Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,133 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
23 The Liverpool Kiss

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth, 1994

Sport 20m
23 Romancing the Slabs

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 22m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
23 Sherlock Hemlock

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 17m, 7
23 Extra Shot

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

FFA: Tom Reid, 27 Jul 2013

Sport 18m, 9
23 Botox Betty

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 3 Aug 2013

Sport 12m, 6
Northern Rivers Urbenville Crossroads
23 Lorch

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

FFA: Duncan Steel, Aug 2014

Sport 18m
23 (Orthrus p1)

Half height.

Set by Nathan McNeil, 5 Jul 2014

SportProject 20m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
23 Lava Lamp

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

FFA: John O'Brien, 8 Feb 2014

Sport 27m
23 Liquid Hot Magma

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

FFA: Lee Cujes & Duncan Steel, 1 Feb 2014

Sport 17m
23 Blowing Smoke

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 8 Feb 2014

Trad 25m
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall)
23 The Lost Boys

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.


Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

Set by Tim Balla

FA: Tim Balla & Malcolm (HB) Matheson

Aid 590m
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock
23 thoughts of future
Sport 25m, 6
23 timeless

tricky, balancy

Sport 20m, 5
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach
V4 A7

Layaway dirty crack to ferny break, out to slopers on rail arete, then side pull mantel.

V3 A14
V3 A15

Can only be done when sand level is super low.

V3 B1

Right hand side pull to left hand pinch on small sharp arete, stay on arete to top.

V3 B4

Eliminate dyno from jug to break.

V4 Nose

Sit start on broken jug, up holds on arete. Bad rock for feet, walking up slightly right side until standing on broken jug. Then straight up arete.

Boulder 3m
V3 C4

Gaston up middle of face to jugs.

V3 C8

Awkward start on jugs on right side, thin to pocket in middle of block at top.

V4 D1

Nice steep little arete.

V4 D11

Off width, start on jug on right block, up left block with some bridging and foot jamming to top out on left block.

V4 D12

Hug up block to pocket and tricky mantel on top, avoid blocks either side!

V3 E3

Good arete with a reach.

V3 E5

Contrived low start, avoid leaning block with toe hook.

V3 F1

Start sitting over hole, don't fall down it!

V3 G2

Follow holds on left side of block using smaller blocks for feet at start.

V3 G5

From break slap right arete to pockets on face.

V3 G6

Low jug at back right to jug on lip with feet under roof, mantel.

V4 H2

Awkward, reachy and bad landing! Up blocky steps on steep face to jugs on lip, then reach of faith to large pocket way back.

V3 H6
V3 J11

Get down low and go.

V4 J13

Follow pockets all the way to last pocket around arete then up. Wish it was longer.

V3 J14

From pockets straight up.

V3 J15

From pockets up and then join J13.

V3 J18

Side pull to pocket and crimps, often dirty at top!

Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
23 The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998

23 Project

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

Sport 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog
23 Sting

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
23 White Lane

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

FA: Nic Wagland & David Wagland, 2009

Sport 7m, 2
23 Shane Of The Jungle

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove
23 Tim's Vital Life Juice

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 bolts to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 15m, 4
23 Elders Have Wisdom

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

FA: M. Schmidt, 1997

Sport 16m, 5
23 Wet Patch

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

FA: R Ferguson & G Ferguson

Sport 15m, 6
23 Wisdom Of Youth VS

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

FA: Gareth Lewellin & Aaron Jones

Sport 15m, 5
23 Wisdom Of Youth

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 20m, 5
23 Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 15m, 7
23 Groovin the Move

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

FA: S Hawkshaw, Jun 2012

Sport 10m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
23 Will of the Word

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Sport 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Sound Garden Cave
23 Talking Marmots

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 12 May 2012

Sport 12m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Streaked Wall
23 White Rabbit

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Oct 2014

Sport 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Thunderbolt Cave
23 Thunder Vision

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 6 Dec 2014

Sport 10m, 5
23 The Space Race

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 14 Dec 2014

Sport 15m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House
23 Hair of the Dog

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

Sport 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354
23 Letterkenny

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Sport 17m
23 Enormocast

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Unknown 15m
23 Reply All

Climb the steep corner and feature.

Unknown 16m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall
23 Sky's The Limit

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2004

Mixed trad 47m, 12
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never New Wall
23 Robot Zombie Pigs

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face. Awesome.

FA: Alan Ezzy, Dec 2012

Sport 13m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour
23 Silver And Gold

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

FA: A. Stephens, 1989

Sport 8m, 2
23 Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990

Sport 8m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress
23 Parting Gesture

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

FA: Danny Rose & Bruce Jones

Mixed trad 8m, 2
23 Sherrif

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed trad 8m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder
V4 Mini Ninja

SDS at big hueco. Traverse R and up.

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Low Boy Boulder
V3 Low Boy

SDS Short flake

Boulder 2m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove
V4 Anti Power

Slabby face/scoop right of tree

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall
V3 Strudel

Crimpy face 5 m right of arete, just left of Jam and Scream

FA: Ben Whittaker & Artie Schultz

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Smoulder Boulders
V3 Donkey

Face above roof. Painful.

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Northern Rooves
V3 Rasta

Roof to slopey top out. Awesome.

FFA: Luke Cornish & Artie Schultz

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Skip's Highball
V3 Rhys's Highball

Start on right hand block, through the right side of the overhang and up the wall

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel & Artie Schultz

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Graniteish Bloc
V4 Have a Blow Job Boys

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

FFA: Artie Schultz

Boulder 3m
V3 Have a Blow Boys

Stand start on sidepulls, too slopey hold in the middle of the wall, huck for the top

FFA: Artie Schultz

Boulder 3m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall
23 Subliminal Erotica

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

Mixed trad 8m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall
23 Misery

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1992

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall
23 Sibling Rivalry

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1993

Sport 15m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Godzone First Tier
23 The Blasphemous Traverse of the Infidel

Starts at far right of big overhang. 1st Pitch - Up crack to about 5m and then start traversing left for about 20m , cams and ringbolts. Natural belay (or use ringbolt plus cams). 2nd Pitch - Keep heading left for about another 25m , all natural until just around corner, natural belay. 3rd Pitch Keep heading left for about another 20m, all natural until you reach lower off chains or turn around and traverse back (140m climb). Tons of exposure.Project

FA: Marc Bailey & Murray Vines, 2012

Mixed tradProject 70m, 3, 5
23 Seaena

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.

FA: Bruce Jones & Andrew Juffermans, 2005

Sport 25m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Obscurity Wall
23 Wet Celebrations

Start under large Yellow Streak, Up past overlap and on left side of cave.

FFA: Artie Schultz

Sport 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Solinari Main Wall
23 Second Line

Start under slab, up to ledge and then up awesome orange wall to anchors under lip

Sport 18m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Nymboida Gorge The Chute Buttess
23 Winger Nut

About one minute west of the campsite. Ist pitch: Up diagonal layback crack. 2nd pitch: Traverse left under roof and up to ledge. 3rd pitch: diagonal left up finger crack, through bulge and up loose blocks to top.

FA: T. Balla & T. Graham, 1996

Trad 45m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Mullaway Boulder
V4 Lion King Arete

Climbs the proud slightly overhanging arete. The most striking line of the boulder.

FA: Travis Bettison, 1 Jul 2017

Boulder 6m
V3 Pumbaa

Sit start below the bulge on two undercling pockets. Up and over. Very good.

Boulder 3m
Mid North Coast Valla beach headland
V3 High traverse

Sit start on the left, up and along the sloper rail and then up to obvious jug finish. Harder if you eliminate low feet.

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Middle Head Lowtai cave
V3 Mr. Squiggle

Start R on rail move L through crimps, undercling and then back down through block slopers and crack before moving back up to finish on the juggy rail of BU

FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Jun 2017

Boulder 2m
V3 Left Shrinkage

Sit start on two low holds, up to block.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

FA: Steve Karma, 23 Oct 2016

Boulder 4m
V3 Balls up

Sit start as Left Shrinkage and head left and up mantle directly over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

FA: Joanne Low, 23 Oct 2016

Boulder 3m
V3 Pot Luck

Start 1m R of DLAJF. Move up through obvious jugs before pushing out to the final, shallow-dish of a hold

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Feb 2016

Boulder 4m
V3 Fix Up, Look Sharp

An extension of TCN. From the top of the block stand high and move up through small sharp pockets. Match finish in obvious horizontal break. A rascal of a climb with dizzying heights.....

FA: Ben Vincent, 16 Feb 2017

Boulder 5m
V4 Lowtai Traverse

Same start as P.P. Low ball, traversing R through features at about 1m height above the sand. Once at the obvious corner traverse R at about 2m above sand. same finish as P.P.

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Feb 2017

Boulder 2m
V4 Pandanus Pass

Same corner block match-start as Sandgroper. From here at the caves edge traverse R over sharp, juggy holds of M.H and R.B and through blocky jugs to corner. Continue R along wall to obvious rest halfway through route. Continue R through until Pandanus. Use face holds the whole way (i.e. the top of the wall is out).

FA: Ben Vincent, 7 Dec 2016

Boulder 4m
V3 Dank Guano Traverse

Starting from the ledge beneath S.G. traverse L and low past the start of S.F. and into an obvious deep crackline. Finishes at constriction.

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 May 2017

Boulder 2m
Mid North Coast Middle Head The Far Side
V4 No Lobster No Cry

Start in bottom of crack beneath overhanging block. Follow crack diagonally up and L to get established on arête before committing to an awkward mantle top out.

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 May 2017

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Grassy Head Ripple Wall
V3 Wedge

Start in obvious open corner beneath two large overhanging blocks. Up and mantle in between blocks. Exit L to Descent Corner.

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 May 2017

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Camp Ground Quarry
V3 Park arete

Hard start, very good!

V3 Camp Arete
V4 Gaol Break

Salty slopers, clean well. Highball

V3 Morning Glory
Boulder 3m
V3 Plaque centre

Up centre of plaque wall to trick mantle

Boulder 2m
V3 Wet Feet

Best problem on wall. Low tide only, avoid area in large swell periods!


Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,133 routes.

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