Routes in New South Wales and ACT

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

Located in the middle of the Hueco Wave wall. Beautiful seam with few holds. Very very hard. Beautiful rock. May need to be climbed on rope. Open project.

Start under the roof with 2 undercuts (RH on pebble), move out to the lip and then traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo".

"THE LINE" at the Cave. Climb Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight.

Reverse Rodeo Clown direct into Persistence finishing as per this. Epic Power Endurance!! 8c+ Route

Roman Hofmann

Lower right start to J1.

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! 8c/+ Route

Roman Hofmann

The impossible line directly above the Phone Diddle start. Sit start at the ledge, move to some tiny crimps then up through some imaginary slopers to top out.

Sit start out steep wall to the slab top out.

Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left.

Sam Healy

Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be hard V12?

Roman Hofmann

Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved.

Roman Hofmann

Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!

Roman Hofmann

30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney.

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful.

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

Elijah Mercado

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Sit start to Daoism.

Tom Farrell

Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker

Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" to finish as for this problem.

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

Roman Hofmann

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Sit start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35. An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019

Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete

Sit start and out the steep prow to top out.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem. Hard for the grade.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

Start as for 'From Dust Till Dawn, head back to the start of Anger Management and climb this all the way. Adds a fair bit more decent climbing.

Roman Hofmann

Start as From Dust Till Dawn, head through Persistence and finish as per Anger Management. Another obvious fun enduro classic!

Roman Hofmann

Start and climb as for Anger Management, take the Persistence exit before the crack. Spicy finish and hard for the grade.

Roman Hofmann@13.25

Sketchy all points off dyno up high.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Big first move to finish straight up the ramp.

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James.

Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.

Left of "The Pincer Movement" Follow chalked cobwebbed crack.

Elijah Mercado

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Contact finishing up Savage

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as incredibly thin and powerful.

6 moves, SDS

A.K.A. Lover's Tiff Direct. Go straight out the roof from the start jug and link into the end of Lover's Tiff. Morpho as anything. Probably harder than this if you can't span the first move?

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

Byron Glover

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest!

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Variation to Mr Pink.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Short but desperately powerful climbing. 'Excellent'. Originally climbed as 'Attack Mode' to the fixed biner and given grade 32.

Start: Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Start as for Phone Sex and finish through Shape Shifters.

Start for Vendetta, then drop down into the underclings, make some hard moves through underclings and slopers finishing out the top of the boulder (as for Vendetta or the Joker).

CMCC

Sit start then climb up and top out. No stacking pads for SS. NOTE: grade needs to be confirmed by others.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start. Throw to a rail from some poor incuts praying for footers now that one of the epoxied holds has disappeared. Cruxes - getting from the sit to the good holds, and executing a gaston out left and continuing left and around, topping out on big holds as for the V5.

An extension to Saint Christopher, almost 180 degrees around the circle from Slapsickle.

Extension to Tufa Line. Starting on the right side of the boulder, traverse left and into the start holds of Tufa Line.

Sit start and head left past big moves to the arete then around to jugs to finish.

Sit start and straight up.

Stand start from boulder and lean left to start holds then straight up.

Stand start with left hand pocket and right hand side pull and head out and up. Sit start is still a project.

Sit start and up the left side of the steep wall to finish on high jugs.

Tom O’Halloran

Sage G.

Tom O’Halloran

Lee Cosey

Right most arete