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Gulaga East Face

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1
1
AU
20

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Summary

An area on the east side of Gulaga (Mt Dromedary).

Description

High in the hillside are a number of prominent but well hidden cliffs, boulders and waterfalls that all look promising. An excellent granite cliff/ waterfall sits at the entrance to a cultish farm called 'Never Never'.

Access issues

Gulaga and some of its rock formations are sacred to the indigenous community of the area. The rock tors at the top of Gulaga are NOT to be climbed. Permission should be sought for areas where one is unsure of its cultural status.

Although most of Gulaga lies in national park, a large amount of the forest is private property. Best to keep that in mind when searching for new crags.

Approach

Follow google maps onto Mount Dromedary Trail. Drive up the trail across two (shallow and concreted) river crossings and up the side of the mountain until the road forks into three. The left option is towards a gated residence called 'Never Never', the right is also gated.

Park your car on the grassy patch on the left side, next to the big gate. Walk up the middle road (Mt Dromedary Trail) for approx 50 metres or less until the road bends to the left and you see a faint walking trail off to the right.

Follow this walking trail up and to the right and you will arrive at the top of the granite crag. There will be a small dam to your left and some water pipes.

Access to the bottom of the crag is via a 35m rappel from the water pipes.

Where to stay

Tilba is a cute village and the pub is lovely.

Ethic

This area not only is full of lovely finger cracks and off widths, but has one of the nicest top rope set ups you'll find, with a huge metal water pipe running directly above the cliff. As such, no bolting is allowed.

Additionally, due to the area's situation within an area of great cultural significance to the aboriginal community, damaging the rock in any way is not tolerated.

History

History timeline chart

Mark Shorter and Mike Masters scouted and first climbed this area in 2020.

Routes

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Grade Route

Slab start into shallow finger crack on the left side of the crag. A good rest half way up on a small ledge. As the finger crack runs out traverse to the right and up into a number of small crimps on the face which constituted the crux before a slabby finish.

FA: Mark Shorter, 2020

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