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Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,045 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
26 Snail Trail

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Sport 25m, 6
25 Life Isn't All Ha Ha Hee Hee

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Sport 22m, 7
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
26 Nightmare

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

FA: Matt Hutton & Greg Hambling, 1995

Sport 22m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
25 Flexion

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 22m, 10
25 Tito Traverxa

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 28m, 13
Northern Rivers Urbenville Crossroads
26 Typhon

Typhon was the largest and most fearsome of all creatures. His human upper half reached as high as the stars, and his hands reached east and west. Instead of a human head, a hundred dragon heads erupted from his neck and shoulders. 5m R. Up easy start just left of the platform, then orange wall, and steepness above. The finale through a steep little bulge is a heartbreaker.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 19 Jul 2014

Sport 35m
25 Gryphon

A creature with the body, tail, and back legs of a lion; the head and wings of an eagle; and an eagle's talons as its front feet. 5m R. Up past bolt onto large platform at 5m. Up a balancy slab for 15m to ledge below the steepness. Now comes a series of punchy steep sections interspersed with good rests. The finale, traversing above the sucking void is particularly exciting.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 15 Jun 2014

Sport 40m
26 Banshee

2m R. Stem off the boulder L past the bolt. Up the smooth tricky slab and then oodles of climbing which eventually runs into the multifaceted overhung corners just left of the big fig tree stump 30m up (steep!). The very top, up a runnel feature is super cool. The route features a number of tricky sections interspersed with good rests. May be on the easy side for 26 but I doubt there’ll be too many complaints.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 25 May 2014

Sport 45m
25 Cthulhu (full version)

A large cephalopod-like creature with a tentacled mouth, large wings, clawed hands and scaly skin. Starting at the tree seat. Climbs the orange rock through a bulge. Standard Crossroads wall climbing through bulges takes you beyond the half height anchor to a sit-down rest. Out of here the line snakes right and left - long slings will reduce drag. The final section pits you against an arete you must cross left to right. A very interesting assortment of moves and several very good rests to keep things sane. Take 23 quickdraws.

FFA: Tom Reid, 20 Jul 2014

Sport 45m, 24
25 Geryon

A fearsome giant with one body and three heads. He owned Orthrus. Start is just to the right of Cthulhu. Climb up the slab to a roof and pull through a minor crux then solid steep moves to the top.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 26 Jul 2014

Sport 40m, 18
26 Monster

The white wall just right of fig tree roots. R-trending line up slab. As it steepens at about the 20m mark, there is a section which deviates 2m L to avoid a loose patch. Then, a tricky roof to negotiate on the orange rock, then steeply through blocky black overhang. Pumpy, with surprising incuts and jugs.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 17 Apr 2014

Sport 40m, 18
26 Garm

The monstrous hound Garm guards the entrance to Helheim, the Norse realm of the dead. 2m R. Another R-trending line. Stickclip, because it’s tricky just getting off the ground. Put a 1m sling on second bolt, and step R. Like Monster, you have a roof to pull at half height, but it’s a bit easier.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Jun 2014

Sport 40m, 18
25 Hulking

Located left of Giant at black slab with low first bolt. Another difficult slab start leads up to the ledge. Grade 22 climbing for most of the way, until things start to steepen with a tricky crux in a clean corner where your arms begin to tire. Keep it together to negotiate the arete to corner-transition finale.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 25 May 2014

Sport 40m
26 Giant

“Five cruxes!” Starts 4m R at black slab with tree against cliff. Tree can be climbed to pre-clip first bolt before starting from ground. Good solid rock the whole way with at least 15 quickdraws and a go-for-it attitude required. 70m rope might work - tie a stopper or use an 80m.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Mar 2014

Sport 38m, 16
25 Balor

The god of death and the king of the Fomorians (a race of giants). Scramble up on stacked blocks to reach first bolt on black slab above. Slab to ledge, then through a steeper bit to another ledge and super quality shield of perfect stone. Tricky moves to breach this, then up to a technical mantle to below the upper steepness. Then, up.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Jun 2014

Sport 35m, 16
25 Fenris

A monstrous wolf. Start as for Balor to get on top of the stacked blocks, then wander 5m R to first bolt. Up black slab past four bolts to the gently overhung streaky black wall. Nice sporty moves up this to typical Crossroads mantle out. More varied climbing including a no holds mantle, and then steep jugging with a punchy finale. Good fun!

FFA: Duncan Steel, 6 Jul 2014

Sport 35m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
26 Vulcan Mind Meld

The best piece of stone on the wall. Vertical, pure technicality with a brick hard crux traverse. Channel your favourite 80s sport climbing hero, and remember to vulcanize. Ringbolts.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 24 May 2014

Sport 20m
25 Pompeii

High first U-bolt on dark rock (stickclip off block). Fierce moves off the deck give a brief rest before fingerlock crux above bolt four. Continuous, R-leaning climbing past another eight bolts to lower off. Climbed on the famous 41 degree day.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 4 Jan 2014

Sport 27m, 14
25 Herculaneum

4m R. The big corner with glue-in rings. Large R-leaning open book corner (some shattered rock), then left. Top crux will have you thinking. Crazy pockets up top are worth experiencing.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 11 Jan 2014

Sport 23m
26 Dark Days Ahead

A big, bad beast of a route with an air of serious about it. Nary a straight-down pull on the pitch, it’s all pushing, laybacking, gastons and bridging. Loose in a few spots (robbing it of that elusive third star), but it’s cleaning up, and provides for some amazing climbing. Take about 15 draws. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

FFA: John O'Brien, 1 Mar 2014

Sport 28m
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall)
25 Escension

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

  1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

  2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

  3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

  4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

  5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

  6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

  7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

  8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

  9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2001

FA: Phil Box, Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon & Will Dameron, 2001

Trad 260m, 9
25 Escension free description
  1. 7 - The approach slabs and traverse to get to the climb proper.

  2. 24 - perhaps, hard mantling layaway using small arete and footer under roof to gain a respite on a decent ledge for a rest before launching up through a series of right leaning overhung handcrack breaks and bulges. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  3. 16 - slab to spear lilly belay, start off from the top of pitch 2 and go left around and underneath the spear lilly belay hanging blocks.

  4. 25 - Start from spear lilly belay, head right up and across slab into the obvious corner, reach out for a fabulous jug on the mantle ledge, swing up onto ledge from whence the hard small traverse left starts, clip bolt and then continue left to establish oneself in obvious crack, up directly to belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  5. 20 - From belay trend left up blocky ramp being careful not to get sucked in too far left, continue up through the first easy system and then back to the right to find 2 widely spaced bolts, equalise these for a killer belay to observe the shenanigans of the roof coming up next.

  6. 23 - Clip the high bolt of the belay before dropping down low and plugging a couple of aliens in out wide along the traverse line on almost non existent feet , drop a bit lower for good feet and then climb up directly under roof bolt. Yeah it`s goey hey, get on out there through that roof, campus up on rugositys to stand on the lip and then swim through the spear lilly to plug wide gear in crack behind lilly, continue up wide dirty crack to bomber anchor. Back this anchor up with a couple of cams as there is the distinct possibility of a climber falling direct on to this anchor due to the next section being so thin and poor gear direct off the belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  7. 24 - Work those aliens and wires in baby and hold on for the ride of your life fortunately this thin seam is not overhung unlike the hand crack which this seam leads to so test that gear bucko, continue up the overhung handcrack to where it blanks out to find yourself at a walrus ledge containing thin fingers and crimpers, belly flop on to that sloper walrus ledge to find yourself with one more block to get over before arriving at a fabulously comfortable belay complete with garden and at least one square foot of space to stand on, it's practically a bivvy ledge. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  8. 17 - Skirt right to skyline then trend left, take care to talk to your belayer as anchors are a direct rope fall/abseil above Pitch 8 anchors. By talking to your belayer you should be able to orient his voice to the line of fall as this slab can suck you in way left.

  9. 16 - We did change out the Fixe hangers and leaver biners to Double rap ring Fixe hangers.

  10. There is a possibility of adding a further pitch to this route to top out.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002

Trad 330m, 9
Northern Rivers Angel Way Dragons Lair
26 Dragons Claw
Sport
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach
V5 A2

Tricky arete with bad feet, grade changes depending on sand level.

Boulder
V5/6 D2

FA: Sascha Paul, 2019

Boulder
V5 F2

Start sitting on block, up slapping right arete and thin holds on face to finish up large pocket on left side of face.

Boulder
V5 J6

Layaway from jam crack to gaston on face, then out left to pocket.

Boulder
V5 J12

Watch your back! From pocket up and over with bad feet.

Boulder
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
26 New Moon

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

FA: Alan Ezzy, Feb 2013

Sport 12m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
25 Homo Gordonis

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 12m
25 Unknown 2

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

Sport 12m, 4
25 Leaking Boy Beno

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

FA: Gordon Low, 1998

Sport 16m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove
25 White Man's Voodoo

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 15m, 4
26 Poor Man On Bourbon Street

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

FA: Ben Christian, 1997

Sport 15m, 6
26 Bourbon Street Direct

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

FA: James Scarborough, 1999

Sport 15m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
25 Allypop And The Ice-Man

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 15m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode
26 Overshadowed

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.

FA: Nick Wagland

Sport 25m
25 Wagland Mantel

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

Sport
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall
25 Synchronicity

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

Trad 12m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Sound Garden Cave
25 Arboretum

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2012

Sport 18m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Thunderbolt Cave
25 Isometrics

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

Sport 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354
25 S Town

Straight up black face and around the rooflet

Unknown 18m
25 Obscura

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Sport 18m, 5
25 Sinisterhood

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Unknown 18m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall
25 Feed The Rat

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Set by Josef Truban

FFA: Alan Ezzy & Leon Gray, 2011

Trad 50m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never New Wall
25 The Specialist (project)
SportProject 15m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder
V5 The Kremonator

SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken

FFA: Artie Schultz

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland The Change Room
25 White Chump

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

FA: G. Low, 1996

Sport 8m
25 Eat This White Chump

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

FA: Ben Christan, 1996

Sport 8m
26 Eat This G-Man

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

FFA: B. Christian, 1996

Sport 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall
25 Tomorrow Boy

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

Sport 10m, 4
25 On A Crimp And A Prayer

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Canine Wall
26 Polly Pussy Arms

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

Sport 15m, 4
25 Glycerine

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

FA: G. Low, 1996

Sport 15m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall
26 Pseudomonas

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

FFA: Daniel Ryan, Mar 2014

Trad 15m
25 Fast Day In Paradise

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

FA: Andreas Audetat

FFA: 1996

Sport 15m, 6
26 The Mission

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

FA: Andreas Audetat, 1996

Sport 15m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Godzone First Tier
25 Arties Project

Mini Lala Land

Sport 12m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Solinari Main Wall
26 Sex in Space

2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel

FA: Rhys Van Gastel, 2010

Sport 15m, 6
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Camp Ground Quarry
V5 Not waving, Leaving

Sit start out L, quite a hard pull to slopers and slab.

FA: Jul 2019

Boulder
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Walk in Wall
V5 Traverse to Shadey

Start on the R, and traverse all the way L (keeping low at the end), just past Shady Dayz then straight up past diagonal rail to topout past fronds.

FA: Goshen Watts, Jul 2019

Boulder
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon The Crows Nest
V4/5 50 Lashes

From large jug on right to cool crimps out left on face, then airy topout. Fill hole in landing with pads... Classic!

Boulder
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon The Point
V4/5 Pirates Pick Pockets

FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2008

Unknown
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Grey Area
V4/5 Eyes Inside Out Boulder
V4/5 Gorilla Gimp

FA: Adrian

Boulder
Mid North Coast Boomerang The Mollusk Southern Platform
25 Pink Eye (On My Leg)

Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.

SportProject 15m
Hunter Valley Watagans Secret Area
25 The 25

Up the slab at start to climb the orange rock up high with a traverse right below small cave, then up to lower off.

Sport 24m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls
26 Killer Clowns from Outer Space

Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts

FA: George Fieg, David Gray & John Wilde, 1991

Mixed trad 16m, 2
26 Killer Clowns (Direct)

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1992

Mixed trad 14m, 3
26 Wayne's World

Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!

FA: George Fieg, John Wilde & David Gray, 1991

Sport 12m, 4
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully
26 Jacob's Ladder

Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High

FA: David Gray & Alison Hall, 1988

Sport 20m, 4
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag
25 Thieving Pommie Bastard

Climb the thin corner left of arete to a cave then finish via 2 bolts and a letter-box slot

FA: John Wilde, David Gray, George Feig & Jim Gilbert, 1988

Mixed trad 10m, 2
25 Progressive Taxation (Direct)

A hard friable overhung start to Progressive Taxation. A difficult bridging start to surmount the overhang leads to a sustained wall, joining Progressive Taxation at it’s crux.

FA: John Wilde & George Fieg, 1990

Sport 14m, 4
Hunter Valley Watagans Ancient Remnants Main Wall
25 Spitting Chips

The overhanging wall through bulge, then slab it up to top lower off.

Sport 22m
25 Chips Ahoy

The line of hex bolts up the middle of the main wall. Nice sustained climbing on some nice pockets. Just don't think about the origins of the holds.

Sport 25m
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf The Giant's Head
V5 Picking The Nose

Starting inside the small overhang straight up the face (avoiding the tree).

UnknownProject
Hunter Valley Watagans Black Stump Main Wall
25 Takotsubo

Tricky face moves up reasonable quality rock, the face left of CC. Stays in shade until midday.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Dec 2016

Sport 12m, 6
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Iris Moore Park
25/26 Wilde Times

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley main
V5 Mr Beasley

Start on the arete to finish on a tough move.

Set by Jason Piper

Boulder 6m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Docks Squashed Dog Wall
V5 Doctor Doctor!
Boulder 4m
V5 Pure Bred

Start on the small platform, up the strange sequence avoiding the platform if you fall!!

Boulder 5m
V5 The Lost Photo

Crimpy traverse test piece. Often has a wet landing,

Boulder
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Docks Muma Said Wall
V5 Crabish

Sit start under the small roof then up the arete. Often wet at the start.

Boulder
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Docks Northern Docks
V5 Mc Dock With Fries

Up the middle of the slab, to mantle on the crimper, head left to top.

Boulder 7m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Surge
25 Sir Charge

The left hand route. Tough start then some nice thin moves to top, anchor has 2 figure 8's through U bolt..

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 12m, 5
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Morna point North Wall
25 Rent Free

RIP Trent Lee 3/12/79-20/9/20. . . Trent looked at this line and after several attempts, gifted me (JJ) the line. Trent was a great guy and was always looking to his next adventure as well as being a gear pig. Thank you for the gift Trent, the name came as a thanks to Trent and a rhyming pun. From memory I think I flashed it, so it’s not a benchmark for the grade, enjoy the gift. . . . Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the delicate wall 1.5m past the anchors.

FA: JJ, 2004

Sport 16m, 6
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 3, The Rock Pool
25 Tsunami Warning

Classic up the middle of the wall directly below anchors. Thin sustained climbing. Easily to diagonal then up through shallow scoops on right, then trend left to pocket.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2005

Sport 14m, 4
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head Dolphin Walls Upper
25 Deliverance

Possibly the only sport route on Dolphin Walls! The wall directly above the abseil station on the halfway ledge, up past 6 fixed hangers.

Sport 20m, 6
25 Dolphin
Trad 20m
25 Crystal Ships

Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!

Mixed trad 20m, 4
26 Aggro

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

Trad 30m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head The Sundeck
25 Technocrat

The obvious face with the 2 ring bolts. Nice thin moves lead the way up this classic face. Continue out right under the small roof the cut back across left to top out.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1988

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head The Back End
26 Zorro

Pitches of 23, 26, 24. P2 crux follows a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to a glued on flake. Final pitch is a hard start with potential to fall onto belay. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.

FA: Dave Gray & John Wilde, 1991

Mixed trad 110m, 3, 26
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Hoppy's Cave
26 Vulcan (Project Brian Laursen )
Sport 12m
25 Toasted link

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

Set by Jason Piper

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Sport 8m, 5
25 Toast

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

FA: Ian Geatches, 1997

Sport 10m
26 Karma Gettin

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

FA: JJ, 2004

Sport 24m
25 Troglodyte (Pitch 1)

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

Sport 15m
26 Pulling the Troglodytes Plonka

Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 25m
25 M1 Black Leg Miner (Alternate Start)
Aid 10m

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