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Description

Devil's Fish Bowl is a series of rocky platforms located at the southern end of Devil's Kitchen. The lower platform provides plenty of bouldering on excellent rock along the 30m long wall, ranging from vertical to slightly overhung and from 1.5m to 4m in height. The problems may not be too challenging but the location is unbelievably scenic with sea cliffs to one side, a secluded beach to the other and the big blue stretching out into the distance. The upper platform provides more challenging high ball problems on questionable rock - probably best to bring a top-rope if you’re interested in these problems. Climbs listed from left to right.

Access issues inherited from Devil's Kitchen

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.

Approach

Access to Devil's Fish Bowl is via Sunshine Beach (there is limited parking along Seaview Terrace) and then onto the Coastal Track. Follow the track up many, many, many stairs (220) and then around the headland enjoying amazing views along the way. A lesser, fenced off track leaves the main one and heads out on to the grassy headland where you will stay right to go down to the Devil's Fish Bowl.

Ethic inherited from Devil's Kitchen

Trad, no need for chalk.

Routes

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Grade Route

The lower of the two rock platforms. Mostly short (good for beginners & kids, or if you don’t have a mat), but reaches a respectable height in the corner (from about ‘Crimp and Stem’ right).

Sit start. Easy climbing straight up the arete to a top out.

Obvious corner between PLE and CP. Tricky sit start but easy otherwise.

Sit start as per Naughty Corner. Traverse right without using top lip of wall. Top out via Diamond Hoo Ha.

2m right of PLE. Sit start. More easy climbing up another prominent arete.

Start as for FO but trend diagonally left on juggy holds to finish on CP.

Start 1m left of OHH. Sit start. Climb straight up the arete to top out.

Link OHH into JT, via the obvious horizontal break.

Left leaning laybacks

Starts 1/2 m to the right of OHH. Go straight up via obvious flake in overhang.

Sit start. Match both hands on low ledge. Up to undercling under roof, and then top out over the flake.

Stand start on high pinch, then straight up jugs. Will have a good, harder sit start when/if the low rock dries out.

Sit start just right of white patch of rock.

Tends to seep.

Sit start 1m left of Crimp and Stem. Tough start on underclings under the roof before reaching blind up and over. From there a few more tricky moves to the top out.

Tends to seep.

Start as per Bikini Bottom but move straight up via vertical crack.

Start at corner, then move slightly right and up prominent red streak.

Sit start 1m right of Crimp and Stem. Match hands on small ledge before powering upwards to top out.

Follow the line of most resistance on the mini arete.

Awkward sit start using small pockets to crimp and lunge.

Sit start as per Alright! But trending up to the left to top out.

Tends to seep.

Sit start 2m left of Drip. Trend up right. Reachy moves to the top out.

Tends to seep.

Sit start 1m left of SCS. Layback right using the obvious (and often wet) crack. Easy top out.

Tends to seep.

Mildly tricky sit start, but then straight up the face on very good holds.

Sit start then straight up to top out

FA: Oliver Rickford, 5 Jul 2020

Sit start using big holds, Traverse right to arete then top out. Avoid using the blocks to the right of the arete.

FA: Tyler, 5 Jul 2020

There are a couple of nice lines right of SCS, but they are more likely to be swept by waves.

Lip traverse from right to left.

Lip traverse from left to right.

Wall above Devil's Fish Bowl. Height, some crumbly rock and unprotected falls make this the domain of the brave. Nevertheless there are some fine looking lines.

Climb directly the outer most ridge which gradually travels to the left before topping out.

FA: Connor Black, 1 Jan 2019

Starting on the lower left flake, head up and right to the higher of the two ledge/cracklines then follow this to the top out.

Start as per UT, but trend right at the lower of the two ledge/cracklines.

Nice looking highball blocky corner, with tricky start.

Tends to seep.

Traverse the nice wall in either direction, with feet barely off the ground. Mostly easy, except near ‘Knee Jammers Delight’.

Route begins with a right side pull with both hands in the obvious crack. Follow the crack up and traverse right to join 'Knee Jammers Delight'.

Set: Connor Black, 1 Dec 2019

FFA: Connor Black, 1 Dec 2019

FA: Connor Black, 1 Dec 2019

Climbs the broad crack separating the freestanding bloc from the left side of the wall.

The next two routes look amazing and perhaps not too difficult, but also scary and unprotectable. There's a very real risk of large falls onto the narrow ledge, then bouncing down the 'Lower Fish Bowl' wall as well. A top rope seems advisable.

Scary.

Climbs the right hand face of the freestanding bloc.

Climbs the broad crack separating the freestanding bloc from the right side of the wall.

There are certainly more lines to the right, however they get taller, more exposed, and have chossy top-outs. They're probably best approached as routes and with a rope.

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