Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 371 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
31 Vixen

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 17 Aug 2014

Sport 20m, 9
31 Dominatrix

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 29 Sep 2013

Sport 23m, 12
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Mullaway Boulder
V9 Ocean's Razor

A really beautiful problem. Climbs the 10-degree overhung face starting on the low break and working through some tough and unique moves to the top. Worth the stars.

FA: Travis Bettison, 18 Mar 2018

Boulder 5m
Hunter Valley Newcastle Glenrock Lagoon Bouldering Waterfall Boulder
V9 Tree of Life Left

FA: Stephen Waring, 15 Jul 2017

Boulder 4m
V10 Tree of Life

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side on a big under cling, up on some slopey ledges to finish up on the arete.

FA: Stephen Waring, 7 Jul 2017

Boulder 4m
V10 A Crow Left of the Murder

The wall immediately left of the waterfall, opposite the Tree of Life Block. Start on the horizontal jug, go up and finish on the jug ledge to the right.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

FA: Michael Tonon

Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders
V9/10 The Matt Wrigley Problem of 2004

Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.

FA: Matt Wrigley, 2004

Boulder 3m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Tank Boulder
V9 Suzeranity

Tall mans start up rail, then hard long move left to link into other rail.

Boulder 5m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Northeast Boulders Northeast Group Spiderman area
V9 Rogue style
Boulder 4m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Northeast Boulders Northeast Group Fluming area
V9 Matty's Dyno

Right of The Fluming. Stand start on 2 shit edges, jump to top. Grade may be off. Sit start still a project.

FA: Matt Wrigley, 2001

Boulder 3m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Closed Ring pull boulder
31 O'hara
Sport 4
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Mad Woman's Breakfast Area
V8 - 10 Project

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Boulder 2m
Northern Tablelands Cathedral Rock National Park Magic bean
V10 Magic project

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Car Park Boulders Karma boulder
V9 Rama

Up left side of overhang

Boulder 4m
Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck New Age area Balanced arrow
V10 Lemonade Stand

Amazing short line. Stand start on good crimps then big hard dead point to slopper, match and mantle

FA: Michael Tonon, 24 May 2018

Boulder 3m
Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Trackside area Trackside Boulder
V9 Breakfast in Las Vegas Sit Start
V10 Pinch Me

SDS from detatched flake/poor pinch and dyno to lip and top-out.

Listed as having 2 repeats in Rock Magazine #48 (2001)

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Lost world Lost boulder
V10 Lost Dyno

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Boulder 2m
Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Sharpest Mono area Sharpest mono boulder
V10 Snake eyes

Chin up on the twin mono's. A taste of 'Action Directe' in New England!

BoulderProject 1m
Northern Tablelands Closed Beulah Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Boulders Big boy boulder
V8 - 10 Open project 24

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

BoulderProject 4m
Northern Tablelands Closed Beulah Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders River side sector The pit area
V9/10 Dyno project

Match on the big flake and dyno to glory

Central Coast Koolewong Lara Street Boulders Pitt Brick
V10 A Lesson In Core Movements

Start 4m right of Womb Raider in the slopey 1 and 2 finger pockets and traverse up and left into Womb Raider top out.

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

FA: Michael Tonon, 8 Jun 2012

Boulder 4m
V10 Eli's Closed Proj

Start as for A Lesson In Core Movements and head up and right. Once at the lip, keep traversing right to top out as for Mick's Arete Left.

FA: Liam Healy, 2017

Boulder 3m
V10 Neil's Arete

Sit start at the bottom right hand corner of the arete then move up and left on horrible slopes to a hard top out. NOTE: The far undercling holds on Micks arete are off.

FA: Neil Wallace, 2010

Boulder 4m
Central Coast Koolewong Lara Street Boulders Star Boulder
V10 Han Solo

Starts matched on obvious jug on the right side of the left arête. Head straight up using poor slopers and side pulls to mantle straight over the top. An awesome line.

FA: Michael Tonon, 1 Oct 2014

Central Coast Dark Forrest The Happy Place
V9 Magic Beans

Start: Sit start as for Yummy noodle. Then move right on underclings below the capped roof. Finish up 'Dead bolt direct' left of the block above.

V10 Long Udon

Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

V9 Viking Invader

Climb the low rail out right but keep going, staying low under the little prow. Come up into the second scoop, press through and gain the lip on the R/H side. Mantle as for "Hydraulic"

Start: Sit start as for previous problems

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

V10 Gleaming The Cube Project

Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'

Central Coast Dark Forrest Monkey Cave
V9 Kong
Central Coast Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe Boulders The Top Cave
V10 Bullet and a Target

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. The whole top shelf ledge is off as is the good slot out on the little head wall

Start: Sit as for Firing squad,

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2009

Central Coast Umina The Brown Room The Pergola
V9 six feet rats

Climb 6ft deep into hot rats topout

FA: dan

V9 Deep Causes

Link 6ft deep into causes

FA: dan

V10 Deep Brain Trauma

6ft deep into Rats cause broken brains

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2008

V9 Rats Caused Broken Brains

start as for hot rats and climb all the way into broken brains

FA: Dan da Silva, 2008

V9 Brutal

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

Central Coast Umina The Gold Fields The Golden Section
V9 Gold Member

Crouch start on the small pockets under the roof, big move up to the crimps on the lip. Finish as for Goldie Horn.

Boulder 4m
V10 Man With The Golden Gun

Start on the big pockets on the pillar on the right of cave. Move out and left to join the lip and finish as for Goldie Horn.

Boulder 4m
Central Coast Blackwall Underworld
V8/9 Room with a better view

Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.

FA: Michael Tonon, 20 Sep 2018

Boulder 10m
V10/11 Sloths in the Attic

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

FA: Michael Tonon, 19 Sep 2015

Boulder 15m
Central Coast Woy Woy Road House The Dug Out
V9 Fast Ball

This is the nastiest finish going. Frustration! and it's usually wet. Start on some deep breaks at the back r/h side of the cave. Climb out to the big obvious jug now try to climb directly out the very steep roof to the rounded top out 1m right of the other problems. Uses the bad bad pinch type hold that looks like it may have broken. Heart breaking last throw to the slopers

Start: Back r/h Side of cave

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

V9 Fast Ball Variant

As for fast ball but move left through poor holds to slap out the blunt left hand little 'Arete' of the cave. Still avoids using any holds from the established line for your hands especially the huge jug on the lip.

Start: Sit start as for 'Back Burner'

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

V10 Bases Loaded

Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off!

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

V9 heavy hitter

Start on right most jug and dyno to the lip. Mantle straight over.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 15 Dec 2015

V9 Batter up

Start as for established line and head to right big dinner plate jug. Then head straight out through small crimps and an undercling near the lip in the middle of the lip.

FA: Michael Tonon, 17 Jul 2012

V10 All bases reloaded

Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up

FA: michael tonon, 14 Oct 2014

Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge The Graveyard Lower Side
V10 早上好

Sit start to the right of the boulder and avoid using the rock on the ground. Powerful moves to the end of Hanging Low. Dabby and contrived.

Boulder 4m
Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase Temple of Doom Sweetest Thing Boulder
V9 The Sweetest Thing
Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase Nameless
V8/9 Sharik's Arete

Up the arete over the fallen block.

FA: Sharik Walker

Boulder 7m
Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Closed Alfords Point Bouldering
V10 Atrocity

Start Jetski Jerks & staying below the break & holds on break until into Love Gun & finish same as Love Gun. Pumpy.

FA: Damien Alexander, 4 Aug 2014

V10 Love Gun

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

V9 String 'Em Up

Excellent! Link the start of 'Love Gun' into the finish of 'Stringybark Massacre'. Good moves.

Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Bangor West
V9 Arête Problem

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack.

FA: joe, 2000

Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Bangor Blocs Blocs
V10 Massive Attack

Start 2m R of WW. Start in chosscave, huge move to sandy ugly hold and up.

mattias braach-maksvytis

FFA: Cam Taylor

Boulder 4m
Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Closed Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) Bonnet Bay Cave
V10 The Cling Thing
Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Jannali Reserve
V10 Wish You Were Joe

Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10"

Boulder 5m
Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Villas Closed The Villas Cave
V10 R Shoosh

Start 'Savage', finish 'Paul's Present', no back wall.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V10 R Paul's Present

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2000

Boulder 7m
V10 R Entry Point

Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft?

Cory Cook

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2013

V10 R Exit Wounds

2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Closed Prices Cave
V10 Magnum

3m right of the crack, crawl into the back of the black dark go even further in again...go on, all the way.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Dead Chinaman's Wall
V9 Super Me

Pull on to the crimp and then jump.

Boulder 3m
Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland The Wing Cave
V9 Puppy Love

Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.

V10 Two Mats and a Sqeaky Dog

Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.

Sage G.

V9 Locked In

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Sep 2012

V9 Lock Tight

From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.

V10 Whinging Poms
V10 Sheffield Steal

"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon

FA: Jon Fullwood, 2003

V9 Watch Your Sack Crack

Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.

Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Cape Solander Kurnell
V8/9 The Little Mermaid

About 100m further south on a steep boulder near the water. Start matched on the bucket jug, set up and go!

Matti Puckridge

Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline The Far Side
V10 Ultimate Surrender

A real wrestle. Starting on the obvious jug at the end of the rail, reverse Hollow mountain dreaming and finish up 7th Day Ascentist.

FA: sam

Boulder 4m
Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Left Hand Side
V10 C.O.A.T

Sit start on slopey crimp. Move straight up via sharp LH crimp to top on slopers.

Oliver Chen Tyrone Clements

FA: Matt Wrigley

Boulder 3m
Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline The Eastern Bloc
V9 Dynamite

Out sharp pockets in the roof to desperate mantle staying left of Violent Crumble. Watch out for exploding holds …

Start: Sit

FA: Matt Wilder/Saxon Johns

Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall
V10 R Woolly Jumper

Paste your feet on and dyno to slot then up through scoop.

Elijah Mercado

FA: Tim O'Neill

V9/10 Woolly Crimper

F4 via the sharp crimp statically.

V10 R American Siege

Tough move up to sidepull, then to mono and'better' holds, then up slab.

Sam Healy

FA: Matt Wilder

V10 Phone Lock

Sit start into 'Paratroopin'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V10 Hurtsagovernor

Start as for Paratroopin and keep traversing right into Pockets of the highlander.

FA: Hugo Hornshaw, 2 Aug

V9 Pockets of the highlander

Start from Pockets Of Resitance and traverse right to finish up Highlander

Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre
V9 R El Kooko

Start low 'matched' on the flake down below the roof. Gain the juggy ledge and lunge to starting pockets of Ascension Day, finishing up and left as for Ascension Day. Knock it down a grade if you exit via jugs.

Start: Sit

FA: Paul Westwood

V9 Bea Fia

Start = as for ElKooko Traverse right staying (Very) low and finish up Snake Bite.

FA: Diego DeDiana, 2010

V9 Low Down Boogie (Original)

Boogie Knights starting as for El Kooko, topping as per ascension day.

Boulder 5m
V10 Chest Rockwell

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into Boogie Knights original finish. Knock a grade off for the variant finish.

V9 Captain Courageous Left

Start Sloper-Dan and climb to jugs just left of tree, up to crimps & dead point to slopey rail to finish out left. Probably a grade easier if you move a bit left into undercling & climb as for Shell Shocked.

FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015

V9 Captain Courageous Right

Start as for Chest Rockwell & finish with Captain Courageous.

FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015

V10 The War Gherkin

Start up Diplomatic Immunity and traverse right through slopey break to finish up The Invisible Gerka, some where between hard V8 and V9/10

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2017

Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Area Q
V9 Pneuma

Climb up 'Arms Race' till the break before big move right to small crimp. Cross to finger jug to finish as for 'L'Homme Left'.

Emmanuel Madayag

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 26 Feb 2020

Boulder 6m
V10 Rocket Man Left

As for Rocket Man but right hand big move and top out left.

Boulder 4m
V10 Rocket Man

L'Homme Obu standing start from the big break on If the Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up 'Rocket Pants'.

Oliver Chen

FA: Fred Nicole

V9 Low Rider

Sit start for super reach/dyno around bulge and finish up If the glove fits.

Start: Sit

FA: James Alexander

Boulder 5m
V9 If The Thong Fits

Same starting hold as Q7 (the jug only) but left to sharp triangular crimp and right to rounded crimp then lunge out right to finish up Q15.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V10 Benchmark

Start as of 'Killer arms' (v8) and finish up as for 'Pneuma' (v9).

First ascent

FA: John Bignold, 30 May 2020

Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Lip
V9 All The Tables Are Reversed In My Private Universe

Classic Compression Problem with a tough top out. Start at the obvious jug at the left end of the cave. Using what ever holds needed (they are obvious) to gain the lip and then mantle up and over.

Tyrone Clements

FA: Patrick John Reynolds, Jul 2011

Boulder 3m
V10 All The Tablets Are Rehearsed

Adds a low start to "All the tables are reversed in my private universe". Start at the very back of the cave and make a big move to the start jug of "tables" and finish as per the v10.

Chris Beers

Roman Rosen

FA: Patrick John Reynolds, Aug 2011

Boulder 3m
Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Mustard Cave
V9 Little Things

FA: Alan Crouch, 2017

Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Trenches In The Trenches
V9 arete project

FA: neil / matt kelly ? & neil / matt kelly ?

Boulder 4m
Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Trenches The Mess Kitchen
V9 Bianca's Boobies

Start directly under the prow on pockets then straight up for a desperate top out.

Sam Healy

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000

Boulder 4m
Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Trenches The Caves
V10 Mr Winston

Sit start on the tufa feature, powerful moves through roof finishing up the series of blunt pinches and edges in the centre of the headwall. Resist climbing out to better holds on the left. Named after James' cat.

Travis Bettison

FA: James Scarborough, 2002

Boulder 4m
V10 Arcane Power Variant

The more common exit of Arcane Power before the truth was rediscovered. Finish up through the big pocket.

Peter Jeavons Travis B

Boulder 4m
V10 Siotaro Wish Flower

Starting on the right end of the rail, a large move to a pocket and gymnastic moves join the start of Y2k Cont, moving back to finish up Mr Winston.

The first ascent started with feet out right as more of an independent start but has been repeated by starting at the far left rail and feet on starting jugs of Bring It On at V9

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 7 May 2019


Showing 1 - 100 out of 371 routes.

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