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Description

A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.

© (christo)

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

There's a loop road with parking, BBQ and toilet at the far end. It's easiest to park outside the reserve and walk down the right branch to the crag. Stay on the road until the obvious wall appears on left right next to the road. You'll see the obvious crack (Gruntled). DON'T PARK HERE! (Try to stay off other unmarked tracks to crag to help bush regeneration, plus the walk along the road to a literal roadside crag is a dream.) The scramble to the top of the crag is 20 meters further along the loop road from the crag.

© (christo)

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab.

FA: Daniel Webster, 30 Nov 2014

Start: Right end of cliff below bollard-like lump of rock. DBB

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 2m L of Ept

FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo), 2000

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.

Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle up the arete. Shared DBB with K.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

FA: Munch, 1993

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge. Up sparsely pocketed wall, past 3 RB's and then up flake. Chain lower off.

FA: Munch, 1993

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Up and right at roof, then back left to lower off. Rebolted on rings.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof to big 'pillow' hold. Chain lower off set back on left. Rebolted.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: As for DD. Up and left at roof. Shared chain lower off with DD.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 1m L of GFH. Good gear and takes wires well. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort. Toprope/lower-off anchor at top

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Chain lower offs

Carrot retro bolt 2016, need replacing

FA: Michael Law, 1988

The next area is a red streaked wall 20m walk around to the left Spiral Corpse

Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Up little corner and left into hump move. Up slab and bulge, pumpy moves out R to clip anchors

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2019

The next area is 20m further left and is a obvious overhang.

Start: Up centre of yellow wall.

The BRs on this climb are well past their best.

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'. Traverse R then up arete to lower off. Rebolted.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 1m right of UA up to DBB.

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date.

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

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