Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Beaches Whale Blocks | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Deep End
Sitstart straight up the middle of the boulder. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 10 May 2018 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Pool Party
Steep boulder 2m left of Rockpool. Crouch start (or akward sitstart for no extra points) FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 10 May 2018 | 4m | |||
Northern Beaches Mckay Reserve | |||||
V5 | ★★ Beating Around the Bush
You never actually get in the crack. Starting at bottom of the crack make your way up the crack to top out. FA: Jarrah Turner, Dec 2020 | 4m | |||
Northern Beaches Mona | |||||
V5 | ★★ Pocket Wall
Start at right, head left and up to top out. FA: Rich | 3m | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Left Wing Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Spirit Guide
Hard move off deck then up to overhang. FA: Jason, 1996 | 12m | |||
25 | ★ Left Wing
Trend right and up. In much need of some love. FA: Steve Kelly, 1996 | 12m | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Jungle wall | |||||
26 | ★★ The Rumble In The Jungle
Straight forward, straight up to nails Font style knockout crux and engaging runout to anchors. FFA: Jason, 2019 | 18m, 9 | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Main Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Pterodactyl
Powerful moves at start, that lead to quite fun roof thuggery. FA: Adrian, 2018 | 18m, 10 | |||
26 | ★★★ Strange Fruit
Up slab to overhang, straight up through hard terrain with some long moves to a pumpy finish in the roof! FA: Lucas C, 2016 | 18m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ Strange Minds (Link up)
For those who prefer a little extra pump and don't like mantles or runouts, at the 6th bolt of mindhunter keep traversing right on slopers into the top of strange fruit! | ||||
25 | ★★★ Mindhunter
A great addition to Sydney sport climbing and total class at the grade. Resistance, sustained climbing on awesome holds puts you straight up the guts of main cave, with some really out there moves.Shared anchors with strange fruit. Rumour has it it sat untouched for years before a young Mitchell was gifted the route in exchange that Mitch would jump up and down on the scary looking block. | 15m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ The Death Of Cool
Up Mind Hunter then blast left at the anvil through exciting roof, nothing too hard until the pump sets in. FA: Lucas C, 2019 | 18m | |||
26 | ★★ Wake Up, Time to Fly (Direct)
Blast straight up the guts on slopers to gain access to the top crux of Wake Up Time To Fly. FA: Jason, 1995 | 18m, 9 | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Outer Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Habanero
up rose of Jericho to anchors on the left Set: Lucas C FA: Magdalena de la Torre, 10 May 2020 | 17m, 7 | |||
26 | Abandon Project
Set: unkown | 10m | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Heist Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Trust Me I'am An Engineer
Boulder up on great rock, then traverse left and up to anchors. FA: Lucas C, 2016 | 10m, 6 | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights The Underground | |||||
25 | ★ Grove Street | 20m | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Waterfall Crag | |||||
25 | ★★ Caitlyn Sam
Crag classic, first line of bolts. At the roof veer slightly right, past 2 Ubolts, and on to final single Ubolt (ignore double Ubolt lower-off straight up and back jump roof to clean). FA: Jeffrey Crass, 1987 | 10m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Split Rocket
The extension of Pocket Rocket. Follow PR till you hit the roof. Extend a draw at the anchors to avoid drag and keep going up! Pull a strenuous move at the lip and climb trough the super technical crimps at the head wall till the anchors. FA: Rod de Paiva, 22 Oct 2017 | 14m, 8 | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side | |||||
25 | ★ Self Saucing Sandbag
Mmmn! Up ladder then left through roof and up red wall past huge eye bolts (Galv 12 mm Petzl Collinex?). Lower-off on slab! FA: Giles Bradbury | 15m | |||
26 | ★★★ Full Tilt | 15m | |||
25 | Wolfy and the Scientist
Start in big jug under lip as for Full Tilt then right past slots FA: Leonard Coyne, 1989 | 12m | |||
25 | ★★ Pat the Pig
Delicious pocket pulling up top. Orange wall above 15m up and right of Septic Penguins. Boulder start and through roof to hard finish, slap right to anchor. Rebolted 2018 FA: Michael Law, 1985 | 15m, 5 | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Slabs | |||||
25 | Wimples
Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs. A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge left of ring anchor, then trend right through scoop and up left past old carrots. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 10m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Fat, Sallow and Drunk
3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab and steep wall above. 26? FA: Mikl, 1980 | 20m, 5 | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen The Academy Bump Block | |||||
V5 | ★ Pockets
Stand start on the 2 pockets. Up the face to the peak, eliminating the big hole and the arete. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Dan's Despair
Sit start to arete directe FA: Travis, 2018 | ||||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Nashville The Rodeo | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Pancho and Lefty
Awesome wall climbing from a sit start. Pockets and scooped features to crimps and great top out | ||||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Nashville The Jukebox | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Berry Sorbet
Start left side of scoop, move up left, nice cross over into juggy crimp, not sure if it will finish straight up and over or following the break to the left. Set: David Muir, 15 Jan 2019 | 4m | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Nashville The Nine to Five Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Foggy Mountain Breakdown
A quality mantle problem once brushed. Start on a chest height edge, move up to a slot followed by a technical slopey top out. | ||||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Deep Creek | |||||
V5 | ★★ Jimmy's 5
Right hand side of cave lie down position, a few big moves on crimps to a highball mantle straight up face. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★ Smells Fishy
Stand start in the break, head to the top via the pocket. FA: Jack Folkes, 15 Aug 2019 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Gecko Flex
Sit start FA: Tom Osborne, 1 Aug 2018 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Lunging Lounge Lizard
Start on the juggy rail in the cave just like the Lizard Lip. Move left and throw for a good rail, match and bring your feet across, that is the "lunging" part of the lounge lizards done. Now get ready for the sickest mantle move. Match your hands high on decent slopers, throw high again to a hidden crimp for the final mantle. Very rewarding and can be done with a right heel-hock instead. FA: Roman Rosen, 29 Sep 2018 | 3m | |||
Northern Beaches Valley Lines The Starter First Tier | |||||
V5 | ★★ Yertle the Turtle
Sit start for dyno from perfect sloper slots to break, topping out directly. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Sex Ed Jeopardy
Start as for Yertle the Turtle, but break right from the slots via a tricky move to the sidepull jug, topping out from there. Maybe a touch harder than Yertle the Turtle. | ||||
V5 | ★★ In Memoriam
Sit start matched in jug and make way straight upwards. Side pull of Thorn is out. FA: Carl Watson, 9 Oct 2023 | 2m | |||
Northern Beaches Valley Lines Font Blocs | |||||
V5 | ★ Greasy Jumper
Sit start on low ledge. Make a powerful move to slopey hold up and right before topping out. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Snakeskin Boots
Stand start on underclings and poor feet and fight (or finesse) the line of least resistance up the wall of bulges. | 3m | |||
Northern Beaches Cromer Heights Moist Wall | |||||
V5 | Chroming
Move up through worsening breaks, big slap to top out. Set: James HG, David Muir & Bryce | 5m | |||
Northern Beaches The Den | |||||
V5 | Risk Management
Sit start on the hueco/sidepull. Finish on the sloper. Sharp. | 2m | |||
Northern Beaches The Saddle Club West Wall | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ White Skinhead
Sit start with LH on crimp under the roof and RH on crimp on the right face of the arete. Tricky first move to the set of 3 crimps then easy until the bulging topout sequence ramps it up a notch. Right wall is off FA: Ian Millar | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Ultralight Seam
Stand start on RH jug and LH stacked mono. Plant feet on and reach up to good RH edge, throwing out left to the lip via a double dyno, ninja kick or anything inbetween. John B Meedu (FA) FA: Meedu Samaraweera, Feb 2018 | 3m | |||
Northern Beaches The Saddle Club The Three Musketeers | |||||
V5 | The Mane Attraction
One-mover. Stand start on slopey sidepulls and up on good holds. | ||||
Northern Beaches North Curl Curl Scattered Boulders | |||||
V5 | Cyclops
Start matched on slopey diagonal sidepull, punch left to hueco and continue to top out. | ||||
Northern Beaches Black Cave | |||||
V5 | ★★ Shrimpy Waters
Start on the shelf. Big move to the hueco then top out via the elegant crescent shaped holds just right of Dead Calm. Reachy. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Right To Left
Start Matched on the lower far right jug at the lip of the roof. The separated wall on the right is off. Traverse using holds on the face above the roof in the reverse direction to the V4 ('Right to left'). Finish matched on the starting jug of the V4. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Right to Left to Topout
Same as 'Right to Left' but topout as 'Dead calm' / 'Aquarius' instead of finishing on the starting hold of the V4 | 6m | |||
Northern Beaches Rush Bay | |||||
V5 | Under The Radar
Start matched in hole & head left via pinch & right pocket, mantle. FA: Damien Alexander, 2009 | ||||
Northern Beaches Shelly Beach Headland | |||||
V5 | ★★ Violet Butthole
A serious butt drag of a climb. Sit-start with left hand on the jug rail and right hand on your choice of side pulls on the underside of the boulder. Compress your way out from underneath the boulder on good edges before using jugs to mantel out to the right. FA: Jamie, 10 Dec 2022 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ BUG
Stand start up the prominent blunt steep arete on the ocean side. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ The Sidekick
1m left of The Line. Two sloper sidepulls and feet from hell. Topout left of choss hole. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Leaning Cube (Left)
Sit start left side and flake. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Days Into Nights
Crouch start on the sidepull flake. Head up and over to top out up the slab. FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ bloody pockets
Sit start, hands on left arete and pocket, traverse right through pockets to dyno on on face and top out. FA: Fraser | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Escalate
Fun movement into a cool exit.Start on side pull jug and nice flat crimp jug, crouch start. Stay below the lip and exit up corner slab. Avoid jug rail above lip. Landing partial built, recommend 3 decent size pads FA: Peter ilosvay, 29 Aug 2021 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Decade
Favours the tall. Stand start matched under the horn, chock rock is in for feet. Move to the slopey lip and good side pull crimp. Pull yourself up and over to a slightly scary mantle. Hold your nerves and finish up the no hands slab. The landing is partially built, but multiple pads and spotter recommended. Mantis FA: Peter ilosvay | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Solitary Daze
Sit start matched low in juggy feature. Big move out right then up to a fun mantle. Flexibility helps but not necessary. | 3m | |||
Northern Beaches WB Slabs | |||||
V5 | ★★ 1
| 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ 9
| 6m | |||
Northern Beaches WB Lower Tier | |||||
V5 | ★★ 3
| ||||
V5 | ★★★ 4
| ||||
Northern Beaches WF | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Ballad Of Brian Westlake
Sit start on the arete, LH in the corner and RH in pocket. Head straight up. FA: Jack Folkes, 1 Jun 2021 | 4m | |||
V5 | 8
| 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Bleeding Gums Murphy
Up the slab to committing mantle. FA: Jack Folkes, 10 Feb 2021 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ The Eye Of Angophora
Sit start under the prow on RH pocket and LH feature. Head up the prow to top out right. FA: Jack Folkes, 19 Jan 2021 | 2m | |||
North Shore Blues Point Life Aquatic Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Dislocation Station
A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the big pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP. Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try! FA: | 5m | |||
North Shore Blues Point Kung Fu Captin Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Jet Li
Stand start both hands on the square pocket near Monkey Magic while ensuring both feet are not on the sandy bit of rock (yellow-orange). Avoid the yellow-orange rock for feet and traverse towards the top-out of Bruce Lee. Also avoid going for the sandy ledge to traverse towards the left. FA: benthepleb, 22 Aug 2021 | 5m | |||
North Shore Blues Point Peeking Patch | |||||
V5 | ★★ Flake it Till you Make it
Start both hands on the undercling before moving up a line of thin crimps to better holds up high. Match the top of the wall for the tick (tree obstructs topout). No shared holds with Coal Train Blues. The large separate bulge of rock to the left is off as per video. FA: max michell | 5m | |||
North Shore The Spit Sandy Bay | |||||
V5 | ★★ 27
| 4m | |||
North Shore The Spit Pearl Bay Pearl Bay Climbing | |||||
26 | ★★ Convulsive Eggplant
Initialled start, L of HIE. Up and dyno to BR with fixed hanger. Mantle, move left then up and right (2 BRs one with fixed hanger) to tree. FA: Julian McGee & Early 1990s | 10m | |||
North Shore Balmoral Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||||
V5 | Balmoral Arete
Arete on the right side of the bloc to the left of Lover's Tiff. FA: Damien Alexander, 2011 | ||||
North Shore Cremorne Brightmore Reserve | |||||
V5 | ★ Susan's Horn
Start as for Susan, then keep traversing left till large, sloped ramp. Follow this. Watch for high slope and wide pocket. Tough if you're short! FA: dwebster, Jan 2016 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ The King Over the Sea
Pretty well the final buttress heading right. Start on two high crimps. Up to groovy ramp. Then up over round top. Decent is ugly. Could be 6? Really good. The seated start will make it excellent. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | ||||
North Shore Cremorne Primrose Park Bum Crag | |||||
V5 | ★★ Homeless Persons Hotline
On the steep side of the long block, start about as low as you can. Hold the first lip and traverse it till the apex. May be v6. (The hotline is 1800 152 152 out of interest.) FA: dwebster, Nov 2016 | ||||
North Shore Middle Cove The Chief's Big Chief Sitting Rock | |||||
V5 | Mr Millipede's Hideout
Link Pants Up Hands Down! into the second half of Hands Up Kookaburra! | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Hands Up Pants Down!
Link Stem Junior 2 into Project 6. Some nice back and forth movement around the arete. Everything above the pinch and pocket level are out on the starting face of the rock. The top peak of the arete is out. Vid: Richard C | 4m | |||
V5 | Hands Up Kookaburra!
Link Hands Up Pants Down! into Kookaburra Attacked My Girlfriend. | 4m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | |||||
25 | ★ Spiral Corpse
Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell' Up arete. Chain lower offs Carrot retro bolt 2016, need replacing FA: Michael Law, 1988 | 10m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ Pulpy Kidney Part II
Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off. FA: Michael Law, 1988 | 8m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks First Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ 3
Narrow line up the right of the arete. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Ralph's Arete (sit start)
| 4m | |||
V5 | 7
Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up | 4m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks Walkdown Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★ 6
1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above | 4m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks Kenny Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ 12
From broken undercling, reach/slap the sloping lip, then over and up using the right arete | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ The Nose linked into 5
| ||||
V5 | ★ Neil's Hands-Free Problem
Start on footholds on left edge of front of boulder, traverse right, and top out up crack in the middle, all hands-free. | 3m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks Four Cracks Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Razorblade Alley
Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ 15 Variant
Between arete and corner eliminating the break and big pocket. | 4m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks Abseil Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Seam Eliminate
Up the seam using 20 cm corridor of rock | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ 9
Between 'The Arete' and The Tourist Route, a thin wall above two pockets with a well worn edge. Don't stray offline. | 6m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks Black Wall/Wide Crack Area | |||||
V5 | 2
High, thin, airy, scary. | 6m | |||
V5 R | ★★ 5
Middle of the wall left of '4 - Corner Crack' on small crimps. | 6m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks One Hold Wall | |||||
V5 | 2
Traverse the block rightwards staying below the lip. | 3m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks Pipeline Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ 4
Starting at the base of the ramp, climb the wall without using the seam. Tricky. | 4m | |||
V5 | 5
Using the only good set of footholds to the left of the ramp use a single finger undercling and reach, reach, reach for an edge. It helps if you're tall. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ 9
Start with your right hand in the slot and move up via the slopey pocket just right of the layback crack to a higher slopey pocket. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Corals
The classic left-to-right traverse starting in the layback crack and going all the way to '2 - The Runnel'. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Corals R to L
| 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Corals R to L linked into 16.
|