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Moruya South Head

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 58
  • Aka: The Ampitheatre
12
BLDV

Seasonality

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Description

A small bouldering spot on the South Headland.

Can be affected by high tides so be careful. Also be careful with pad placements as there's a ledge at the base of the majority of the climbs that can make falls difficult

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Head east at the roundabout in South Moruya on South Head Road. Follow all the way to the end and take a left onto Charles Moffitt Drive. Follow this around and turn left up the hill onto Coronation Drive and then go right onto Elizabeth St and go immediately right out towards the headland and park at the lookout point/cemetary.

Go left of the fence (you can look down onto the bouldering wall from the lookout) and follow the fishermans track down to the cliff line below. You'll see the area over to the right down a small scramble. 2 min walk in, be careful on the steep track down.

Not really accessible by public transport or walking from town.

History

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Developed in January 2015 by Nick Murphy. Only several problems sent with potential for more

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Routes

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Grade Route

The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

FA: 30 Dec 2014

Up the obvious leftwards leaning crack

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Middle of the blank face to the left of the crack

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

About 2m left of the entrance space. Climb past the diagonal cracks on big jugs to top out.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

1m left of previous climb. Start with hands in the high rails, up to the bad pinch and deadpoint for the top.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Through the little overhang with underclings up balancy crimps to top out.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Move up to the left of the next little undercling roof, up to pocket and into the kings lounge rail.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Crimps to shallow scoop at 3/4 height and then to rail at top to finish

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Up to horn on the top of the wall

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

Rising traverse at the top end

Set by Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

FFA: Benjamin Korff, 10 Dec 2015

On the boulder on the platform above the rest of the problems

Sit start on undercling rail and use crimps to slap to top

FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014

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