|Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X|
5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 17 Aug 2014
Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 29 Sep 2013
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Mullaway Boulder|
|V9||★★ Ocean's Razor
A really beautiful problem. Climbs the 10-degree overhung face starting on the low break and working through some tough and unique moves to the top. Worth the stars.
FA: Travis Bettison, 18 Mar 2018
|Hunter Valley Newcastle Glenrock Lagoon Bouldering Waterfall Boulder|
|V9||Tree of Life Left
FA: Stephen Waring, 15 Jul 2017
|V10||★★★ Tree of Life
Sit start under the steep wall on the right side on a big under cling, up on some slopey ledges to finish up on the arete.
FA: Stephen Waring, 7 Jul 2017
|V10||A Crow Left of the Murder
The wall immediately left of the waterfall, opposite the Tree of Life Block. Start on the horizontal jug, go up and finish on the jug ledge to the right.
FA: Michael Tonon
|Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders|
|V9/10||★★ The Matt Wrigley Problem of 2004
Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.
FA: Matt Wrigley, 2004
|Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge South-Western Boulders Tank Boulder|
Tall mans start up rail, then hard long move left to link into other rail.
|Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Northeast Boulders Northeast Group Spiderman area|
|Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Northeast Boulders Northeast Group Fluming area|
|V9||★★ Matty's Dyno
Right of The Fluming. Stand start on 2 shit edges, jump to top. Grade may be off. Sit start still a project.
FA: Matt Wrigley, 2001
|Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Closed Ring pull boulder|
|Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Mad Woman's Breakfast Area|
|V8 - 10||Project
This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.
Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.
Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.
|Northern Tablelands Cathedral Rock National Park Magic bean|
Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.
|Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Car Park Boulders Karma boulder|
Up left side of overhang
|Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck New Age area Balanced arrow|
|V10||★★★ Lemonade Stand
Amazing short line. Stand start on good crimps then big hard dead point to slopper, match and mantle
FA: Michael Tonon, 24 May 2018
|Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Trackside area Trackside Boulder|
|V9||Breakfast in Las Vegas Sit Start
SDS from detatched flake/poor pinch and dyno to lip and top-out.
Listed as having 2 repeats in Rock Magazine #48 (2001)
FA: Fred Nicole, 2000
|Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Lost world Lost boulder|
|V10||★ Lost Dyno
Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug
|Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Sharpest Mono area Sharpest mono boulder|
Chin up on the twin mono's. A taste of 'Action Directe' in New England!
|Northern Tablelands Closed Beulah Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Boulders Big boy boulder|
|V8 - 10|| ★★★ Open project 24
From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.
Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.
|Northern Tablelands Closed Beulah Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders River side sector The pit area|
|V9/10|| ★★ Dyno project
Match on the big flake and dyno to glory
|Central Coast Koolewong Lara Street Boulders Pitt Brick|
|V10||★★★ A Lesson In Core Movements||4m|
|V10||★★ Eli's Closed Proj
Start as for A Lesson In Core Movements and head up and right. Once at the lip, keep traversing right to top out as for Mick's Arete Left.
FA: Liam Healy, 2017
|V10||★★★ Neil's Arete
Sit start at the bottom right hand corner of the arete then move up and left on horrible slopes to a hard top out. NOTE: The far undercling holds on Micks arete are off.
FA: Neil Wallace, 2010
|Central Coast Koolewong Lara Street Boulders Star Boulder|
|V10||★★★ Han Solo
Starts matched on obvious jug on the right side of the left arête. Head straight up using poor slopers and side pulls to mantle straight over the top. An awesome line.
FA: Michael Tonon, 1 Oct 2014
|Central Coast Dark Forrest The Happy Place|
|V9||★★ Magic Beans
Start: Sit start as for Yummy noodle. Then move right on underclings below the capped roof. Finish up 'Dead bolt direct' left of the block above.
|V10||★ Long Udon
Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000
|V9||★★★ Viking Invader
Climb the low rail out right but keep going, staying low under the little prow. Come up into the second scoop, press through and gain the lip on the R/H side. Mantle as for "Hydraulic"
Start: Sit start as for previous problems
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000
|V10||★ Gleaming The Cube Project
Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'
|Central Coast Dark Forrest Monkey Cave|
|Central Coast Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe Boulders The Top Cave|
|V10||★★ Bullet and a Target
Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. The whole top shelf ledge is off as is the good slot out on the little head wall
Start: Sit as for Firing squad,
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2009
|Central Coast Umina The Brown Room The Pergola|
|V9||★★ six feet rats
Climb 6ft deep into hot rats topout
|V9||★ Deep Causes
Link 6ft deep into causes
|V10||★★ Deep Brain Trauma
6ft deep into Rats cause broken brains
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2008
|V9||★★★ Rats Caused Broken Brains
start as for hot rats and climb all the way into broken brains
FA: Dan da Silva, 2008
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007
|Central Coast Umina The Gold Fields The Golden Section|
Crouch start on the small pockets under the roof, big move up to the crimps on the lip. Finish as for Goldie Horn.
|V10||Man With The Golden Gun
Start on the big pockets on the pillar on the right of cave. Move out and left to join the lip and finish as for Goldie Horn.
|Central Coast Blackwall Underworld|
|V8/9||★★★ Room with a better view
Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.
FA: Michael Tonon, 20 Sep 2018
|V10/11||★★★ Sloths in the Attic
Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.
FA: Michael Tonon, 19 Sep 2015
|Central Coast Woy Woy Road House The Dug Out|
|V9||★★ Fast Ball
This is the nastiest finish going. Frustration! and it's usually wet. Start on some deep breaks at the back r/h side of the cave. Climb out to the big obvious jug now try to climb directly out the very steep roof to the rounded top out 1m right of the other problems. Uses the bad bad pinch type hold that looks like it may have broken. Heart breaking last throw to the slopers
Start: Back r/h Side of cave
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007
|V9||★★★ Fast Ball Variant
As for fast ball but move left through poor holds to slap out the blunt left hand little 'Arete' of the cave. Still avoids using any holds from the established line for your hands especially the huge jug on the lip.
Start: Sit start as for 'Back Burner'
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000
|V10||★★★ Bases Loaded
Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off!
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000
|V9||★ heavy hitter
Start on right most jug and dyno to the lip. Mantle straight over.
FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 15 Dec 2015
Start as for established line and head to right big dinner plate jug. Then head straight out through small crimps and an undercling near the lip in the middle of the lip.
FA: Michael Tonon, 17 Jul 2012
|V10||All bases reloaded
Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up
FA: michael tonon, 14 Oct 2014
|Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge The Graveyard Lower Side|
Sit start to the right of the boulder and avoid using the rock on the ground. Powerful moves to the end of Hanging Low. Dabby and contrived.
|Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase Temple of Doom Sweetest Thing Boulder|
|V9||The Sweetest Thing
|Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase Nameless|
Up the arete over the fallen block.
FA: Sharik Walker
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Closed Alfords Point Bouldering|
Start Jetski Jerks & staying below the break & holds on break until into Love Gun & finish same as Love Gun. Pumpy.
FA: Damien Alexander, 4 Aug 2014
|V10|| ★★★ Love Gun
Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.
|V9|| ★★★ String 'Em Up
Excellent! Link the start of 'Love Gun' into the finish of 'Stringybark Massacre'. Good moves.
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Bangor West|
|V9||★★ Arête Problem
A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack.
FA: joe, 2000
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Bangor Blocs Blocs|
|V10||★★ Massive Attack
Start 2m R of WW. Start in chosscave, huge move to sandy ugly hold and up.
FFA: Cam Taylor
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Closed Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) Bonnet Bay Cave|
|V10|| ★★★ The Cling Thing
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Jannali Reserve|
|V10||★★ Wish You Were Joe
Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10"
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Villas Closed The Villas Cave|
|V10 R|| Shoosh
Start 'Savage', finish 'Paul's Present', no back wall.
FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007
|V10 R|| ★★★ Paul's Present
A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.
FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2000
|V10 R|| ★★ Entry Point
Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft?
FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2013
|V10 R|| ★★★ Exit Wounds
2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Closed Prices Cave|
|V10|| ★★★ Magnum
3m right of the crack, crawl into the back of the black dark cave...no go even further in again...go on, all the way.
FA: Paul Westwood, 2000
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Dead Chinaman's Wall|
|V9||★★ Super Me
Pull on to the crimp and then jump.
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland The Wing Cave|
|V9||★★ Puppy Love
Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.
|V10||Two Mats and a Sqeaky Dog
Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.
FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Sep 2012
|V9||★★★ Lock Tight
From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.
"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon
FA: Jon Fullwood, 2003
|V9||Watch Your Sack Crack
Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.
|Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Cape Solander Kurnell|
|V8/9||★★ The Little Mermaid
About 100m further south on a steep boulder near the water. Start matched on the bucket jug, set up and go!
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline The Far Side|
A real wrestle. Starting on the obvious jug at the end of the rail, reverse Hollow mountain dreaming and finish up 7th Day Ascentist.
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Left Hand Side|
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline The Eastern Bloc|
Out sharp pockets in the roof to desperate mantle staying left of Violent Crumble. Watch out for exploding holds …
FA: Matt Wilder/Saxon Johns
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall|
|V10 R||★ Woolly Jumper
Paste your feet on and dyno to slot then up through scoop.
FA: Tim O'Neill
F4 via the sharp crimp statically.
|V10 R||★★ American Siege
Tough move up to sidepull, then to mono and'better' holds, then up slab.
FA: Matt Wilder
Sit start into 'Paratroopin'.
FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007
Start as for Paratroopin and keep traversing right into Pockets of the highlander.
FA: Hugo Hornshaw, 2 Aug
|V9||★ Pockets of the highlander
Start from Pockets Of Resitance and traverse right to finish up Highlander
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre|
|V9 R||★★ El Kooko
Start low 'matched' on the flake down below the roof. Gain the juggy ledge and lunge to starting pockets of Ascension Day, finishing up and left as for Ascension Day. Knock it down a grade if you exit via jugs.
FA: Paul Westwood
|V9||★ Bea Fia
Start = as for ElKooko Traverse right staying (Very) low and finish up Snake Bite.
FA: Diego DeDiana, 2010
|V9||★★ Low Down Boogie (Original)
Boogie Knights starting as for El Kooko, topping as per ascension day.
Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into Boogie Knights original finish. Knock a grade off for the variant finish.
|V9||Captain Courageous Left
Start Sloper-Dan and climb to jugs just left of tree, up to crimps & dead point to slopey rail to finish out left. Probably a grade easier if you move a bit left into undercling & climb as for Shell Shocked.
FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015
|V9||Captain Courageous Right
Start as for Chest Rockwell & finish with Captain Courageous.
FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015
|V10||★★ The War Gherkin
Start up Diplomatic Immunity and traverse right through slopey break to finish up The Invisible Gerka, some where between hard V8 and V9/10
FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2017
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Area Q|
|V10||★★ Rocket Man Left
As for Rocket Man but right hand big move and top out left.
|V10||★★★ Rocket Man
L'Homme Obu standing start from the big break on If the Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up 'Rocket Pants'.
FA: Fred Nicole
|V9||★★ Low Rider
Sit start for super reach/dyno around bulge and finish up If the glove fits.
FA: James Alexander
|V9||If The Thong Fits
Same starting hold as Q7 (the jug only) but left to sharp triangular crimp and right to rounded crimp then lunge out right to finish up Q15.
FA: Rob Saunders
Start as of 'Killer arms' (v8) and finish up as for 'Pneuma' (v9).
FA: John Bignold, 30 May 2020
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Lip|
|V9||★★ All The Tables Are Reversed In My Private Universe
Classic Compression Problem with a tough top out. Start at the obvious jug at the left end of the cave. Using what ever holds needed (they are obvious) to gain the lip and then mantle up and over.
FA: Patrick John Reynolds, Jul 2011
|V10||★★ All The Tablets Are Rehearsed||3m|
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Mustard Cave|
|V9||★★ Little Things
FA: Alan Crouch, 2017
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Trenches In The Trenches|
|V9||★★★ arete project
FA: neil / matt kelly ? & neil / matt kelly ?
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Trenches The Mess Kitchen|
|V9||★★★ Bianca's Boobies
Start directly under the prow on pockets then straight up for a desperate top out.
FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000
|Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Trenches The Caves|
|V10||★★★ Mr Winston
Sit start on the tufa feature, powerful moves through roof finishing up the series of blunt pinches and edges in the centre of the headwall. Resist climbing out to better holds on the left. Named after James' cat.
FA: James Scarborough, 2002
|V10||★★ Arcane Power Variant||4m|
|V10||Siotaro Wish Flower
Starting on the right end of the rail, a large move to a pocket and gymnastic moves join the start of Y2k Cont, moving back to finish up Mr Winston.
The first ascent started with feet out right as more of an independent start but has been repeated by starting at the far left rail and feet on starting jugs of Bring It On at V9
FA: Patrick Reynolds, 7 May 2019