Routes in New South Wales and ACT

Sit start matching the crack between the small face and the slab wall, then use the arete and features on the small face to finish matching in the main seam.

Start climbing up Cupola till the chimney then head out left into the overhang on jugs. Another stunning route with superb rock and great exposure.

Up the crack.

The left deep pit. Layback / offwidth / chimney out of the pothole.

Start on low fist jams, somehow pull on and wrestle your way to off width victory.

Up vertical seam underneath tree branches.

Corner. Traverse right under roof to ring bolt lower offs. Don't see how this is a 16. (It does appear that some holds have broken off around waist level.)

Campus start steeply past two fixed hangers then cruise slab past carrots to lower off at 20mtrs

Just right of the cracks is a juggy slab on great rock. Single U-bolt on top.

Just right of chimney up wall and arête. Grade 10 with preplaced anchor to avoid mantle. Ironstone buckets. There is a single hex bolt above this route to anchor off

Climbs just to the left of the right arête of the south face. Single U-Bolt on top shared with 'Trackside boulder 1'

Up faint arete left side of wall

Up the side of the boulder using layback-type moves. Hard work to get your feet on top.

Start 3m Left of No Hands. Up and slightly R, pull onto ledge and lower off on lip

Starting on the slopey crimp, attack the arete of 'The Golden Triangle'

First problem done here. The tree next to climb was about 2 metres high at time of FA. Looks to have matured (tree branch and moss) making the very top section potentially dangerous with awkward downclimb. Lovely technical V0 to gain standing on top of the large flake, V0+ if pushing on to summit, not the first thing to be hopping on if your starting out!

Sit start as for the great arch, stand up traverse left. Finish up the crack on the slab

Sit start on the right just above fragile good hold. Traverse left on sidepulls and edges, keeping to the solid darker rock. Big moves up to the good edge then up left to the big horn like mega jug to top out.

Sitstart and ignore jugs

Sit Start low down on slopers.

Stand start and straight up.

A 'horrible subterranean grovel suitable only for troglodytes and masochists'. Scramble up the bed of the gully until confronted by a chimney.

1. 10m - Squirm up the chimney and over chockstones to a ledge (DBB).

2. 20m - Scramble up the gully until it again becomes a chimney. Ascend the chimney and belay in the "bowels of the earth" six metres back.

3. 20m - Move out left above the chockstones and scramble for 12 metres up the gully or ridge on the right. 3a. 15m - Variant finish. From "the bowels of the earth" chimney up and exit by a small hole in the roof.

Start on two flat jugs and move through crimps to finish up jugs.

Up face between cracks

The line straight up the middle of the overhanging amphitheater. A sustained pumper. Rebolted July 2021

Reachy, Flaky, Good!

Right side of the slab. Establish with no hands then tap the scoop with your hands (indoor style). Up easily and top out.

Phillip Booth

Start hands matched on the low undercling on the left of the slab. Easily up to top out.

Phillip Booth

2m rt of BW, next obvious blunt arete tending left at top to shared anchors

3 FH to break, FH and up to DBB.

Start: 1m right of 'Small Pox Wall'

Use crack on left and jug on right

A hard start with a long press down crimp move. You know you want it.

Sit start on RH sidepull and shitty LH crimp/pinch thing. Move straight up to top out.

Up the easy rail and then bust out right

Thin crimps and smears

Entry level at the grade -but very involved, despite the objectively soft grading.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #4; 3 x #3; 4 x #1; and at least 7 Long Runners.

1. 45m (26) - Gear in Order: Bolt + LR, #0.3 + #2 + XLR, Bolt + LR, #1, #3 (Optional), Bolt, #3, #0.5 (Optional), Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #4 (Optional), #1 + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + XLR, #1 (Optional), #0.4, #0.75/#1 (Optional), #3, Bolt, to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and Bolt anchor.

In the tunnel between the two boulders. Climb up comfy jugs and big crimp edges to an easy top out. Good for a warm up.

Watch out for the 2 large bolts that stick out of the ground right below the climb.

Traverses the block (Hermit's Cave) right-to-left staying just below the top

Up easy layback rail just right of 'R4'.

Start 2m right of Mini, matching a sloper on the lip. Up right to holds in the thin seam, then mantle onto the slab with difficulty. Frustrating yet addictive.

Heinous minging start or just start up BG. Finish leftward, straight up is Beef Cake. Shares some holds with Beef Cake and is also in the firing line of falls off that route, so factor that in if someone’s already on BC.

Thin crimps up centre of face to sloping mantel. Variations exist.

Start as for Elephant Rider, climbing along the fin feature, before finishing mantling out right.

2 meters right of orange face, straight up to shared anchors.

Straight up. Finish on high jug.

Up the flakes line. Dyno.

Start in the cutting to the left of GOYKAPD. Using the evident hold to start head out and up right.

All killer - no filler. Climb first two bolts of Driller, then monkey left across steep pockets to Cornerstone arete. This is a better and slightly harder way of doing Cornerstone.

Start 5m right of B at blunt arete. Hard start, then easier the higher you get. The loose block has been removed, but still take care.

Jump up and grab the bottom lip with both hands. Heel hook with the right foot. Go from there.

Start as for CUFA. Takes the right hand line up the lovely orange wall. Tough start into the seam, after the third bolt step right and climb the wall.

Start at Geek Heathen then go left through steepness and up wall to share anchors with Truly Madly..

Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab

Start at a crack-line just before the gully at the right-hand end of the main face. Initialed. Twin ropes are useful to avoid rope drag around the roof.

1. 20m (-) From a reddish boulder climb via a series of cracks to a belay stance below a roof which slants upwards from right to left.

2. 33m (16) (crux) From the left end of the belay ledge, climb the rib to bypass the roof on its left (delicate) then step back right to the bottom of a wide crack. Climb the crack for a couple of moves until it is possible to step onto the easy wall on its right (avoiding the vines which block the crack at this point). Savour the fun slab moves up the right wall and then easy cracks to the top. - Good placements for trad gear can be found for a belay on the right, close to where the climb ends.

Sequencey, bouldery, and at times dynamic climbing on great rock. A perfect next step up after doing Bullen's Route. Slightly height dependent through the cruxes, so more like 27 for shorter climbers.

Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy

Start: Sit start below sloper under lip

Start as for IR but traverse low on the jugs to the big flake and move from this to the top. A foot out R makes the top out easy!

A respectable extension of Red Sorghum to the top of the wall - finger locks up high & mind your head game to the anchors!

Note: abseil descent

Keep following the yellow-tagged track right of 'Live Injection' for about 90m. Blind Freddy is the overhung corner crack, mostly hand jam size. Coordinates -35.59474, 148.96907.

Up left side of featured wall to rounded top

Staight up face

Straight up the wall.

Start at the right end of an alcove, left of the detached pillar. Chimney and bridge the wide crack to gain the shallow corner on left, up slab to anchors under roof.

Starts 8m right of descent gully, at small waist high tree stump below steep hand crack. Stand on stump to start then take left line of bolts past scoop and up nice juggy headwall.

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

Hard off the deck, with another crux at three quarter height

Sit start on jugs and up good edges to easy mantle

Slap up to the big sloper, then climb out around the lip heading leftward to gain the good slot out on the face. Punch directly up from here to finish on the slopey ledge as for 'Top Shelf'. The holds underneath the lip as used for 'Interloper' are off.

Start: Sit start below the big sloper under the lip.

Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish

Boulder a short orange wall, past a bolt, below the roof. Straight through roof, passing 2 more bolts to double ring lower-off

Next obvious line on face

The wall and airy arete up and right of AT P1. Some great moves and stunning position. Some of the bolts are hard to clip.

Up pocketed slab to overhang. Clip beneath overhang following bolts left then around nose to DRB's.

Top out for top belay carrots and walk off.

Fine climb with deceptive crux

Thin slab climbing just right of #4 'NJAPF'. Take some small cams for the break.

Sitstart under big hole. Top just left of hole w knee bar

Onto block and up the overhung honeycombed wall to slab finish. Don’t skimp on final moves if tall.

Follow the shallow weakness trending rightwards. Arete/crack on the right it right out! Double top-out for good measure.

Straight up vertical flake

Straight up to step left at top.

Up steep white wall Underneath gold steep section Up little niche on perfect grey rock, trend right and up past big pocket. Dont let your guard down up high. For a 10 metre route you are kept busy. Grade is probably 21.5

Start as for Nicole's then traverse right and top out on obvious ledge. (Watch out for that tree)

Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!

the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work

Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.

Start: Just right of big gum tree.

2 BRs and mid size cam. Great Climbing.

Same start as GTS for three BR's then slightly left and up past two more BR's and 2 FH's into line of rings and steep stellar rock.Awesome sequences! Bring 5 bolt plates.

Some committing lichen covered holds makes this a challenging problem

Sit Start under just right of the big patch of ferns and move up the black lichen covered part of the rock using sneaky crimpers and some tender footing.

A satisfying problem

Up to horn on the top of the wall

Mantle over buldge on right handed side pull

Start on right edge of wall at mark.

Up face, avoiding rather fragile thin flake edge, to break and first gear then continue up to next break before heading right and up following carrots with good #000 C3's instead Up to to break and gear; old school opposed wires or even just a hex. Continue up using as many small brass nuts as you can place to avoid needing the top two bolts.

Has be done just on gear as described after gear inspection and rehearsal, but feel free to improve on this. Bolts are in fine condition (2016) and this climb should not ever be retro bolted.

Note: Topo in 2015 BM guide is wrong, see 2010 edition instead.

Climb up ringbolts on leftside of pillar you can use the chimney.

Start at the small orange and black scoop to the left of GOYKAPD. head straight up to top out.

Rounded mantle right side of wall

2m Left of MP. Easy start then move through bulge to pocket. Head slightly left and up nice featured wall to anchors. Hard !

LH variant of Pew Pew. Shared lower offs.

Hard pulls at the start and finicky at the top