Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge The Orphanage Left Side | |||||
V7 | ★★ Tight Crack
Punch from the sit start up to the two slopers. Take a grade off without the sit start. Top out. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2015 | 2m | |||
V7 | ★ Grapefruit Daytrip
Sit start at the shallow rail, crimp on the right, crimps on top, mantle top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge The Graveyard Upper Side | |||||
V7 | Flat Chest
Stand start on the crimps and mantle over the top slopers. FA: Jarred Jordan | ||||
V7 | ★ Voodoo Child
Start on the big side pull and head up over the lip to the right. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Moon Landing
Start on the big obvious jug and jump straight to the hold over the lip. Avoid holds in between. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2019 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Three Tight Holes
Squat start on the pockets and use a few small crimps and fight to the top. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge The Graveyard Lower Side | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Elegance of the Hedgehog
Absolute bloody classic. Sit start on the right side of the boulder. Use the arete and the face. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Yippy-Crimp-Yay-MTF
Use the left arete and any tiny crimps on the face. Feet are bloody terrible. Makes for a tough slab climb. FA: Jarred Jordan, 2018 | 3m | |||
Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge South Side Bouldering - The Boulder Field | |||||
V7 | ★ Afternoon Deelite
Burly sit start off RH dish and LH sidepull leading into Big Yellow Joint. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 2019 | 7m | |||
Hornsby and the North Berowra Blackboard Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Butter Knives
An utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the millenium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29 Start: 4m right of 'Gidget Verdon'. FA: Mike Law, 1980 | 12m, 4 | |||
Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase McCarrs Creek | |||||
V7 | ★★ The Knight Bus
No hands walk up the slab to some big moves towards the obvious jug and up to a tough mantle FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 28 Aug 2021 | 4m | |||
Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase Cottage Point Cottage Cheese | |||||
V7 | Gone In 60 Milliseconds
Grab the holds at the base of the feature in the middle of the overhang and good luck! Explosive fun. | ||||
Hornsby and the North Ku-ring-gai Chase Nameless | |||||
V7/8 | ★★★ Neil's Arete
Right arete of freestanding block. Fantastic. FA: Neil Wallace | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Sharik's Arete
Up the arete over the fallen block. FA: Sharik Walker | 7m | |||
Hornsby and the North Eagle Rock The Left Wing | |||||
27 | ★★★ Squeeze the Squid
FA: JASON PIPER | 28m | |||
27 | ★★ Daddy Cool Crack
FA: JASON PIPER | 30m | |||
Sutherland Closed Alfords Point Bouldering | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Stringybark Massacre
Crag Classic! Start on a jug at the back wall and move out the roof, along the sloping shelf and powerfully into the broken corner before heading left and straight up the groove to a thought provoking top-out. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Love Gun Stand Start
Standing start, straight into the back breaking press. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★ Humpathon
Start on the shelf low and just right of the corner and make powerful move straight up to gain a good hold before taversing left and finishing up either 'Love Gun' or Stringybark. Pumpy and hard for the grade. | ||||
Sutherland Lom crag | |||||
28 | ★★★ Taylor made
Start as for bucks party. Move right through roof and up headwall. Knee pad or tee shirt for the right knee is recommended.. very good and very hard.. the right start is the "To Suit" project Set: Cameron Taylor, 2009 FA: Jason Green, 2019 | 13m, 10 | |||
Sutherland Little Moon Bay The Slabs | |||||
27 | ★ The labyrinth
Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip. FA: nathanual hebbard & JackRyan, 17 Jan 2022 | 8m | |||
Sutherland The Cathedral Main Crag | |||||
27 | ★ Bordella de Merde
A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008) FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2011 | 8m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★ Inchworm Groove
This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear. FA: Mike Law, 1986 | 8m | |||
Sutherland Lost World | |||||
27 | ★★★ Bird Bath Blues
Start as for Slap My Blues Away and at the anchors pull the lip and begin to trend slightly left. (to avoid drag while getting lowered off and working the route unclip last bolt before the anchors) FA: nathanual hebbard, 5 Jun 2021 | 18m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Lost world Scenic Detour
(link up) Endurance Test Piece! Start as for Slap My Blues Away and instead of pulling the lip keep traversing the entire length of the flake, finish up Family Ties. Long draws and slings help for rope drag. FA: nathanual hebbard, 30 May 2021 | 28m, 12 | |||
Sutherland Bangor Blocs Blocs | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Rocknasium
Sit start as for Cool and straight up 45 degree wall, Jugs out R are off. Alternative Beta to the Dyno: Mauricio Chino FFA: Cam Taylor | 4m | |||
Sutherland Bonnet Bay | |||||
27 | ★★ Heavy Haulage
One of the hardest routes in the Shire and appears to have thwarted every attempt at a repeat. Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). There has been two variant methods that have been done - (26) FA CT ignore third bolt and climb left to good jug on Lean Beef Now DYNO up and right to join back into line. There is also a (25) option. Climb to third RB, then traverse right to arete (left side of Offalwdith). Up a few moves then traverse back left (reachy) into line. Top out finish no anchors . Bolted from mixed trad by LW. FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s | 15m, 6 | |||
Sutherland Closed Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) Bonnet Bay Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Lucky 7
| 3m | |||
Sutherland Jannali Reserve | |||||
V7 | ★★ Jannali Dyno
Sit start below the hole. Dyno from the hole to the sidepull out to the right. FA: Joe Hodgson | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Triple Bypass | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Quadruple Bypass
Sit start 2 metres right of Triple Bypass, and off the undercling, use the pocket to gain the break. Then traverse left to finish up triple bypass. FA: Joe Hodgson | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Swimming in a Fish Bowl
Start As You Can't Change History - instead of going around to ramp, reverse the shoulder move of Wish You Were Here and link into The Brown Ghost. Bicep Bricker! FA: Kosta Prekos | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ The Real Wish You Were Here
Sit start at left of cave. Head straight out to the face and then head right to finish up the ramp. Back wall/ledge is in. FA: Joe Hodgson | 5m | |||
Sutherland The Ridge Boulders Menai Sand and Soil Area | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Big Red
Start on broken shelf in far right of cave.Traverse left along slopers and through broken corner. Continue straight out the centre of the cave to top out. FA: Ryan Cocchietto | ||||
V7 | ★★ Menai sand and soil
Same start as Big red traverse along slopers into broken corner and out the roof. Exit right to top out. | ||||
Sutherland Sleaze cave | |||||
V7 | Cave 1 link
Start on the far left of cave 1 and traverse around to toilet sprayed on the rock. | ||||
Sutherland Sierra Road | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Great Roof
Start in gigantic underling and bust out to holds on the lip (one broken) Finish up the head wall. Fantastically fun boulder. | 8m | |||
V7 | ★ The Great Wallroids
As for The Great Roof to lip then traverse left on crimps to mantle in cave. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 3 Dec 2022 | 4m | |||
Sutherland Bass and Flinder's Point | |||||
28 | ★★ Man Overboard
Dyno start and then left, head up to finish. FA: nathanual hebbard, 5 Nov 2022 | 8m, 3 | |||
Sutherland Villas The Villas Cliffs | |||||
V7 | ★★ Help into Rock On
Link sit start of 'Help into Rock On' | ||||
Sutherland Villas Closed The Villas Cave | |||||
V7 R | Off Peak
Start in underclings at the back of the cave (back wall is on), climb out and into right hand side of scoop, then move right and across to the big pockets, before tackling the powerful headwall. Bad landing | ||||
Sutherland Closed Prices Cave | |||||
28 | Intellectually Mild
Through roof then climb right to crimpy crux then nice to top. 'Fantastic' quality. Start: right of jill FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | 10m, 4 | |||
Sutherland The Fish Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Flying Fish
RH in the pocket 0.5 metres R of Let's Make Love. Go for the top with LH. Arete is off. FA: Joe Hodgson | 4m | |||
Sutherland Dead Mans Wall | |||||
V7 | ★ Fish Food
Wide start on slopey LH sidepull and RH slot. Dyno to jug. | 2m | |||
Sutherland The Wing Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Weak Ape Test Zone
Sit start on the sidepull/undercling. Low slabby band of rock is out for feet. Follow the obvious weakness through the roof to finish on the ledge out near the point. | 4m | |||
Sutherland The Forgotten Cave | |||||
V7/8 | ★★ Forgotten Link
Same start as Dracula but move across into the Forgotten. Same finish. | ||||
V7 | ★★★ The Forgotten
| ||||
V7 | ★★ The Forgotten Direct
Alternative more direct exit to the 7. Big triangle jug and massive shelf for original top are all out. Not sure if it's been done in the olden days but haven't heard of it. | ||||
Sutherland Party Palace Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★ Amber Sunrise
Start with hands in cave and go straight up to top. Simple description, hard problem. FA: Earl Paras FA: 15 Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
Sutherland Carss Park Up In The Nose Bleeds | |||||
V7 | ★★ Bristle Density
Sit start with matched hands on rail, throw out right and then traverse left, match top rail to finish. FA: James Fenech, 22 Aug 2021 | ||||
Sutherland Cape Solander Kurnell | |||||
V7/8 | Dyno
Topo indication is approximate. Please refine if you know this route. FA: Joseph Hodgson | ||||
North West The Balkans The Frontline The Far Side | |||||
V7 | ★★ Hollow Mountain Dreaming
Start on good hold on the left side of the corner and head left out the roof. The separate boulder at the base of the start is not in for hands or feet. Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Sunday Dentist
'7th Day Ascentist' variant, the same up till the slopey rail then all of Hollow Mountain Dreaming is off for hands and feet and instead of going up the crimps you go straight to the roof. Top out is the same as '7th Day Ascentist'. Maybe V8? Needs some repeats. FA: Chris, 11 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
North West The Balkans The Frontline The Eastern Bloc | |||||
V7 | ★ Swiss Cheese Mind
Link the Crewcut sit-start into Dog Tags. Desperate and crimpy. Start: Sit. FA: Saxon Johns | ||||
North West The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V7 | ★ Eating Sheep
Link 'Milo and Kofi' into Woolly Jumper via a mid level traverse. FA: Phil Staples | ||||
V7 R | ★★★ Paratroopin
Traverse right out lip of cave to tough mantle then finish up easy slab. FA: Rob Saunders | 7m | |||
V7 R | ★★★ Pockets of Resistance
Start matched in the back pocket, across the roof, pull the lip and up the difficult slab. There are a pair of nesting swallows in one of the pockets at the start from time to time so be aware. FA: Rob Saunders | 6m | |||
North West The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Sloper Dan Low
Start as for El Kooko 'matched' on the flake below the roof and move right to finish up 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Lieutenant Dan
'Sloper Dan Low' eliminate. Climb 'Sloper Dan Low' up to the crimp before the top rail then go direct to the horn. FA: Chris, 16 Sep 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Boogie Knights
As 'Boogie Knights (Original)', but exiting right of the horn via jugs as on 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Significantly easier finish than the original. Start: Sit FA: Matt Wilder | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Super Size Me
Start 'matched' on the low start below the jug rail of El Kooko as for Sloper Dan Low. Climb across this problem all staying low all the way into and then up Shell Shocked. FA: Daniel da Silva | ||||
North West The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Right Hand Side | |||||
V7 | ★★ Boabie Dinosaur
Start as for Little Buddha and then make your way through The Vineyard jug rail, then head under the lip to link up and finish out Little Jon Jon. FA: Sam de Guzman, 2016 | 3m | |||
North West The Balkans The Frontline The Pee Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★ Battle of the Bonds
Sit start as for all other routes that begin in the cave. Around roof on slopers, then up the arete, staying right of 'Battle of the Shirts' and 'Battle of the Shorts'. FA: Adam Griffiths | 4m | |||
North West The Balkans The Frontline Area Q | |||||
V7 | ★ Mann Killer
Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'). Skip the good hold on the left and instead us the triangle crimp for the RH and the glued crimp for the LH. After the break, finish up 'Lay Down Your Arms'. FA: Dave Kellermann | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Misdirection
Start as Mann Killer move up through the triangle pinch out right then the glued on crimp bumping up to the jug, then finish up through Arms Race. FA: Owen Davey | ||||
North West The Balkans The Frontline Roadside | |||||
V7 | The Beach
Double undercling start, around bulge to crimps then bust to jugs. Start: Sit FA: Matt Wilder | 3m | |||
North West The Balkans The Lip | |||||
V7 | ★★ What's blue and green and directly over
A testing mantle and the tougher exit. Starting from the Hueco heading slightly left to top out. FA: Daniel da Silva | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Whats Blue and Green and Red All Over?
Start at the big Hueco in the middle of the cave. Out to the lip moving right to top out. FA: Patrick John Reynolds, 2011 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Little Hell
Starts 3m to the right of the big hueco in the roof, below the faint runnel. Start left hand on low crimp right hand on slightly higher crimp rail. Start with or kick right heel up to start. Curse your way up on not much to gain high little pocket. Doesn't move out right FA: Dan DaSilva, 2012 | 3m | |||
North West The Balkans The Mustard Cave | |||||
V7 | ★ Dancing in the Dark
Sit start to Battle Of The Banksias. Short but pumpy. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 27 Apr 2020 | 3m | |||
North West The Balkans The Trenches Bunker Wall | |||||
V7 R | ★ Hamburger Hill (sit start)
Pointless sit start to an otherwise great problem. Start: Sit FA: Jason Whitton | ||||
V7 | Midway
| ||||
North West The Balkans The Trenches The Caves | |||||
V7 | ★★ Reader's Wives var
Don't use the painful mono, and this is a powerful, committing and good problem. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Be tall don't wanna fall
Sit start to Reader's wives var FFA: Chris | 3m | |||
North West The Balkans The Trenches | |||||
V7 | Mortar-fied
Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | ||||
North West The Balkans The Sewer | |||||
V7 | Napoleon Bonafrog
Same shared start, then out to the lip and up via cool pinch | 3m | |||
North West The Fear Factory The Acrachronisms | |||||
28 | ★★★ Margins of the Mind
Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish. FA: nathanual hebbard, 18 May 2022 | 12m | |||
North West The Fear Factory The Asteroid Belt | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Tyson's Red Rocket
High, hard, scary, awesome. FA: Pete Balint | 6m | |||
North West Mystery Rocks area r | |||||
V7 | Unknown
| ||||
North West RnR The Overhang | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Aurora Borealis
Mega classic roof traverse and thought provoking topout. This is the flag-problem of RnR! FA: Tim O'Neill & Adam Griffiths, 2002 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Aurora Direct
A more direct line on the right. Slightly harder than aurora borealis FA: Tim O'Neill & Adam Griffiths, 2002 | 7m | |||
North West Jessicca's | |||||
V7 | ★★ Great Expectations
A direct start on the steep wall punching into the scoop. | 4m | |||
V7 | Natural Birth
Climb "Great Expectations" and finish out "Will It Ever End". | ||||
North West The Stables The Stables | |||||
27 | ★★★ Approaching Showers
Moving up the obvious start into the blocky flake feature, with a big move up left to continue following the leftward rising rail joining the finish of Project 1 through the runnel feature, no lower offs, top out and walk off boulder to finish for full value and walk back down to belay area or back clean from last ring. Caution if topping out, easy climbing but runout. Take care when cleaning. FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
North West Marsfield | |||||
V7 | ★★ Speak Truth
Stand start on the crimpy, sloper rail, move right and up on thin, crimpy holds and top out to the left. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★ Stargazing
Stand start right of the smooth tree. FA: Eli Mercado, 20 Jun 2020 | 5m | |||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Starcourt Mall | |||||
V7 | ★★ Demogorgon
Sit start on the big sloper jug and go directly up on some sloping edges leading to an easy rounded top. FA: Aaron Liu | ||||
V7 | ★★ Planck's Constant
Sit start on the flat jug and go left following the line of crimps. FA: Aaron Liu | ||||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Renaissance Wall & The Amber Room | |||||
V7 | ★★ Coffee and Contemplation
Sit start on the chipped jug, do a big move out right to a slopy edge and top out on the dihedral. FA: Simon | ||||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek Double Domino Area | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Double Domino
A must do classic if you are into dynos. One of the most iconic dynos in Sydney. Stand start in the break at head height, do some easy moves and dyno to the lip from the perfect huecos. Bring a good spotter. FA: Matti Puckridge | ||||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Games Room | |||||
V7 | ★★ Monopoly, Do Not Pass GO
Sit start on the low sidepull, traverse left on some crimps/slopers and finish up GO. FA: Matti Puckridge, 2011 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ A Man's Trail of Slime
Possibly the most interesting line on this wall. Links the best sections of each individual boulder into one mega classic traverse. Shared start with Monopoly, Do Not Pass GO and traverse all the way out left into the topout of Snakes And Ladders To avoid any controversial opinions on the name, this route got this name because it was FAed in a 30°C day where every hold immediately turned black and the chalk disappeared due to the sweat, leaving a trail behind. FA: Maurício Chino | ||||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Basement | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Divergence
An absolute classic. Sit start matched on the big side pull feature, do a few tough moves up to the roof. Traverse out right to finish matched on the big horn above the fallen tree. FA: Andrew Bognar | ||||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Stevenson's Creek The Bird Bath | |||||
V7 | ★★ Confess and Compress
Sit start up sloping rail to big last move https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1L7C7Py2hp/?igsh=azJ2bzIyY3RjbzVz FA: Alexander Lopes, 23 Dec | ||||
North West Bidjigal Reserve - Heidi Place The Frontier | |||||
V7 | ★★ Twingularity
Crouch start with RH on the sloper ledge and LH on the undercling. Compress your way on the lower lip and do a big backwards move to the hole in the flake. CAUTION: PLEASE DO NOT PULL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FLAKE, STICK TO THE HOLE/LEFT SIDE WHERE IT'S THICKER. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ The Singularity
An absolute classic and the main reason for visiting the main wall of this crag. Sit start on the lower break under the roof, do some moves to gain the pinch on the lip and dyno to the hole in the flake. CAUTION: PLEASE DO NOT PULL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FLAKE, STICK TO THE HOLE/LEFT SIDE WHERE IT'S THICKER. FA: Aaron Liu | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Bird In Flight
Start matched on the underclings under the bulge and jump to slopy lip just above. Exit out right in the middle of the big scoop. FA: Connor Lucas | 3m | |||
Northern Beaches Palm Beach Boulders | |||||
V6/7 | ★★ Frozen Grapes
Dyno - hands on the jug below Just Don't Care and big dyno to the horn above the break. Same top. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 26 Nov 2022 | ||||
V7 | Crimp City
Crimp your way up, high and committing, the crack on the left is a no go. The Southern face of the North Boulder A hold up high and right has broken off. | 4m | |||
Northern Beaches Whale Blocks | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Work For It
Match at the start under the boulder, very tricky start then work for each move FA: Peter Rothwell, Feb 2015 |