputar Rocks 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.274793, 150.154707

summary

multipitch trad crag

approach

Park at the West Kaputar Rocks lookout, and roughly 5-10 min walk to base, or the top to rap down.

ethic

Kaputar is first and foremost a Trad climbing area, although in recent years some controversial bolting has occurred. Climbing on natural gear is always preferred, however the addition of bolted lower offs on more popular climbs is convenient.

1.2.8. Mt Dowe 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.284766, 150.167068

1.2.9. Lindsay Rock Tops 137 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.284093, 150.175712

description

Mostly single pitch trad climbing on good quality rock with very good to adequate protection. Some mixed, sport and two-pitch routes on the East face. The recent large-scale retro-bolting on the North face has been removed.

The 1993 Kaputar guide listed many trad climbs, but unfortunately between 2012 and 2016 someone retro-bolted almost all of the North face routes. It was done with ugly large fixed shiny hangers and rings. Many climbers were offended, and the retro-bolting was removed by a team of climbers in 2017. Any future retro-bolting will also be removed. Some route descriptions have been amended to support trad ascents (eg. poor protection is highlighted). Since 2013 Robin Barley has been putting up new routes along the East face. These are on camouflaged black hangers, and many routes are mixed, in keeping with the Kaputar trad ethic. He is not responsible for the retro-bolting.

access issues

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

approach

A ten minute walk (800 m) over a bare alpine plateau takes you to Lindesay Rock Tops cliff edge, where most of the climbs are concentrated around the look-out. Confusingly, there are two peaks by the name of Mt. Lind(e)say in the park. This one is the easily accessible one.

Walk along the track towards Lindesay Rock Tops. Follow the yellow reflectors about halfway across the Rock Tops and down depression in the rock top. As you start to come up the depression head left following the cairns down sloped terrain. When you see two small pinnacles, you've arrived at the start. The north wall consists of routes from Salad Days to Night Moves. The wall the changes direction and becomes the East wall which runs all the way down to the striking corner of Beat on The Brat.

Abseil chains are available above Back Roads.

1.2.10. Mt Kaputar 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.272022, 150.158870

description

Try and get the old Colyvan/Lattanzio guide book which at lest has a sketch as to the approach. Following the rock guide written description is difficult.

approach

The guide says 15 minutes. Ian Brown was on some heady cocktail of speed and LSD no doubt. Follow the wooden stairs to the trig. Hop the fence and walk north along the ridge. After about 10 minutes of bush bashing a small cliff band stops you so drop to the left (west) then walk under the cliff back east and along the ridge some more. You can see the pinnacle below you to the NE, attached to the approach ridge by a small saddle.Drop down and skirt under more rock then follow the base of the south cliff down and around to the eastern aspect. Tussock grass covering the rock means rapping may be quicker and safer at one point.

1.2.11. The Powerlines 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.269324, 150.096006

description

Tucked away in the bush off the road to Mt Kaputar, this little crag has some solid rock and some great crack lines. It's northern aspect and lower elevation can make it a good place for climbing in marginal weather when cloud sits over the higher peaks.

approach

Park car at locked gate to Tubaroo firetrail approximately 1.9 kms above Green Camp or 4.3km below Coryah Gap on the Northern side of the road.

Walk NNW heading slightly downhill from car for 300m through low, dense scrub regrowth until you reach the rocky outcrop at the top of the cliff. There is a good descent gully to the right of the cliff (on the Eastern end) as you look out into the valley.

1.3. Horton Falls 1 route in Crag

1

1 Goat wall

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.330852, 150.337752

description

Small crag on the top of a rarely flowing waterfall. Will clean up with more ascents.

access issues

A small trad crag from 10m to 20m overlooking Horton falls. If you park at the top car park near the bbq pit, walk down the trail for 25m and you will see the main cliff over on the other side of the river. Follow the trail down for another 100m to the first waterfall, cross the river on the rocky section and skirt around the cliff line on an obvious goats trail to gain access to the top of the cliff. Rap down or scramble down further down.

approach

In a national park so please don't leave any rubbish, respect the flora and fauna.

where to stay

Barraba has a hotel 30 min away. Or camp in Kaputar.

ethic

Trad, many routes here need a lot of cleaning and loose rock is a very real threat. Plenty of natural gear placements around, however bolting could be needed on some of the more unprotected sections.

1.3.1. Goat wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.331105, 150.339129

description

The large wall on the other side of the river, overlooking the waterfall

approach

Rap down from above the cliff line or scramble down further along

1.4. Mt Plagyan and Pinnacles 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -30.473797, 150.282674

1.5. Gins Leap 28 routes in Crag

2 1 3

1 Main Wall 2 West Buttress 3 South Buttress

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -30.658011, 150.039824

description

Located down on the flats, Gin's leap is a surprisingly large Trachyte dome, rising out of the plains 4km north of Boggabri on the Narrabri Rd. Unfortunately the rock is very friable, although there are sections with some good climbing.

Useful Info: The "Rock Guide" for 'Kaputar', is still the up to date guide for this area. If there is a blanket of cloud and drizzle over the 'Kaputar' highlands, this may be a place to check out.

© (koala)

1.5.1. Main Wall 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.657891, 150.040925

description

The obvious big dome nearer the road.

© (koala)

1.5.2. West Buttress 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -30.656678, 150.037297

approach

Lies approx. 250m west of the main buttress - set back but still visible from the car park.

© (koala)

1.5.3. South Buttress 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -30.659085, 150.041671

1.6. Narrabri 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.310153, 149.812595

1.6.1. Little Mountain 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.310169, 149.812593

summary

A short volcanic crag. Possibly basalt?

description

South facing crag on the side of Little Mountain (the closest thing we have to a Lookout at Narrabri)

approach

From the Post Office head east along Doyle St, cross the railway line, make your way to Stoney Creek Rd. The Lookout Track is on your right, about 2 km along Stoney Creek Rd. The crag is on the north side of the Lookout Track (-30.310166, 149.812654)

1.7. Attunga State Forest 33 routes in Area

3 4 6 5 1 2 7 9 8

1 Qabbrat 2 Distraction Therapy 3 Water Seam Wall 4 Brief Moments 5 The Gateway Experience 6 Mushu 7 Skeddy Noodle Area 8 Attunga Orchid 9 The Going Merry

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.933555, 150.919395

summary

Large forest just outside Attunga/Tamworth full of awesome granite boulders of all varied sizes.

access issues

State Forest

approach

Roughly 20min drive from the Centre of Tamworth. Drive up Manilla Road and turn right onto Inlet Road, following this until Attunga Forest Road. Turn left onto Attunga Forest Road and 50m or so turn right into large clearing. Follow the first road left into the forest.

history

First noticed potential by Ben Hope and Kyle Fensbo who unfortunately let Michael Moore in on the potential who then went mad, bolting a number of routes.

1.7.1. Qabbrat 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.932362, 150.924167

summary

Collection large boulders just off the main dirt road, some hard face routes, an impressive roof and easy cracks.

approach

Once you've turned left at the large clearing, follow the main dirt road seen on google maps for 450m, turn right at -30.928602, 150.911504. Follow this for 450m until -30.929280, 150.915618 then turn right again. Continue for another 100m and turn left at -30.930216, 150.915786. Continue 850m and park at -30.931455, 150.924265. Make sure to park off the dirt road and do not obstruct any dirt bike trails.

Dawdle 100m up the hill heading South to -30.932363, 150.924016

A reasonable wagon or SUV will get up the trail when it is dry. First ascensionist got an 86 up there so you should be fine too!

Scratch that, the road has since degraded a lot and the 86 got bogged. You will need a decent 4wd to drive in the whole way but if not the walk isn't far.

1.7.2. Distraction Therapy 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.933089, 150.922283

summary

Number of 10-15m walls with some easy cracks and technical thin face routes.

approach

As per Qabbrat however, turn right at -30.9311191, 150.9213205 and park 150m up the road, there is a cairn just off the road to the left. Make sure to park off the dirt road and do not obstruct any dirt bike trails. Head east up the hill past this cairn for another 130m to -30.933070, 150.922345.

1.7.3. Water Seam Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.924916, 150.915335

summary

Blank wall with an impressive water seam through it. May have some potential for some very thin sport lines.

approach

Once you've turned left at the large clearing, follow the main dirt road seen on google maps for 450m, turn right at -30.928602, 150.911504. Follow this for 450m until -30.929304, 150.915602 then turn left. Continue up this road until -30.926263, 150.913749. Walk NE up the hill to -30.924901, 150.915237.

1.7.4. Brief Moments 5 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.931254, 150.923428

summary

Boulder field at the cul-de-sac ending of the most direct 4WD path straight into the forest.

description

Collection of boulders spread around a cul-de-sac ending of one of the main paths into the forest. Low balls, high balls, and everything in between, this area has heaps of potential and fairly easy access.

Try to park off the 4WD track in the open spaces amongst the trees, this a popular motorbike trail as well.

1.7.5. The Gateway Experience 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.931819, 150.924978

approach

Same as Qabbrat, can almost be seen from Daddy Vadar. Walk downhill NE to -30.931839, 150.924713 about 200m or so.

1.7.6. Mushu 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.931597, 150.924130

summary

Big block split in two with routes all around

approach

As per Qabbrat to car park. Follow dirtbike trail past the Mantis Boulder for 50m or so and you'll see it.

1.7.7. Skeddy Noodle Area 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.934567, 150.916234

summary

Large boulder with 2 cracks

approach

Park as per Distraction Therapy, walk 500m further up 4WD track to large clearing. Slightly right of clearing is a small dirtbike/goat trail follow this northwest for roughly 150m to -30.934623, 150.916201.

1.7.8. Attunga Orchid 4 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.942355, 150.913963

summary

Small group of boulders just 20m from a 4wd trail.

description

The Attunga Orchid is small group of boulders close to a main 4wd track, with some established lines, and lots of potential in every direction.

1.7.9. The Going Merry 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.940911, 150.920362

summary

Small group of boulders with good range of difficulty.

description

Small boulder patch, lots of potential to grow with surrounding boulders.

approach

At the end of Inlet Rd turn right at the T-intersection and drive along the edge of the forest until you reach a left turn with a sign reading "Attunga State Forest". Turn left and follow the main path into the forest, it soon turns right and up a steep hill. Stay on this road until you reach the blocked cul-de-sac. Park out of the way, as motorbike riders frequent this trail. Walk up the rutted out trail (this is the steepest bit, its all flat from there) and continue on for about 700m. The boulders will be on the left hand side of the trail about 15-20m. (-30.940909, 150.920177)

1.8. Moonbi slabs 133 routes in Crag

5 3 1 6 7

1 Anteater Buttress 3 Goal Creek Slabs 5 Moonbi Range 6 Moonbi Common 7 Upper Moore Creek Boulder

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.972517, 151.055016

description

The Moonbi area (Anteater Buttress and environs) presents many granitic cliff lines, mainly slabby in nature and much of which has now been explored. In the early years most of the interest concentrated on Anteater Buttress and the boulders above due to easy access and obvious quality. The slab routes are some of the best in New England and there have been no hang-ups with anti-bolting ethics here so most of the routes are well protected.

access issues

The town of Moonbi is located about 20km North of Tamworth on the New England Highway, in the heart of chicken country. The access arrangements have changed in recent years and general access is now not allowed. If you want to climb here you must go with Kevin Moore from Tamworth or with the UNEMC from Armidale. In addition you will be required to fill out a special indemnity form, requested by the landowner's insurers available only from Moore and Stephens. Failure to adhere to this procedure will see a total lockout.

history

The first routes were done in April 1975 by various Armidale climbers. The notable routes from these early visits were the classic 'Snakeskin Flake' 13 by Bob Killip and Phil Prior, the desperate jam crack 'Savage' 19 (now 23 due to a falling block) by Bob Killip and Max Smart, and the bold 'Slabba-Dabba-Do' 17,which was the first slab route to be done,by Robert Stazewski and Bob Killip. The last route was particularly impressive since it was done on sight (ie no brushing or bolting !) and it took many years before it had its second lead. Another route of interest was the popular 'Sorrow' 14 by Phil Prior. A total of eight new routes were put up that year.

Only two new climbs were completed in 1976, 'Laurel And Hardy' 15, above the slabs, by Brian Birchall and, on the Splitters Gully Road Slabs the multi-pitch 'Babylon' 12 by Laimonis Kavelieris, the only climb there to date.

The area continued to see visitors from time to time mainly to repeat 'Snakeskin Flake'. Early 1982 saw the first climbs at Goal Creek Slabs. Ed Sharpe led 'Trundle' 11 and Al Stephens did 'Protection Racket' 14 and 'Up For Grabs' 18. During the same year Kevin Moore completed the first route up high on the ridge at The Brothers, 'Can't Remember Her Name' 12.

However it wasn't until Mark Colyvan and Brian Birchall returned to the area to do the second ascent of 'Slabba-Dabba-Do' in early 1983 that the potential of the slabs was realised. Colyvan bolted and brushed an obvious black slab which he climbed a few months later with Paul Bayne and Paul Colyvan (Animal) to give 'New Romantic' 21 which was an instant classic. This route was Paul's introduction to slab climbing, a style which he grew to love and master very quickly. During the same year Ed Sharpe returned to Goal Creek Slabs to do the powerful 'Scare Tactics' 19. Later in the year, back at the Anteater slabs Al Stephens got into the act by doing 'On the Slack' 18, another route sporting bolts,and Paul Colyvan did 'Slap And Tickle' 17. Paul also did 'Green Spastic Chook' 11, on the boulders above the slabs.

When Paul Colyvan moved to Tamworth the next year, 1884, he did the bold slab left of 'New Romantic' called 'Fashion Conscious' 22 which was the first slab done in the new high friction boots; Fires.

Things were fairly quiet here until August,1986 when the Colyvan brothers returned for a long weekend and camped in a Kootingal motel so that they could eat Chocolate Bavarians and watch the footy at night. They spent most of the three days at the crag brushing and bolting. However they ended up with three great slab routes; 'Slow Fade' 22 by Mark,'Cock and Pullet' 17 by Paul, and 'Head Over Heels' 19 also by Paul!. Later in the year Al Stephens put in two half days bolting to produce yet another good slab in 'Buck Buck Bacaw' 21.

1987 produced only two new routes, 'Bantam' 17 by Larry Dixon, and 'Finger Lickin Chicken' by Stephens, both on the boulders above the slabs.

1988 was another quiet year with two shady climbs on the boulders above the slabs, 'Shady Bridge' by Gary Phillips and 'Shady Tactics' by Kevin Moore. Later that year Kevin Moore with Bob Murison began exploration of the Kootingal Tip. They found 'Scanties on the Chockstone' 14, by Bob, and Petticoat Corner' 14 by Kevin.

The next two years were boom years for Moonbi. During 1989 21 new climbs were recorded. Seven were completed at the Lookout Crag (now totally closed), the best being the classics 'Confidence Limits' 16 and 'Interative Process' 17 both by Kevin Moore. Eight new routes were conceived on the boulders below the slabs. The best being Larry Dixon's 'Faith No More' 21 and the classic 'Beak Job' 19, and Mark Colyvan's 'The Fosbury Flop' 21. A quick weekend visit by the infamous crag developer Andrew Penny with Carl-Joan Jagusch resulted in two new routes, the best being the very popular 'Henny Penny' 18 by Penny. Later that year Mark Colyvan with Jo Monaghan slogged their way up to the slabs on the Left side of Moonbi Gap and completed the very long, but easy access route 'Walking Back To Happiness' 4, as well as 'Promise' 16, a two pitch slab.

New route fever continued into 1990. Twenty-two new routes! John Wilde put up the last route on the slabs to date,the very bold 'Head Over Heels-Direct Finish' 24. Attention then moved to the Lookout crag. Eight new routes were completed, mostly by Newcastle climbers. The best being 'Sebastian's' Maximum Likelihood' 25 by Paul Reviere, 'Zoro Direct' 21 by George Fieg, 'Call Me Al' 24 by John Wilde and 'The Great Leap Forward' 19 by Al Stephens. During one of his visits, Newcastle climber John Wilde accidentally stole Paul Colyvan's bolt prepared route at The Fosbury Flop Boulder, 'Death Warrant' 23. Around the same time Kevin Moore completed 'Pluckin' Feathers' 21 on the boulders above the slabs. The other area of huge development was the boulders below the slabs. Seven new climbs were put up, the best being 'The Caponiser' 17 by Kevin Moore, 'Cock-A-Hoop' 22 and 'Kentucky Fried Rodent' 21 by Gavin Dean, all at Pecker Wall. Later that year interest turned to the two new areas up on the ridge. Kevin Moore led a tramline of climbers up the classic 'Boys Day Out' 15 at The Brothers, then moved on to The Minefield to do 'Hybrid Vigour' 20. With him was John Wilde who, at the same crag, completed the very technical 'Dambuster' 24.

In 1991 everyone calmed down. Kevin's son Anthony Moore led 'Play School' 7, his first lead. Al Stephens made the long trek to Moonbi Gap-Left Side to complete 'Perfect Skin' 15. Then during December when it was too hot to do any long lines, Kevin Moore ticked of three more at Kootingal Tip, 'No Refuse'15, Wasted Time' 9 and 'Laughing Litter' 10.

In 1992 Al Stephens finally cracked his long term project at Pecker Wall, 'Chicken Vindaloo' 25. Kevin Moore, Dave Worthington and Jim Morgan found another five climbs at Kootingal Tip, the best being Kevin's 'Scalpel' 19 and Jim's 'Dynamic Lifter' 21.

The Kootingal Tip produced one more climb in April 1993,'XPT' 20 by Kevin Moore. In October the same year Stuart Whitten launched a small expedition to Moonbi Gap-Right Side (the North side) and completed 'Up The Garden Path' 5, 'Sly Street' 12 and 'Shoulder Boulder' 16.

If you want to do new climbs, there's always lines between the lines. But if you don't, there are masses of great climbs to repeat. Anyone want to go to Moonbi next weekend ? Al Stephens........September 199

1.8.1. Anteater Buttress 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.996171, 151.076613

description

This is the obvious large slabby buttress seen up high as you drive in and was the original Moonbi crag. Descent is made via the gully at the far right of the cliff or by a 50m abseil from the chain atop of 'New Romantic' to the blocks between 'New Romantic' and ',Slabba-Dabba-Do' i.e. when abseiling take a slightly diagonal line to your right.

The routes are described from left to right.

1.8.2. Upper Boulders 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.3. Goal Creek Slabs 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -30.978748, 151.086527

description

Access has been denied to The Goal Creek Slabs at the time of writing this guide. It is apparently on private property and the owners refuse to allow climbers to go there. For the sake of history and the possibility that one day the cliff may be open, I've included the routes in this guide. From Anteater Buttress the slabs are clearly visible from the road up on your right. There are many potential new slab routes in this area.

1.8.4. Splitters Gully Road Slabs 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

description

Follow the 'Splitters Gully' road (bitumen), off the New England Gully Road for about 4-5 km, there is a large cliff on the right high up on the hill, just West of 'Lighthouse Hill'. Walk up the hill (horrendous) to the cliff.

1.8.5. Moonbi Range 94 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.965511, 151.105274

summary

Granite with varying quality.

description

The Moonbi Range is steeped in history, was a cultural meeting place for the local Kamilaroi tribe and neighbouring tribe, the Aniwan people. Edward Gostwyck Cory and a small party in 1832 became the first settlers to cross the range. It is said that they rested under a large pillar on the first moonbi hill, now named cory's pillar or cory's pillow. Many of the local legendary climbers of the north-west explored the moonbies, and climbed at the now closed moonbi lookout crag.

access issues

All the climbs listed here are on public access(crown) land. I will not add climbs on private land if permission is not granted and i ask that others do the same.

Please if you find any aboriginal paintings, i ask that we leave these areas (boulders) alone, out of respect. Some of these are said to be over 500 years old!

approach

The Moonbi range (1st and 2nd moonbi hill) are located on the New England Highway Between the villages of Moonbi and Bendemeer. North five minutes from the village Moonbi and south ten minutes from Bendemeer. The Moonbi range is 20 minutes North of Tamworth and 50 Minutes drive south from Armidale.

where to stay

Caravan grounds at Bendemeer and Moonbi/Kootingal. Both Bendemeer and Kootingal have excellent pubs..

history

Kevin Moore was kind enough to give me a guide to moonbi and surrounds that he and Al Stephens produced. Most of the climbs are on privately owned and closed moonbi lookout crag. But there is mention of a few that are on public land and i will do my best to add and with greatest respect try keep the history documented with these climbs.

1.8.6. Moonbi Common 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.999991, 151.053049

description

taken from 'A Rockclimbers Guide To Moonbi & Environs, 1999 Edition by Kevin Moore and Al Stephens' A big thanks to Kevin for sharing his hard work and allowing us to keep the history of the area intact. All Boulder grades added more recently will have the V rating. All climbs in the guide will retain the original rating system.

About 2km down the Moonbi Common or Splitters Gully Rd (off New England Gully Rd) is Moonbi Common - an area with public access. Shown to Kevin Moore and Toby Hillier by local horseman, Lew Hyson in Nov 1997, the Common initially appears to have only a limited number of short (7-20m) climbs. However, the area has not been explored fully and a systematic approach may uncover hidden delights. Park cars on your right near the tin dunny and cross creek on a corrugated iron bridge. Access to the top of the hill is best by walking west (Left) along the track for about 100m until archery station #4 (check this?), proceed uphill via easiest line. Veering to the right of the fall line gets you to Common Stealth; the left takes you past Jinx’s Line.

*Bridge and dunny no longer there. Total exploration is under way and has uncovered some more gems! There is potential for more trad lines. Outstanding amount of quality unclimbed boulder problems.

access issues

Public

approach

Easiest to park in the bird watchers car park(sign posted) then walk up around the corner to the gate on splitters gully road. Keep the gate closed. Old archery signs are still there. and coming through the gate will bring you in close to the number 4 sign.

ethic

As for all areas don't leave rubbish and respect others that use this area. Its common for bird watchers and horse riders to be in the area. Also there is some paintings on some of the boulders, please respect by leaving these alone, feel free to look but don't touch. We have been asked to keep the location of these quiet as possible by a local elder. So if you stumble across them, please don't tell others where they are located.

1.8.7. Upper Moore Creek Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -31.005372, 150.975004

1.9. The Wastelands 27 routes in Crag

1 2 4 3

1 Tip area 2 Hill 3 Sandy road/east side of hill 4 Underhill/southside

Summary:

Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -31.069863, 151.036084

summary

Granite

description

Kootingal TSR is the land ajoining the old kooty tip (now kooty transfer centre).

access issues

Some of the gates are locked and others not. The recent one that i have seen unlocked, is the one opposite the old planetarium (pyramid building on the opposite side of the road) you can't miss it.I have also been told recently that the one on the corner of sandy road and the new england highway is open. Be careful of the tiger pear if you are taking dogs. Now i have included climbs in the tip compound for historic value and because well there is some dam good climbs there. That been said Council probably wouldn't give out right permission. Might be an idea to say away from the compound during opening hours http://www.tamworth.nsw.gov.au/Waste/Rural-Waste-Management-Facilities/Rural-Waste-Operating-Hours/default.aspx. The fences are hardly high security too, basically crappy stock fences.

approach

15km north of Tamworth on the New England highway.

ethic

As for all TSR's keep the gates closed, even though i have never seen stock in there. Take your rubbish with you, even though there is plenty already there.

history

As far back as 1988 through to the mid/late ninties Kevin Moore, Bob Murison, Dave Worthington,. John Wilde, and even the then barley teenage Anthony Moore (Kevins son). Set routes on the large bouldery granite. Back then to add to the fun the tip was constantly smouldering and the air was always smelly. These days we fortunately don't have to deal with that. Big thanks to Kevin for sharing his guide ( A Rockclimbers Guide To Moonbi & Environs

1999 Edition by Kevin Moore and Al Stephens)

and for allowing me to share it!

1.9.1. Tip area 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -31.068682, 151.039972

1.9.2. Hill 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -31.071131, 151.038906

1.9.3. Sandy road/east side of hill 11 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -31.072715, 151.039235

1.9.4. Underhill/southside 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -31.072133, 151.037486

1.10. Tintinhull 34 routes in Area

1 2

1 Tintin's 2 Porky's

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -31.069143, 150.995835

description

A small Granite boulder area 10 kilometers east of Tamworth. The granite here varies in quality, with ongoing development from locals. Beware the Tiger Pear that grows prolifically in this area, it is a pain to remove.

access issues

Both the TSR (Tintin's) and Porky's are public land but please don't cross fence lines into private property, as temping as some of those boulders look.

approach

From Tamworth head north on the New england/oxley highway for approximately 10 kilometres till you reach Tintinhull road. Turn left and continue on tintinhull road for another 4 kilometres till you reach the intersection of porcupine land and Tintinhull road. For Tintin's continue on 30 metres and the gate to the TSR (Tintin's) is on your right. For Porky's turn right into porcupine lane and head up about 1 kilometre to the top of the cutting. You will see where the old road used to go over the hill on the right, this is Porky's.

ethic

Please keep the gate closed to the TSR (tintin's) cattle on the road is no fun. While we welcome the additions of new routes and projects only ask that contact is made to our group so we may keep things updated (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1442121059411786/) Please ensure you take all your rubbish with you. We as a group are making a conscious effort to clean up this area to ensure future use for everyone.

history

No doubt explored by legendary local climbing family the Moore's back in the day. With permission, Peter Monks did some scattered bouldering on the property south of Porky's in 1996. Also a favorite haunt of one time locals sean mctavish and phil witchard back in 03-04. Now project bouldering area for the Tamworth based, Inglis County Boulder Patrol.

1.10.1. Tintin's 34 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -31.066729, 150.990512

summary

Granite

1.10.2. Porky's 0 routes in Area

summary

Granite

1.11. Marsupial Park Gully 0 routes in Area

1.12. Tamworth Lookout 18 routes in Area

1 4 3 2

1 Intensive Care Area 2 Course Correction Area 3 Obliteration Imminent Area 4 Lethal Devotion Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -31.084300, 150.954139

description

An assortment of medium to large boulders around the hills of the Tamworth lookout/Flag Staff with some fun lines put up during lockdown. The rock can be loose in some places and has yet to receive enough traffic to weed all out it out so take care, especially when it has been recently raining. As most of the boulders are on a hill the landings can be a little heady. If not confident, bring a spotter.

1.12.1. Intensive Care Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -31.084255, 150.952224

approach

Walk from the lookout carpark as if you're going up Flagstaff until you see the first "UT" post on the left (-31.084890, 150.951967). Follow this smaller which splits in two. Follow the left hand track until you reach a small wall with some nice looking cracks through them. From there head down the hill 100 or so meters. (-31.084239, 150.952194)

1.12.2. Course Correction Area 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -31.084932, 150.951891

approach

As for Intensive Care Area however, head right going up the hill once spotting the larger wall with nice cracks (-31.084890, 150.951967)

1.12.3. Obliteration Imminent Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -31.084781, 150.952169

approach

Walk from the lookout carpark as if you're going up Flagstaff until you see the first "UT" post on the left (-31.084890, 150.951967). Follow this smaller which splits in two. Follow the left hand track for 100m or so and you'll see the wall up on the left.

1.12.4. Lethal Devotion Area 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -31.084616, 150.957671

summary

Large highball area, has more potential on it and surrounds.

1.13. Freestyle Bouldering Gym 197 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -31.104572, 150.921640

description

Ten4 Bouldering League and social climbing in a supportive and fun environment. Boulder problems suit all levels and change regularly with each Ten4 season.

Further information can be found on Freestyle's website https://freestyleboulderinggym.wildapricot.org/

approach

7-11 Anne Street Tamworth.

history

The Freestyle Bouldering community was first developed in Tamworth on March 2017 and has steadily grown since.

1.13.1. Ten4 Season 3 Finals and Power Play 56 routes in Artificial

Summary:

description

New Route Set for Finals Week starting 11/12/2017

1.13.2. Ten4 Season 3 56 routes in Artificial

Summary:

description

Season 3 of the Ten4 Bouldering competition running from 10th of September 2017 to the 15th December 2017.

Routes are set according to the Ten4 score card provided by Freestyle Bouldering Gym.

approach

Freestyle Bouldering Gym is located in Tamworth at 7-11 Anne Street.

history

Freestyle Bouldering Gym opened in March 2017. The Freestyle Ten4 community is friendly, supportive and fun for all climbers regardless of what level you are at.

1.13.3. Ten4 Season 2 Finals 40 routes in Artificial

Summary:

description

The Finals Week Route set for Season 2 of the Ten4 Bouldering competition finishing on the 18th of July 2017.

Routes are set according to the Ten4 score card provided by Freestyle Bouldering Gym.

approach

Freestyle Bouldering Gym is located in Tamworth at 7-11 Anne Street.

history

Freestyle Bouldering Gym opened in March 2017. The Freestyle Ten4 community is friendly, supportive and fun for all climbers regardless of what level you are at.

1.13.4. Ten4 Season 2 45 routes in Artificial

Summary:

description

Season 2 of the Ten4 Bouldering competition running from 18th of July 2017 to the 21st September 2017.

Routes are set according to the Ten4 score card provided by Freestyle Bouldering Gym.

The finals week from the 18th of September will have a new route set and will be listed under their own area. Topos are not available for Season 2.

approach

Freestyle Bouldering Gym is located in Tamworth at 7-11 Anne Street.

history

Freestyle Bouldering Gym opened in March 2017. The Freestyle Ten4 community is friendly, supportive and fun for all climbers regardless of what level you are at.

1.14. North West Climbing Mobile Climbing wall 7 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: -31.112301, 150.897957

summary

8m mobile climbing wall based in Tamworth

description

8m high mobile climbing wall. 4 top ropes

1.15. Pumps Aerobic and Fitness Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

Reserve Place, Tamworth, New South Wales