Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires)

Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole.

This climb starts R about 3 metres. Head up crack/corner to vegetated ledge. From here step 2m R onto steeper territory. Follow FH's to a lower-off.

Instead of climbing the crack/corner of Urban Villain climb directly up the slab, passing three FH's below the crux.

A gooey little thing. This climb goes up the L of the two cracks with a hard start and fiddly placements, ending at Fuck Off Noddy 's chain belay.

No easier than Noddy. Starts at R side of buttress below prominent flake. Boldly up to first FH then trend R to second FH. Up to top passing last FH, unsuccessfully trying to avoid stepping L. Chain belay.

Didn't manage to find this one. Supposedly about 3m R of Penile Warts. Up past three BR's on difficult moves if you're the height of the first ascensionists. At top corner above third BR, step L and up to chain belay.

Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts.

Slab (2 FH’s) to easy L traverse. Up with big moves (3 FHs) to thinky exit R. One of the least steep routes at the crag.

Starts on the ground 2m R from Bollox. 8 FH’s. Crux move in the middle.

Stay off until properly cleaned - mid section still extremely chossy. Crux high up on good rock.

Tricky little start into R-facing corner feature. Exit stage left onto short choss wall before mantling into large circular cave with lower-off. Not great by itself - the best is up above.

Starting from the top of the saddle. Anchor shared with JVTV.

Traverse the length of the wall starting from platform to right of falls. Some fun moves with an early crux. Be careful not to fall near the end as the water gradually becomes more shallow.

Sit start on jugs low and right on the boulder. Trend diagonally left up the boulder to top out the left arete

start just right of tree

start seated on block

Up left hand layback crack, around following crack to join A2.

Traverse along break.

Thin dirty face.

Hug and crimp to mantel.

Dirty, Avoid blocks either side. Loose at top on right side, stay in middle or left at top!

Nice. Up face to pocket.

Weird and scary!

Slab

From break to sloper side pull and jugs up arete.

Up cracks from block at feet. To large pocket, was better before rock arrived after storm.

Sit start the obvious ledge. Bump the pocket to better hold. Once at the top, keep ignoring the ocean

Cool moves on good rock. Shared anchor with 'L.E.a.A'

Crimpy slab at start to weird moves over ledge clipping the 4th bolt of 'S.T.O.S' then veers left through breaks to chair anchor.

Roof with unlikely first few moves for the grade and a sit down rest just before lip of cave and headwall. Stick clip first U bolt then jump start to break, traverse left to perma draw and big move to mushroom (now half a mushroom) follow 3 more perma draws to sit down pocket and first lower off chain. Perma draws are in place to prevent the need to back jump to clean horizontal roof and to reduce drag. A good belay is needed as floor of cave follows roof for several metres! Can be climbed to first lower off when raining. Continue up headwall clipping chain with a draw, then committing move past FH to lower off.

Subtle moves past a small pocket to slopers then easy up to lower off on small headwall.

Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.

3 hangers to chain

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor.

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires.

Start under roof, Traverse out break and up wall. Climb on after first DBB to another bolt and second DBB.

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

Fun face route.

Climb the Overhung feature on left side of wall.

Left tending line of pockets on the left side of roof.

Fun boulder problem up the start of the route. Up to sidepull then pop to the jug by the first bolt.

Start as for Scorpio Original. From the half-way flake rest climb up to jugs, then traverse right continuing high to reach across to the finish pocket on "Artie's" via a series of crimps. An easier version than the original traverse but the finish section is quite high.

5M right of Chim Chim Cher-oo. Up the white streak, fun bouldery crux, then up slab left of tree to anchors.

Up as for Invasion Streak then traverse left and climb up flake and wall. Put a long/double draw on the bolt below the flake.

Punchy wall route to finish under roof

Shady corner after Sinisterhood. Small roof to clean wall with reachy crux at the top

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

The things you do when you are bored and it's raining and you want to climb. A metre to the left of Tinker Bell. Finish at ledge as per Tinker Bell and The Shadow. Project Marc Bailey

Totally excellent. A wall in a slight alcove right of RAGS TO RICHES. Up the wall with a bulge, 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Nice one Wayne!

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top.

'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.

Gotta do it !! Blunt arete approx 10m to the right off ‘Cheese Cutter’. Start on ledge, very tricky start takes you past 2BR’s and small cam to tree belay.

SDS, LH arete

A cool traverse under the lip left of the Scarlet Manuka, cool slopers.

SDS overhanging wall L of RH arete.

Rounded arete left of corner

Arete

SDS right of overhang up to obvious pocket, up and left along the lip

Same start as Mind Warp. Up the crack and then head right past two bolts and optional trad gear to chain.

1m left of Canine Conflagration. Excellent climbing on good rock. Up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. 3 bolts and cams (for under the roof). Double bolt belay.

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

An arete/wall 10m right of Jester. 3 bolts past pockets to a tree belay. A cam fits in the first pocket. Named in honor of the famous Zarzoff brothers: Rooti, Kikki, Likki and Shitti. If you are 4 foot 6 inches you will have no problem.

Start as for salt. Vere right for 2m to top of honeycomb. Up through V shape to the left. Follow BR line to belay ledge. 4BR's, 2 NP to belay ledge. Climb can be finished at this ledge, by going to the chain on Chilli Sauce to the left. Watch out for the wasp that inhabit the crack on the big ledge.

Nice balancy start. Crux move half way up with an undercling using high feet. (probably easier if you are tall). Some surprisingly nice holds on this interesting route. Chain for belay.

All natural. Most of the route is probably 18ish but the crux section through the corner crack around half way is a testy 21. Start is approx 3m right of the corner crux section - rightish of the jutting overhang, Climb left until ledge below crux then up corner crack. Move right and follow natural pro line right then left to finish at tree.

Same start as 'Bucanner Blood'. Sweet start with easy moves protected by a cam swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Make you way onto next ledge to left of next bolt and clip. Crux move of this ledge and up to small pocket and next bolt runner. Strong moves to next ledge for a deserved rest and next clip. Start the next move and clip above small overhang and reach high to step up right onto awkward balancing ledge. Stand tall and clip last runner for an easy finish. Belay off bolt runners (spread out) and natural.

5m right of Seaena. Sweet climb on nice orange sandstone rock. Follow bolt line. Natural pro as needed. Eye bolts at top for belay & descent.

Bouldery Start, Stick clip first bolt then up past 3 rb's to single RB anchor

1m right of Merlins platform. Up on to small ledge to place first cam. Up to sloper to clip first bolt. Two crimps, feet up, (right foot as far to left as possible for max. height), right layoff, and balance up to pocket. Clip bolt then up onto ledge and run out to top. Belay off Merlins platform (2bolts, & cam or Hex for directional. Technical & sweet.)

1. Jump start then climb juggy overhang up to ledge then up to chains.

2. Move up large steps approx 8m, climb corner crack to roof and up past loose block, (but secure) up corner crack to small roof and then up to chains.

15m to the right of I.F.T.S. Straight forward and pleasant climbing to crux. Above crux the rock becomes a little softer. Make way up corner crack to ledge.

Obvious line on BH’s. Crux near top

In a small alcove 60m right of Winger Nut. A short corner leads to a 2m roof. Through the roof and up bold corner to top.

Sit start at big undercling, up to crimp then up and layback crack on right.

Center of east face. Strenuous all the way

Sit start just left of Slaptopussy (Right hand in the good pocket, Left hand on crimp) and layback the steep groove up the left side of the little pillar. Shares some holds with Slaptopussy.

The left hand pillar. Low sit start under the roof with good pocket for the left hand in the quartz seam, and a sidepull for the right. Slap up on sidepulls and pinches.

Sit start on adjacent twin crimps in the quartz seam. Big move to sidepull with right hand, then direct up wall. A powerful little move.

Sit start on the arete/prow off small crimp and gaston. Pull on and pop to top.

A great little crack climb. Sit start. Both hands on the juggy flake. Straight up using the crack. Top out.

(The main face of the 'Atlas' boulder)

On the high east face. Probably not worth it given the awful fall potential.

Left hand side pull, right hand low around the arete. Step up into double undercling and snatch for holds above.

An amazing quality line in the Goldilocks zone: above the barnacles and below the friable sharp stuff. Start way down to the left below the high tide mark on jugs and traverse through stonking jugs and jams and finish as for 'Rusty Sea Star'

Paul: What's in the box? Reverend Mother Mohiam: Pain. - Dune

A cave with a large variety of little roof problems which need a special P grading system for pain. Still fun!

Sit start at two jugs, and straight up crimps into undercling, and mantel over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

Up pockets to crimp then to the top. Please don't mantel this problem, to preserve the vegetation above.