Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 | ★★ Split Wave
Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof. Very popular. FA: D. Noble, 1990 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Lardy Lady's Lats
Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees. FA: Martin Pircher, 1997 | 25m, 13 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ These People are Sandwiches
The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down its left side. This is it. High first bolt over the rooflet, then sustained climbing up the gently overhung orange wall. Popular. FA: C. Martin & A. Penney, 1985 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus
One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. [If the headwall of this route is wet, an equally good but dry 23 is “Lyptus Power”: Lyptus to the crux then easily R across Grape Hour (which will also be wet up high), to join Grey Power]. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 23m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Hot Flyer
Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below). FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Room With a View
The best warm up here. FA: C.Hale, 1996 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Nylon Happy
Rebolted 2004. '23' in the 2015 Blue Mountains Guidebook. Rest assured that it is indeed 22. The crack/seam in the middle of the wall. Be careful of some hollow rock. FA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey & M. Radke, 1988 | 20m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Hairy Horrace
This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall. Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. FA: J.Smoothy, 1988 | 12m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Legoland
Same start as previous but follow bolts trending out right. A couple of longer slings / extended draws will be handy to reduce drag on first few bolts. (especially bolt 3) A thin move to get established on the slab leads to a long sequence of interesting climbing interspersed with rests. The final section may be baffling, but can be done a few different ways. FA: Chris Coghill | 25m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Killer Boas
A nice route - but why everyone thinks it is worth 3 stars we will never know. Start: Start to the right of the blunt arete on the right hand side of the wall where there is a big chimmney. FA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barton, 1991 | 10m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★★ Seamstress
The first climb on the Sunnyside and one of the best. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning, shallow corner. FA: Martin Pircher, 2010 | 22m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Los Hermanos de la Denitente
The Crag Classic !! Solid and sustained wall climbing on good holds. Stand up on tree stump, and power all the way thru to roof. Shake out here and show off with a french blow - punch the roof and into the cave, then move up right wards to clip the anchors. FA: Garth Miller, 1992 | 10m, 4 | Mount Alexandra | ||
23 | ★★★ Still Life
Classic 'Nowra' arete - which is hard and pumpy. Start: Start at the obvious arete to the right of 'TP'. Some people do an easier start on the face a few metres left of the arete proper. FA: Giles Bradbury & Ant Prehn, 1990 | 10m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ Hang onto Yourself
The arête. You can start direct or traverse in from GL. Take care clipping third ring. FA: R.Young, 1998 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Ruddy Norry
Now re-bolted with ring bolts. It's a good warm up, and more so if you continue up the last few metres of Whodunnthat (still 22). Start as for Ratcat then trend right crossing the flake feature. A medium cam in a break below the first bolt (or long stick clip) helps alleviate leg breakages. FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1988 | 14m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Weak as I am
USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall - sustained but no definite crux (unlike many routes on this wall). Start about 15m R of AAO at the next log. This is the left line of the three. FA: S.Grkovic, 1999 | 22m, 13 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Nev Herrod
Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall. Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof. FA: S.Butler & M.Law, 1988 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★★ Renovators Dream
Very good climbing, which makes you appreciate how average 'Killer Boas' really is. Superb friction. FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 20m, 8 | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ SWALK
Another crowd favorite up big pumpy jugs. Best to stickclip 2nd bolt if you value your leg bones. FA: M.Law, 1992 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Daffy
Keeps going above the ledge up the little headwall. Good sustained climbing and steeper than it looks. FA: Ben Lane, 2012 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Murdoch the Horse Fucker
Hard and pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic Nowra. FA: Steve Barry, 1992 | 12m, 5 | Nowra | ||
23 | ★★ Pulling On the Porcelain
FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 12m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ Lady Grinning Soul
Starts around the arete from HOY. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arête, eventually trending left to the arête and finishing up HOY. Stickclip the first bolt if needed. Rebolted 2005. FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982 | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer
Good fun with a short section of thinness up high. Reach helps. Rebolted 2017. FA: M. Pircher, 1996 | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Electro Rooter
Rebolted 08-07-2006. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990 | 12m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ Jug Buzz
Start: Starts off the pedestal 6m up L from the base of Zapt. You can belay on the ledge (where there's a belay ring), or on the ground which is probably less hassle. Either way, take it easy on the unprotected scramble up to the pedestal. FA: V.Peterson, 2002 | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ A Streaker Named Desire
Excellent sustained crimping. As for Language, heading right at third bolt. FA: V.Petersen, 2002 | 25m, 13 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Barbra Streisand
Start just left of Pluck-a-Duck. Bouldery start then wanders right and left. Finishes on the white bulge after the first roof. Varied and pumpy! FA: Wade Stewart & Leah Zerbes, 12 Sep 2015 Set: Wade Stewart, 12 Sep 2015 | 15m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Crime Is Art
FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992 | 10m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ The Go Between
The face in the middle of the pillar, starting up Marooned before moving left. FA: J.Smoothy, 1987 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Spread 'em Baby
Funky, cryptic stemming up the obvious open book corner. FA: V.Petersen, 2000 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Reigning Steel
Shorter and less sustained than other routes on this section of wall. Step left off block and up face between Sadomastication and Microdermabrasia to premature low anchors. The bolted extension to the ledge is grade 25. FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2012 | 17m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Amazon Queens In the Avocado Jungles Of Death
Very popular. It is a bit easier (22) if you retreat to the flake on the right at the crux. But, this seems like most obvious thing to do, and going direct seems a little contrived. If you want to rip the dodgy flake off then don't go direct otherwise grit your teeth and go direct for a safer experience. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989 | 20m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ La Niña
Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 25m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Dictator in a Deerstalker
Start on top of boulder as for War and Peace then go straight up. Bouldery moves on steep rock. FA: Niall Doherty, 2009 | 9m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Off the Lip
FA: S. Richardson & F. Yule, 1992 | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Shut the Gate
Climb left leaning flake/ramp, then head toward obvious arete. Finishes at anchors just left from the top of the arete. FA: C.Hale, 1997 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★★ Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant
| 20m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★★ Hotel California
1
22
45m
2
20
30m
3
17
40m
4
10
35m
5
17
30m
6
19
50m
7
20
30m
8
18
25m
9
20m
10
16
20m
10 pitch sport route (all rings or homemade stainless hangers, which some odd-ball fat nosed biners struggle with, but take bolt plates for the carrots instead incase, and for the anchor above pitch 3, and in case the belays get too crowded). Rap in as described above, then walk right past pinnacle at 40 m, hit base of cliff at 100m, drop down, then go up to cliff (near start of Big Nose). Walk round the base of buttress and drop down a bit, then go up and you can see a 8m pinnacle/flake leaning against the steep face. This is the start. About 350m walk. There is a much easier variant to the first 3 pitches by starting up Contented Cows, all rings at 17, 8 (12m), and 19. There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 5, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.
To exit, see notes above. FA: Mikl Law & Ness Peterson Shaz Clarke, 2001 | 330m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Creep Show
Excellent pumpy climbing up the wall, through the roof, and on to the slab above. FA: F.Yule, 1995 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★ Meaty Mesmo
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 10m | Nowra | ||
23 | ★★★ Sensory Overload
Start at the left end of the wall and smile all the way. Both juggy and pumpy. FA: lloyd wishart, 10 Feb 2018 | 20m, 12 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ War Babies
Popular and sequency. Start off right end of the boulder. FA: J.Smoothy, 1985 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Master Plan
The glorious arete. Starts 1m right of the huge 'MP' marking. FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ The Never Believers
Bouldery start to monkey juggery. FA: C.Hale, 1996 | 15m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★ Vasco Pyjama
Far left end of the steep wall, just right of wide crack. Was originally graded 18 but a hold has broken so it's now crimpy desperation at 22. Rebolted 2019. FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy, 1993 | 12m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Uncertainty Pleasure
Start of the left hand end of the cave. Carrot to belay from. Climb finishes at first DRB. The second set of anchors is for the other routes. FA: Vera Wong, 1993 | 8m, 5 | Nowra | ||
23 | ★ Acceptably Cosmic
The first climb on the cliff. This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done! FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law FA: M.Stacey, J.Smoothy & M.Law, 1988 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Mental Mantle
Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley. FA: M.Pircher, 2000 | 27m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Euchre
FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 22m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Extension Lead
Burly start then cruisy FA: M. Law | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Black Beddy
Clip first bolt on 'Betty Blue' and head left. Crank up on the crimpers to the final throw making sure to take a few whips for the camera along the way! Start: Start at 'Betty Blue' FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 8m | Nowra | ||
23 | ★★ Cutopia
Crimpy Slab FA: M.Law, 2000 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Cryogenics
A long crux sequence up high makes this a stiff classic. FA: M.Portman, 1992 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Alien Signature
RB's up overhanging juggy wall and through the roof FA: J.Kurko, 1996 | 19m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Sister Rosa
Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up. FA: T Bretherton & G Bradbury, 2000 | 18m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Caveman
A real adventure, one of the best 23's in Sydney. Starts up undercling, traverse left up into the cave, then up left of cave to anchors.Back jump to fixed biners to clean. FA: Lucas C, 2016 | 22m, 10 | Elanora Heights | ||
V3 | ★★ Violent Crumble
Just down the hill below the main boulder of The Eastern Bloc. Start at the back of the cave, head out following the biggest jugs you can find to a mantle. Careful of the cracked footer on the left. Start: Sit. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
22 | ★★ Freak Magnet
Very thin start then consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!! FA: Rod Young, 1994 | 20m, 9 | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ Hercules
Start: 10m left of 'The Cathedral' Cave, up easy corner and step right into thin line. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off. FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 15m | The Cathedral | ||
23 | ★★★ Ruthless Babe
Mega. Start 2m L of Bitchin FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 12m, 5 | Bluebell | ||
V3 R | ★★ Mission Impossible
Up the crack finishing left. Quite a sting in its tail unless you're tall. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★★ You Crazy Diamond
The classic warm-up of Diamond Falls. Good moves and a long sustained pitch that keeps you thinking all the way to the anchors. Start 12m right of Uncooth Youth, marked by a 23 etched into the rock. Rebolted 2019. FA: C. Hale & M. Wilson, 1995 | 26m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Blow
Popular, with a hard start that is either dynoed out right, or tackled via small holds on the left. Second half finishes up a short section of attractive rock on good holds. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 10m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Sexy Mexi
Up Girly Germs to the second bolt and go right. Committing finish. FA: J.Smoothy & M.Baker, 1985 | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
V3 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams
Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
23 | ★★ Searching for the Light
This line provides a popular jug haul through scoops and now has a completely new finish... Now instead to going back right continue straight up to a new high anchor.. May be nicer the just break right to the higher of the 24's anchors. Its all a little confusing up there at the moment.. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012 | 24m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Scott's Edge
Nice sequence to start then easy climbing for the rest. Start: little sequence that makes the climb | 15m, 4 | Berowra | ||
V3 | ★★ Underground Movement
Start on crimps, then go left to the good pocket and up to the top. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★★ Diagonal du Fou
A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, follow the line of bolts that leads you up and left. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH. FA: Garth Miller, 1992 | 15m, 10 | Mount Alexandra | ||
23 | ★★ Flirting With the Spanish Dancer
Rebolted 2004. FA: J.Smoothy, 1995 | 20m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ It Goes!
Use bolt plates for face (and optional gear in crack) then bulge well protected with ring bolts FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Fashion
A bit of a classic. The central flake feature up the guts of the wall. Guess where the crux is? (hint - the bolts show the way). The sport route ends at a nice lower-off - but the original line actually left from here to a belay and then carried on to the top with very minimal gear! FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983 | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Scones of Doom
Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs. FA: Mikl Law | 15m, 4 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★★★ On Edge
Stunning technical arete 2m left of GW. Bolts are spaced and can be supplemented with cams (#2 & #3 Camalot). FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1977 | 28m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Three Hour Commute
Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 17m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Thai Virus
Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts. FFA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 25m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★★ Trixie’s Ton
Big reaches to big holds. Funky pockets. Set: Jason Lammers, 4 Jul 2018 FA: Jason Lammers, 8 Jul 2018 | 18m, 8 | Stanwell Tops | ||
23 | ★★ Major Tom
Bulges 4m right of Careless Memories. Move left at the lip and finish up Careless Memories. FA: M.Pircher, 1999 | 12m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★★ Dodecahedron
The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper! FA: rick phillips | 20m, 7 | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||
23 | ★★ Dragon's Egg
Has been retro-bolted with ring bolts and has a new finish out to the left after rooflet. Start 3m right of Ness is Best, by the tree. FA: M Radke J Cooksey, 1988 | 20m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Elastic Analysis
Short, juggy, fun. FA: J.Clark, 1996 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★ Dead Man Walking
Funky 3D climbing on incredibly slippery rock. Was once grade 21! Rebolted 2019. FA: C.Hale, 1996 | 18m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Tinman
Probably 22 now that the boulder has rolled down the gully. FA: Rod Young, 1991 | 20m | Nowra | ||
22 | ★ Lay la Kay
Right through opening bulge then left trending line up thin face to shared anchors with Aonang Aonang. Rebolted 2019. FA: J Kurko & J Clark, 1995 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Ladder of Death
Stick clip ring bolt, committing dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder. Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom' FA: Barry Jones, Steve Jones, Dave James & Julian Childs, 1994 | 10m, 5 | Berowra | ||
V3 | ★ Tanks a Lot
Start on 2f pocket and rounded crimp then straight up over the sloping bulge. Rightmost climb before the corner. Stay right of the good crimps out left. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
23 | ★★★ Tilt
One of the best routes in Sydney!Are you ready to get your tilt on? New bolts (1994). Start, up log (as for SSS) then rightwards (put sling through 2nd bolt to avoid leverage on biner) and through roof FA: Michael Law, 1985 | 15m | Narrabeen | ||
23 | ★ Gas, Food, Lodging
Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so undercling the break and dyno away! After the dyno keep chugging straight up past a hidden bolt on a ledge to a chain at the top of the cliff. FA: A. Farquar, 1994 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Roof Stalker
Start 5m R of GMS in cave. Hard start (left of the first bolt) and up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the pumpy headwall. | 16m, 7 | Alfords Point | ||
23 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk
To the right of Atoms in Action. Up the arete. Starts on the left of the arete. Don’t stray too far right for full value. FA: Marty Doolan & Cam O'Leary Set: Cam | 11m | Blue Mountains | ||
22 | ★★ Low
Wall and obvious flake 5m R of gully. High first bolt, like all the routes on this platform. Bouldery at the bulge. FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Imogen
Sustained and way cool. The rounded arete just left of the Cathedral Cave. Do not stem up the wide corner ('Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start', grade 21); climb just left of the first two bolts (grade 23). If you stickclip, then better to clip the second bolt directly as the first one offers little protection. FA: Jason Lammers, 2008 | 15m, 7 | The Cathedral | ||
V3 | ★★ Jugalicious
Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete. FA: Glen Jones | 5m | Queanbeyan area | ||
23 | ★★★ Speed Boat Wankers
Up the poorly protected slab onto fun sidepull features. Bring a bolt plate and a sling for before the roof. Headwall is excellent to a jug above drb anchor. FA: Tony Barton & Andrew Bull, 1991 | 25m | Nowra | ||
23 | ★★ Beef Master
FA: Graeme Hill, 1993 | 8m, 4 | Nowra | ||
22 | ★★ Violent Flemm
FA: Rod Young & Colin Berry, 1995 | 22m | Nowra | ||
23 | ★ Chase the Lady
A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous. Shared mantle start then take the left line of bolts. FA: M.Radtke & J.Smoothy, 1988 | 14m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★ Scheme of Things
Start at SOT mark. FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Wedding Bell Blues
Short but it packs a punch for the length! The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T FA: J.Clark, 1996 | 12m | Blue Mountains |