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Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,622 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
22 Abandonment Issues VS

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewelyn & Ben Carter, 2006

Sport 7m, 2
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
22 Unknown
  1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

  2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

FA: Probably Pete Schmidt, 1996

Sport 60m, 2
22 Fuck Off Noddy

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison

Sport 12m
23 The Liverpool Kiss

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth, 1994

Sport 20m
22 You Eeediot

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

FA: Merk Plenderlieth, 1996

Sport 20m
22 Penile Warts

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 22m
23 Romancing the Slabs

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 22m
22 Flakes Away

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 45m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
23 Sherlock Hemlock

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 17m, 7
22 Expialidocious

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

FFA: Erik Smits & Glenn Ferguson, 27 Jul 2013

Sport 17m, 7
23 Extra Shot

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

FFA: Tom Reid, 27 Jul 2013

Sport 18m, 9
22 X-Men Weekend

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

FFA: Monty Curtis, 20 Jul 2013

Sport 12m, 6
23 Botox Betty

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 3 Aug 2013

Sport 12m, 6
22 Bollox

Starts on the ledge. Walk 10m R of previous route (around rocks) and scramble up a chute onto the ledge. Start up short black corner then climbs blocky orange and grey rock.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 21 Jul 2013

Sport 17m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Crossroads
23 Lorch

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

FFA: Duncan Steel, Aug 2014

Sport 18m
22 Cthulhu p1

For those who stop halfway. Cthulhu will eat your children.

FFA: Tom Reid, 20 Jul 2014

Sport 20m
23 (Orthrus p1)

Half height.

Set by Nathan McNeil, 5 Jul 2014

SportProject 20m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
22 Joe Versus The Volcano

R-leaning crackline and arete. Some tricky moments passing the first bolt.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 13 Apr 2014

Sport 20m
23 Lava Lamp

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

FFA: John O'Brien, 8 Feb 2014

Sport 27m
23 Liquid Hot Magma

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

FFA: Lee Cujes & Duncan Steel, 1 Feb 2014

Sport 17m
23 Blowing Smoke

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 8 Feb 2014

Trad 25m
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall)
23 The Lost Boys

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.

Warning.

Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

Set by Tim Balla

FA: Tim Balla & Malcolm (HB) Matheson

Aid 590m
22 A Pod o Lips Now

Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.

  1. 22 40m (direct) - Up chimney following crack system past a bolt and piton. Trad belay.

    Alternate: 15 45m (off to the right) - Up chimney then cut to the right to a small ledge, then veer back left to the crack system passing a spearlilly along the way. trad belay.

  2. 15 40m - Continue following crack system to double rap station.

  3. 18 55m - Continue following crack system past more spear lillies and a small overlap that is easier than it looks. Belay off spear lillies and a small tree.

  4. 16 55m - Continue following crack system through exposed section with good gear. Continue past more spear lillies.

  5. 5 30m - Scramble through increasing vegetation to top.

FFA: Phil Box & Colin Carstens., 2008

Trad 220m
Northern Rivers Angel Way Dragons Lair
22 Angel Fly
Sport
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock
23 thoughts of future
Sport 25m, 6
22 dreamer

start just left of tree

Sport 20m, 5
22 eternity

awesome

Sport 20m, 5
23 timeless

tricky, balancy

Sport 20m, 5
Northern Rivers Surf Rock
22 arete burning

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

FA: 30 Dec 2012

Top rope 13m
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach
V3 A14
Boulder
V3 A15

Can only be done when sand level is super low.

Boulder
V3 B1

Right hand side pull to left hand pinch on small sharp arete, stay on arete to top.

Boulder
V3 B4

Eliminate dyno from jug to break.

Boulder
V3 C4

Gaston up middle of face to jugs.

Boulder
V3 C8

Awkward start on jugs on right side, thin to pocket in middle of block at top.

Boulder
V3 E3

Good arete with a reach.

Boulder
V3 E5

Contrived low start, avoid leaning block with toe hook.

Boulder
V3 F1

Start sitting over hole, don't fall down it!

Boulder
V3 G2

Follow holds on left side of block using smaller blocks for feet at start.

Boulder
V3 G5

From break slap right arete to pockets on face.

Boulder
V3 G6

Low jug at back right to jug on lip with feet under roof, mantel.

Boulder
V3 H6
Boulder
V3 J11

Get down low and go.

Boulder
V3 J14

From pockets straight up.

Boulder
V3 J15

From pockets up and then join J13.

Boulder
V3 J18

Side pull to pocket and crimps, often dirty at top!

Boulder
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
23 The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998

Trad
23 Project

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

Sport 15m, 5
22 Paranormal

up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet

Sport 13m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog
23 Sting

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
22 Dicky Seat

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

Sport 7m, 2
23 White Lane

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

FA: Nic Wagland & David Wagland, 2009

Sport 7m, 2
23 Shane Of The Jungle

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 8m
22 Missing Monkeys

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

FA: Gordon Low, 1996

Sport 15m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove
23 Tim's Vital Life Juice

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 bolts to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 15m, 4
23 Elders Have Wisdom

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

FA: M. Schmidt, 1997

Sport 16m, 5
22 The Malloy

A tribute. Great moves all the way up the wall. Tops out to anchors just above lip for full value! REBOLTED FEB 14

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

Sport 15m, 5
23 Wet Patch

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

FA: R Ferguson & G Ferguson

Sport 15m, 6
23 Wisdom Of Youth VS

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

FA: Gareth Lewellin & Aaron Jones

Sport 15m, 5
23 Wisdom Of Youth

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 20m, 5
23 Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 15m, 7
23 Groovin the Move

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

FA: S Hawkshaw, Jun 2012

Sport 10m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
23 Will of the Word

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Sport 15m, 5
22 Pimp My Vagrant Ride

Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves.

FA: L Gray, Jun 2012

Sport 15m, 5
22 Andy Goodvibes

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

Sport 18m, 7
22 Adventures In Retro Land

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 20m, 4
22 Fashion Nugget

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall
22 Beached Az

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

Sport 18m, 6
22 The Pretender

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

Sport 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Sound Garden Cave
22 Down on the Upside

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

FFA: Arthur Schultz, 16 Dec 2011

FA: Arthur Schultz, 16 Dec 2011

Sport 15m, 5
23 Talking Marmots

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 12 May 2012

Sport 12m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Streaked Wall
23 White Rabbit

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Oct 2014

Sport 15m, 5
22 King Brown

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Oct 2014

Sport 15m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Thunderbolt Cave
23 Thunder Vision

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 6 Dec 2014

Sport 10m, 5
23 The Space Race

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 14 Dec 2014

Sport 15m, 6
22 Red Dwarf

On right side of wall and climbs steep overhung arete.

FA: Alan Ezzy & Stephen Hawkshaw, 6 Dec 2014

Sport 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House
23 Hair of the Dog

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

Sport 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354
23 Letterkenny

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Sport 17m
22 Gastro Pod

straight up face to finish through rooflet

Unknown 12m
23 Enormocast

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Unknown 15m
23 Reply All

Climb the steep corner and feature.

Unknown 16m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Lost Boys Hideout Wall
22 Acts Of Sublimation

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2005

Mixed trad 27m, 5
22 The Antichrist

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

FA: Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Mixed trad 30m, 7
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall
23 Sky's The Limit

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2004

Mixed trad 47m, 12
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never New Wall
23 Robot Zombie Pigs

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face. Awesome.

FA: Alan Ezzy, Dec 2012

Sport 13m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour
22 Rum And Coke

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989

Sport 8m, 2
23 Silver And Gold

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

FA: A. Stephens, 1989

Sport 8m, 2
22 Short And Sweet

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989

Mixed trad 8m, 2
23 Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990

Sport 8m, 2
22 Summer

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1990

Sport 8m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress
23 Parting Gesture

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

FA: Danny Rose & Bruce Jones

Mixed trad 8m, 2
23 Sherrif

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed trad 8m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Low Boy Boulder
V3 Low Boy

SDS Short flake

Boulder 2m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall
V3 Strudel

Crimpy face 5 m right of arete, just left of Jam and Scream

FA: Ben Whittaker & Artie Schultz

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Smoulder Boulders
V3 Donkey

Face above roof. Painful.

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Northern Rooves
V3 Rasta

Roof to slopey top out. Awesome.

FFA: Luke Cornish & Artie Schultz

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Skip's Highball
V3 Rhys's Highball

Start on right hand block, through the right side of the overhang and up the wall

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel & Artie Schultz

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Graniteish Bloc
V3 Have a Blow Boys

Stand start on sidepulls, too slopey hold in the middle of the wall, huck for the top

FFA: Artie Schultz

Boulder 3m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall
23 Subliminal Erotica

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

Mixed trad 8m, 2
22 Mind Warp

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1991

Sport 15m, 4

Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,622 routes.

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