|Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill|
|26||★★★ Snail Trail
R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.
2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.
FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006
|25||★★ Life Isn't All Ha Ha Hee Hee
2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.
FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006
|Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown|
Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.
FA: Matt Hutton & Greg Hambling, 1995
|Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X|
Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 6 Jul 2013
|25||★★★ Tito Traverxa
15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 6 Jul 2013
|Northern Rivers Urbenville Crossroads|
Typhon was the largest and most fearsome of all creatures. His human upper half reached as high as the stars, and his hands reached east and west. Instead of a human head, a hundred dragon heads erupted from his neck and shoulders. 5m R. Up easy start just left of the platform, then orange wall, and steepness above. The finale through a steep little bulge is a heartbreaker.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 19 Jul 2014
A creature with the body, tail, and back legs of a lion; the head and wings of an eagle; and an eagle's talons as its front feet. 5m R. Up past bolt onto large platform at 5m. Up a balancy slab for 15m to ledge below the steepness. Now comes a series of punchy steep sections interspersed with good rests. The finale, traversing above the sucking void is particularly exciting.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 15 Jun 2014
2m R. Stem off the boulder L past the bolt. Up the smooth tricky slab and then oodles of climbing which eventually runs into the multifaceted overhung corners just left of the big fig tree stump 30m up (steep!). The very top, up a runnel feature is super cool. The route features a number of tricky sections interspersed with good rests. May be on the easy side for 26 but I doubt there’ll be too many complaints.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 25 May 2014
|25||★★ Cthulhu (full version)
A large cephalopod-like creature with a tentacled mouth, large wings, clawed hands and scaly skin. Starting at the tree seat. Climbs the orange rock through a bulge. Standard Crossroads wall climbing through bulges takes you beyond the half height anchor to a sit-down rest. Out of here the line snakes right and left - long slings will reduce drag. The final section pits you against an arete you must cross left to right. A very interesting assortment of moves and several very good rests to keep things sane. Take 23 quickdraws.
FFA: Tom Reid, 20 Jul 2014
A fearsome giant with one body and three heads. He owned Orthrus. Start is just to the right of Cthulhu. Climb up the slab to a roof and pull through a minor crux then solid steep moves to the top.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 26 Jul 2014
The white wall just right of fig tree roots. R-trending line up slab. As it steepens at about the 20m mark, there is a section which deviates 2m L to avoid a loose patch. Then, a tricky roof to negotiate on the orange rock, then steeply through blocky black overhang. Pumpy, with surprising incuts and jugs.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 17 Apr 2014
The monstrous hound Garm guards the entrance to Helheim, the Norse realm of the dead. 2m R. Another R-trending line. Stickclip, because it’s tricky just getting off the ground. Put a 1m sling on second bolt, and step R. Like Monster, you have a roof to pull at half height, but it’s a bit easier.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Jun 2014
Located left of Giant at black slab with low first bolt. Another difficult slab start leads up to the ledge. Grade 22 climbing for most of the way, until things start to steepen with a tricky crux in a clean corner where your arms begin to tire. Keep it together to negotiate the arete to corner-transition finale.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 25 May 2014
Five cruxes! Starts 4m R at black slab with tree against cliff. Tree can be climbed to pre-clip first bolt before starting from ground. Good solid rock the whole way with at least 15 quickdraws and a go-for-it attitude required. 70m rope might work - tie a stopper or use an 80m.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Mar 2014
The god of death and the king of the Fomorians (a race of giants). Scramble up on stacked blocks to reach first bolt on black slab above. Slab to ledge, then through a steeper bit to another ledge and super quality shield of perfect stone. Tricky moves to breach this, then up to a technical mantle to below the upper steepness. Then, up.
FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Jun 2014
A monstrous wolf. Start as for Balor to get on top of the stacked blocks, then wander 5m R to first bolt. Up black slab past four bolts to the gently overhung streaky black wall. Nice sporty moves up this to typical Crossroads mantle out. More varied climbing including a no holds mantle, and then steep jugging with a punchy finale. Good fun!
FFA: Duncan Steel, 6 Jul 2014
|Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius|
|26||★★ Vulcan Mind Meld
The best piece of stone on the wall. Vertical, pure technicality with a brick hard crux traverse. Channel your favourite 80s sport climbing hero, and remember to vulcanize. Ringbolts.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 24 May 2014
High first U-bolt on dark rock (stickclip off block). Fierce moves off the deck give a brief rest before fingerlock crux above bolt four. Continuous, R-leaning climbing past another eight bolts to lower off. Climbed on the famous 41 degree day.
FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 4 Jan 2014
4m R. The big corner with glue-in rings. Large R-leaning open book corner (some shattered rock), then left. Top crux will have you thinking. Crazy pockets up top are worth experiencing.
FFA: Lee Cujes, 11 Jan 2014
|26||★★ Dark Days Ahead
A big, bad beast of a route with an air of serious about it. Nary a straight-down pull on the pitch, it’s all pushing, laybacking, gastons and bridging. Loose in a few spots (robbing it of that elusive third star), but it’s cleaning up, and provides for some amazing climbing. Take about 15 draws. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou
FFA: John O'Brien, 1 Mar 2014
|Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall)|
A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.
Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.
There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.
Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2001
FA: Phil Box, Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon & Will Dameron, 2001
|25||Escension free description
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002
|Northern Rivers Angel Way Dragons Lair|
|Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach|
Tricky arete with bad feet, grade changes depending on sand level.
FA: Sascha Paul, 2019
Start sitting on block, up slapping right arete and thin holds on face to finish up large pocket on left side of face.
Layaway from jam crack to gaston on face, then out left to pocket.
Watch your back! From pocket up and over with bad feet.
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone|
|26||★★ New Moon
Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK
FA: Alan Ezzy, Feb 2013
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room|
Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.
FA: Ben Christian, 1996
Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG
|25||★ Leaking Boy Beno
To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.
FA: Gordon Low, 1998
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove|
|25||★★ White Man's Voodoo
Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18
FA: Ben Christian, 1996
|26||★ Poor Man On Bourbon Street
Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor
FA: Ben Christian, 1997
|26||★ Bourbon Street Direct
Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.
FA: James Scarborough, 1999
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall|
|25||★★ Allypop And The Ice-Man
The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.
FA: Gordon Low, 1997
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode|
This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.
FA: Nick Wagland
|25||★★ Wagland Mantel
Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall|
Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.
FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Sound Garden Cave|
Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors
FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2012
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Thunderbolt Cave|
Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354|
|25||★ S Town
Straight up black face and around the rooflet
Climbs the obvious overhanging arete
The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall|
|25||★★★ Feed The Rat
Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.
Set by Josef Truban
FFA: Alan Ezzy & Leon Gray, 2011
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never New Wall|
|25||★★★ The Specialist (project)
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder|
|V5||★★ The Kremonator
SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken
FFA: Artie Schultz
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland The Change Room|
|25||★★★ White Chump
The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.
FA: G. Low, 1996
|25||★★★ Eat This White Chump
A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.
FA: Ben Christan, 1996
|26||★★ Eat This G-Man
Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.
FFA: B. Christian, 1996
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall|
The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.
FA: B. Christian, 1996
|25||★★ On A Crimp And A Prayer
Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.
FA: B. Christian, 1996
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Canine Wall|
|26||Polly Pussy Arms
The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.
FA: B. Christian, 1996
The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.
FA: G. Low, 1996
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall|
8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.
FFA: Daniel Ryan, Mar 2014
|25||Fast Day In Paradise
10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.
FA: Andreas Audetat
Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.
FA: Andreas Audetat, 1996
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Godzone First Tier|
|25||★★★ Arties Project
Mini Lala Land
|Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Solinari Main Wall|
|26||Sex in Space
2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.
FFA: Rhys Van Gastel
FA: Rhys Van Gastel, 2010
|Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Camp Ground Quarry|
|V5||★ Not waving, Leaving
Sit start out L, quite a hard pull to slopers and slab.
FA: Jul 2019
|Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Walk in Wall|
|V5||★ Traverse to Shadey
Start on the R, and traverse all the way L (keeping low at the end), just past Shady Dayz then straight up past diagonal rail to topout past fronds.
FA: Goshen Watts, Jul 2019
|Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon The Crows Nest|
|V4/5||★★★ 50 Lashes
From large jug on right to cool crimps out left on face, then airy topout. Fill hole in landing with pads... Classic!
|Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon The Point|
|V4/5||★★ Pirates Pick Pockets
FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2008
|Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Grey Area|
|V4/5||★★ Eyes Inside Out|
|Mid North Coast Boomerang The Mollusk Southern Platform|
|25||★★ Pink Eye (On My Leg)
Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.
|Hunter Valley Watagans Secret Area|
|25||★★ The 25
Up the slab at start to climb the orange rock up high with a traverse right below small cave, then up to lower off.
|Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls|
|26||★ Killer Clowns from Outer Space
Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts
FA: George Fieg, David Gray & John Wilde, 1991
|26||★ Killer Clowns (Direct)
An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space
FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1992
Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!
FA: George Fieg, John Wilde & David Gray, 1991
|Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully|
|26||★ Jacob's Ladder
Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High
FA: David Gray & Alison Hall, 1988
|Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag|
|25||★★ Thieving Pommie Bastard
Climb the thin corner left of arete to a cave then finish via 2 bolts and a letter-box slot
FA: John Wilde, David Gray, George Feig & Jim Gilbert, 1988
|25||Progressive Taxation (Direct)
A hard friable overhung start to Progressive Taxation. A difficult bridging start to surmount the overhang leads to a sustained wall, joining Progressive Taxation at it’s crux.
FA: John Wilde & George Fieg, 1990
|Hunter Valley Watagans Ancient Remnants Main Wall|
|25||★★ Spitting Chips
The overhanging wall through bulge, then slab it up to top lower off.
|25||★★ Chips Ahoy
The line of hex bolts up the middle of the main wall. Nice sustained climbing on some nice pockets. Just don't think about the origins of the holds.
|Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf The Giant's Head|
|V5||Picking The Nose
Starting inside the small overhang straight up the face (avoiding the tree).
|Hunter Valley Watagans Black Stump Main Wall|
|25||★★ Takotsubo||12m, 6|
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Iris Moore Park|
|25/26||★★ Wilde Times
Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley main|
|V5||★★ Mr Beasley
Start on the arete to finish on a tough move.
Set by Jason Piper
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Docks Squashed Dog Wall|
|V5||★ Doctor Doctor!
|V5||★★ Pure Bred
Start on the small platform, up the strange sequence avoiding the platform if you fall!!
|V5||The Lost Photo
Crimpy traverse test piece. Often has a wet landing,
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Docks Muma Said Wall|
Sit start under the small roof then up the arete. Often wet at the start.
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Docks Northern Docks|
|V5||Mc Dock With Fries
Up the middle of the slab, to mantle on the crimper, head left to top.
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Surge|
|25||★ Sir Charge
The left hand route. Tough start then some nice thin moves to top, anchor has 2 figure 8's through U bolt..
FA: Jason Piper
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Morna point North Wall|
|25||★★ Rent Free
RIP Trent Lee 3/12/79-20/9/20. . . Trent looked at this line and after several attempts, gifted me (JJ) the line. Trent was a great guy and was always looking to his next adventure as well as being a gear pig. Thank you for the gift Trent, the name came as a thanks to Trent and a rhyming pun. From memory I think I flashed it, so it’s not a benchmark for the grade, enjoy the gift. . . . Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the delicate wall 1.5m past the anchors.
FA: JJ, 2004
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 3, The Rock Pool|
|25||★★ Tsunami Warning
Classic up the middle of the wall directly below anchors. Thin sustained climbing. Easily to diagonal then up through shallow scoops on right, then trend left to pocket.
FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2005
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head Dolphin Walls Upper|
Possibly the only sport route on Dolphin Walls! The wall directly above the abseil station on the halfway ledge, up past 6 fixed hangers.
|25||★★ Crystal Ships
Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!
The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head The Sundeck|
The obvious face with the 2 ring bolts. Nice thin moves lead the way up this classic face. Continue out right under the small roof the cut back across left to top out.
FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1988
|Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head The Back End|
Pitches of 23, 26, 24. P2 crux follows a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to a glued on flake. Final pitch is a hard start with potential to fall onto belay. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.
FA: Dave Gray & John Wilde, 1991
|110m, 3, 26|
|Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Hoppy's Cave|
|26||Vulcan (Project Brian Laursen )
|25||★★ Toasted link
Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!
Set by Jason Piper
FA: Tim Haasnoot
Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.
FA: Ian Geatches, 1997
|26||★★★ Karma Gettin
One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.
FA: JJ, 2004
|25||★ Troglodyte (Pitch 1)
Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.
FA: John Wilde, 2004
|26||★★ Pulling the Troglodytes Plonka
Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.
FA: Jason Piper
|25 M1||Black Leg Miner (Alternate Start)