Radar Range, Bouldering

BLDV

VB-VB VB+V0-V0 V0+V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V7 V9 V11 V13

Map

9 8 7 4 5 2 6 1 3

1 The Tombstones 2 Front and Sector 3 The Lowlands 4 Radar Highlands 5 Deadies Sector 6 Tombstone Ridge 7 The Other Side 8 Valley of Slabs 9 The Dross

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Summary

Granite

Granite, with pockets, that's often overhung! And quite tall to boot. Lots of highballs.

Description

A lovely hill of boulders capped by a large electricity tower and radar array. The rock type is predominately granite (or volcanic tuff masquerading as granite) but seems to be intermixed with rhyolite of some sort, reaching heights of up to around 10 metres (one slabby cliff section in a valley), with many overhung/undercut problems (very unusual for granite) due to the orientation of the rock against the hill. While sometimes contrived, sit-starts on overhung rock are very possible on many of the problems. There are highballs - feel free to top-rope them, but do not bolt them! The rock varies greatly in quality, from ultra-featured and very hard on the skin to smoother and even, in some cases, pocketed rather than flaky. Be aware that rock on some problems will be friable. It's very difficult to clean the amount of rock in this area and the moss is rampant on one side of the hill. All climbs top out unless otherwise stated.

There are no closed projects here. You may wish to stay off a climb that a friend is trying.

Lastly, a word on grades: they're likely to be wrong one way or another. Feel free to contribute your own views and/or change the grades if you feel strongly about them. You will note that some climbs have a range of grades assigned, which indicates either a climb on the tipping point of two grades or in some cases a number of variants that can make a climb easier or harder. Consensus and personal grades are expected, and climbs will always feel harder or easier depending on style, preference, strength, technique and experience.

Access issues

Private

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.

Approach

Steep hike <5 min

The area is a quick 2-3 minute drive from Binalong, heading out the Harden side of the town. There are two parking options:

Continue on for 1.8kms out of the town until you see a right turn t-intersection onto dirt road - Bobbara Road. Continue along the dirt road until you get to the gate and head from there up the hill. You can park at several spots along the road. The boulders are a matter of metres from parking.
Drive on a bit further along Burley Griffin Way and the main road splits off into an old, disused road right below the hill. The boulders are then 15 minutes from the car, uphill.

The hill itself can be quite steep at spots, with quite a lot of potholes. Bobbara road is occasionally quite pitted as well, but generally no problems with a 2WD.

Where to stay

You could stay at the nearby hotel in Binalong.

Ethic

New route potential Under development

NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.

History

History timeline chart

While it is difficult to know whether any area has been climbed at before, the first concerted efforts towards development were made after David Nott identified the area in late 2011. After destroying parts of his shoulder he returned with friends in 2012 to try and make a dent in the endless boulder field...