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Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,921 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
19 Copper Top

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

FA: Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2005

Sport 22m, 5
20 Yellow Brick Road

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

FA: Lee Cujes, Stephen Parker & Erik Smits, 2000

Sport 25m, 5
19 Ginger and Treacle

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

FA: Lee Cujes & Gareth Llewellin, 1999

Sport 23m, 5
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
19 Sceptre

A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance.

Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).

  1. 50m (19) From dish head towards orange overhang and a step to the R on to slab heading for short, prominent corner past two BR\'s to CB.

  2. 45m (18) Head up corner following BR's to top CB.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 95m, 2
19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre

Start: Directly up from broken stump.

  1. 25m (19) Up R side of overhang to tree root and then up past three BR's to CB. A fall on the crux could serve you up on the slab - take care.

  2. 45m (19) Continue up through two headwalls passing 15 hangers along the way. Remeber your long draws and/or use two ropes.

Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008

FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderlieth (p1), Ross Ernst & Colin Carstens (p2)

Mixed trad 25m, 2, 18
19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre (p2)
Sport 45m, 15
19 Slip

One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before.

FA: Ken Cox

Sport 23m, 6
19 Fantastic

Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux.

Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence

  1. 20m (15) Follow bolts through corner/weakness (one bolt plate required) approximately 1.5 metres up and 5 metres right of Slip\'s anchor, up slab and corner for a short distance to anchor with huge mild-steel chain hardware.

  2. 25m (19) Up shallow corner to obvious steep corner (many FH's). Overcome this and the tricky arête crux move onto slab to reach CB at small tree.

  3. 15m (17) Clip FH from ledge and climb the slab above past numerous FH's to tree belay.

FA: Est. by Pete Schmidt. FFA Darrin Carter & Sean Smith

FA: Darrin Carter/Sean Smith

Sport 75m, 3
20 Imaginary Invalid

Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & M. Byrom

Trad 45m
19 I'll Be Bach

A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge.

FA: Ingo the Dingo

Sport 35m
20 Unknown 5

Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR.

FA: Unknown

Sport 35m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
20 Outfox

2m R. Just R of the overhung barrel. This route wanders up the slab, trending R before picking through a steeper section searching for good holds. About 9 FH’s to anchors. Very chossy.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 20 Jul 2013

Sport 25m, 10
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
20 Plinian Eruption

Careful on loose but easy corner for 10m. Then interesting moves with hidden holds on good rock. 9 FHs to shared anchor with Pyroclastic. Good, but a bit runout and ledgy, take care.

FFA: Erik Smits, 11 Jan 2014

Sport 25m, 9
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall)
19 Cloud Catcher

Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.

  1. 30m (18) Phil Box (rope solo) At first pitch rap anchor of escension step right behind bushes and into a fist size crack. Up easily behind the spear lilly to be confronted with the first steep slab of the new route. Clip piton and traverse right along a good ledge to the weakness on right hand end of ledge. Directly up the weakness and onto low angle slab. Up slab to steep wall. Look for water runnels for protection up high. Follow these to corner and double bolt belay.

  2. 35m (19) Phil Box, Brad Carmady, Josh Combes. From belay, traverse right for aprox. 3 metres and up obvious weakness. Step onto low angle slab and then step back left to directly over belay. Up Arete with poor gear to protect crux to gain a very good piece of protection. From here go directly up until one is in line with an obvious large ledge and spear lilly. Traverse about 6 metres right past the spear lilly to Fixe Ring Chain Belay on the wall at this ledge.

  3. 30m (17) Brad Carmady Josh Combes, Phil Box. Traverse 4 metres right, then up and awkwardly step right onto slab. Up slab towards roof then traverse left under overlap to natural belay in obvious crack in right facing corner.

  4. 40m (16) Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step up overlap then traverse left along spear lily ledge before heading up slabs left of large hanging block. Up wide layback then up to steep overlap before going slightly right on slabs to large spear lily ledge. Tree belay on right hand side. This could be a great bivy ledge if benightment a possibility.

  5. 30m (16) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. Straight up from tree belay using the large crack formed by a tremendous gendarme. At top of gendarme trend right across steep slab (orange Alien size pro protects these moves) to corner and crack system. Trend back left on crack system, up behind spikey bush and into short chimney and on up the obvious crack system. Belay before obvious crack peters out.

  6. 50m (16)Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step right and up through groove. Back left following line of weakness through slabs to under large blocks. Head straight up on stepped slabs to just under line of spear lillys. Either traverse left and up or straight through overhangs to poor spear lilly belay.

  7. (3) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. 40 metres of spear lilly swimming to gain walk down ridge. Walk down to the right keeping the top of cliffline visible more or less. Encounter the obvious saddle and turn right to walk down obvious descent gully back to camp.

FA: Phil Box, Brad Carmady & Josh Combes, 2006

Trad 250m
Northern Rivers Old Lismore Quarry
{US} AU:19 Ohm
Unknown 12m
19 LT Direct
Unknown 12m
Northern Rivers Angel Way Dragons Lair
20 the Art of Meditation

FFA: Za Utopia, 3 Jun 2014

Sport
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock
19 epic deception

dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side...

FFA: john, 2000

Mixed trad 150m, 4, 12
19 peace tower

like climbing a 12m fridge, fun

Sport 12m, 4
Northern Rivers Boonoo Boonoo Falls
V1 Asshole in the Middle of your Back

Up the right corner, with fun bridging off a finger sized crack. Deadpoint the jug and top out toward the left.

Start: While facing 'Bunny Nuggets', turn around and walk into the gully to the left. The right most corner before the short slab.

FA: Dan Roe, 2008

Unknown
V1 Bunny Nuggets

Sit start at the base of obvious crack.

FA: Dan Roe?, 2008

Unknown
Northern Rivers Surf Rock
19 moonlight drive

10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out.

Mixed trad 23m, 2
20 Dragon teeth

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

FA: Za Utopia, 20 Mar 2013

Trad 15m
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach
V1 A4

From shield follow twin hourglass cracks to large rails in centre of steep face, up to find pockets ontop.

Boulder
V1 A6

Thrutchy wide corner crack.

Boulder
V1 A12.
Boulder
V1 A13.

Standing start, smear and slap.

Boulder
V1 Behave you bastards

On same boulder as A15. Squat start on horizontal crack. Toe hook to mantle top out.

FA: Jeff G

Boulder 2m
V1 Ya dickhead

Sit start. From crimpy horizontal ledge on overhang to crimpy flake above. Mantle to top out. Adjacent boulder is out.

FA: artie G

Boulder 2m
V1 B2

Middle of face

Boulder
V1 B3

Blunt arete.

Boulder
V1 B6

Avoid small block on right at feet, bad landing.

Boulder
V1 Slabs on toast

Balancie.. moving right wards up the face

FA: Krishna

Boulder 3m
V1 Direct left

Avoiding the cracks on both side and moving straight up from the jug into the thin side pull and to the horizontal break at the top of the wall. Fun

FA: Krishna

Boulder 3m
V1 Egg nostril

On the left face

FA: Gopal Thorburn

Boulder 3m
V1 C2

Will need a good spot!

Boulder
V1 C3

Highball. Layaway large suspect looking hanging block to jugs and a reach to top, then victory pocket.

Boulder
V1 C5

Start on sharp block in corner, up left face with some bridging for feet.

Boulder
V1 C6

Small arete, some loose rock in corner at top.

Boulder
V1 F4
Boulder
V1 G4

From crack up jugs, straight up.

Boulder
V1 J1

Layaway

Boulder
V1 J7

Jam

Boulder
V1 J8
Boulder
V1 J10
Boulder
V1 J20
Boulder
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
20 Convergence

left trending steep wall past 4 RB's

Sport 10m, 4
19 The Dark Knight

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

Sport 12m, 4
20 Solar Flare

Up orange wall and white streak.

Sport 13m, 4
19 Close Encounters

Up left yellow wall.

Sport 8m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog
19 Adder

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Trad 20m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
19 Spanking Monkeys

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

FA: J. Langston, 1997

Trad 10m
20 Thin Red Line

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000

Mixed trad 12m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove
20 John West

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

FA: S Hawkshaw

Sport 12m, 5
19 House of Cards

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 14 Aug 2011

Sport 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
20 Sneaky Snake Flake

One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start.

FA: Brian Cork & Brad Poidevin, 4 Aug 2013

Sport 20m, 5
20 Cosmic Turtle

Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face.

FA: Brian Cork, 4 Aug 2013

Sport 15m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall
19 Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

FA: Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel, 2001

Sport 12m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall
19 Yosemite Action Hero

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

FFA: Arthur Schultz, 2011

Sport 6m, 2
19 Super Grover

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

Sport 18m, 6
19 The Slippery Truth

wall just left of offwidth

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

Sport 15m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Streaked Wall
20 Magic Noodle

Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed)

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 12 Jul 2014

Sport 15m, 4
19 Mickey G's

Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 12 Jul 2014

Sport 15m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Deliverance Area
19 Sanction of the Victim

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

FA: Marc Bailey lead Jen Marshall 2nd, 2011

Mixed trad 32m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House
20 Labradoodle

Climbs the Slabby flake on left side of the wall. fun moves and rock

Sport 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354
20 Invasion Streak

Straight up the obvious white streak

Unknown 15m
19 Revisionist History

Start as for Criminal but traverse right to ledge then wander up face and arete to anchors

Unknown 18m
20 Serial

Start as for Sinisterhood then left and up middle of the face

Sport 15m, 7
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Hide and Seek Wall
19 Tinker Bells Big Brother

Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.

FFA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 23 Feb 2012

FA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 23 Feb 2012

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Lost Boys Hideout Wall
20 Battle of Evermore

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt & Peter Higgs, 2005

Mixed trad 70m, 6
20 Boulder S

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

FA: Marc Bailey & Bruce Jones

Trad 25m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall
19 Hydra

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2002

FFA: 2002

Mixed trad 30m, 3
19 Hydra's Head

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

FA: Joe Truban & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 17m
20 The Phantom

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2005

Sport 25m, 8
20 Captain America

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Mixed trad 25m, 4
19 Tinker Bell Direct

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

FA: Peter Higgs

Trad 25m
19 Angelina Jollies Jublies

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

FA: Brice Milne & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 25m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour
20 You Can't Touch This

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

FA: W. Anderson & G. Dean, 1990

Sport 8m, 2
19 Deceiving Decisions

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989

Mixed trad 8m, 3
20 Cosmic Energy

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989

Sport 8m, 2
19 Phantom Cockroaches

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon & Dave ?, 1989

Mixed trad 8m, 1
19 Ballroom Blitz

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

FA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon & N. Crabb, 1988

Mixed trad 8m, 1
19 Planet Earth

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 8m, 2
20 Black Beard

FA: unknown

Sport 8m
20 Obscure Route

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 8m, 1
20 Rags To Riches

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1990

Sport 8m, 3
20 Light And Easy

Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Just great!

FA: G. Dean, P. Thompson, T. Loughlin & T. Thompson, 1989

Sport 8m, 4
19 Steamy Windows

This route and the next half dozen are located around the "Shower Recess" (an obvious, square alcove).

5m left of the "Shower Recess". Tricky off the ground. Up through bulge past a bolt to an overhanging wall finish. 3 bolts and a 2 bolt belay.

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1990

Sport 8m, 3
20 Intreeg

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990

Mixed trad 10m, 2
20 Bubble And Squeak

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1990

Mixed trad 8m, 2
19 Wedding Cake Island

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990

Sport 8m, 2
19 I Don't Mind

Named in honor of the great Bob Geldoff. The wall/arete on the far side of the Gazebo that steepens near the top. Avoid the heat of the afternoon. Great.

FA: A. Stephens & G Dean, 1990

Unknown 8m, 2
19 delete

.

Sport 2
19 delete
Sport 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress
19 Exit Right Pursued By Bear

Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed trad 8m, 1
19 Denali And Sequoia

5m right of ‘Sherriff’. Crack climb. Tree belay

FA: Marty Scmidt

Trad 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder
V1 The Scarlet Manuka

SDS. Up central, juggy arete.

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder
V1 Blowgirl

SDS, a bit hard but too short to be worth it.

Boulder 2m
V1 Slabblown

Back side of the boulder, couple of techy slab moves.

Boulder 2m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Low Boy Boulder
V1 Low Blow

SDS just right of corner. Up to jugs and mantle

Boulder 2m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,921 routes.

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