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Sissy Crag

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Summary

Big, orange, chalky wave of Sandstone. The obvious main wall is about 30m long.

© (StuartE)

Description

Sissy is one of the best steep bouldering venues in Sydney. It has been bouldered on for years resulting in some great problems and eliminates. The crag is at its best in winter as in summer the spooge sets in and things can become more than a little greasy. The crag is sheltered during bad weather and whilst many parts stay dry during and immediately after rain, seepage starts a few hours afterwards, so it's not the ideal wet weather venue. However, the Travis area always seems to be dry. There are some excellent test-pieces here, most of which are short and powerful.

Most problems are done WITHOUT heel hooking, unless specified with "HH". This is how they are graded and described. By all means use your heels, but expect to be the odd one out! (And don't be spraying about how easy you found a "no heels" problem if you heelhooked it!).

In the descriptions "L" denotes left-hand, "R" denotes R hand and "M" denotes match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.

Comprehensive video topo by Devin

© (StuartE)

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Approach

Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. After dropping through the small escarpment the track doubles back to the left along the base, and soon you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.

© (StuartE)

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the main section of the crag where you will find the majority of the problems. There a few other problems if you keep walking but none as good as you what you can find here.

This is the route that starts at V0 "What am I doing here?" - 4 U-Bolts + Anchors.

Traverse the low ledge rightwards. Move up via a two finger pocket. Not Recommended. Please don't do this problem as the holds are getting too polished on the penis cling. Bill Smith is a much better warmup.

Just left of 'Penis Cling' start on the juggy ledge and continues up the slopey arete.

L1, R2, L3, R4, M4 A Classic two move wonder.Knock off a grade for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. I'm told that it was also done static by Fred Nicole during a visit at V10'ish?

Start as for 'Penis Cling' but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp.

Same as Penis Cling, but starting with right hand on the undercling to the right of the left undercling. Peter

Named for the people who insist that this be a separate climb from the original because it isn’t a sit start. Exactly the same as Penis Cling, just don’t sit to start. Instead start with your left on the far foot and pull on awkwardly, crossed under with your left hand, and completely locked on your right shoulder.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 15 Jun 2019

Sit start rail left of Penis Cling side pull. Use sloper with right hand and finsh out left

FA: gavin portier

Start on the far left rail and traverse all the way to the chin-up bar. Finishing with both hands matched.

Sit start. Then power your way up the right hand side of the penis cling. Fun

Probably impossible to repeat as LeBrenton's exact and undoubtedly desperate sequence been lost into obscurity. It's known to be underglinged all the way to the top using the hardest method known to man and is said to be a Crag Classic.

After the finish of SNC, link into Zac's Highball.

Start up just right of 'Summer Night City' and move right through a series of two finger pockets before finishing at an obvious jug above 'The House With No Steps' with a fern stuck in it.

From the jug in the break right of SNC finish up to the slot.

M1, L2, R3, L4, M4

Kneebar/heel helps.

M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick.

FA: Gavin Portier

All the way to the top jug.

Finish same for HUOY.

L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

Bowels of the Devil finishing up For Sissies. Probably where BotD should have finished.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 4 Aug 2019

Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 20 Aug 2019

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 12 Aug 2018

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 16 Nov 2019

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5

'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.

Start with one hand on the round blob in roof 1.5m back from jug and one hand on the jug. Smear hard and climb into Silent Bob.

FA: Damien Alexander, 13 Sep 2015

Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above BOTD's layaway. Stay below the good holds.

Up Not for Sissies via the undercling. Easy if you’re tall, nails if you’re not.

Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourelf to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.

No-foot. From a good slopey hold to the jug.

Same as for 'Blame 1' but using the left hand in the pocket.

Same as for 'Blame 2' except that the right hand is in the pocket instead of the left.

Same as for 'Blame 3' but you start from lower and can you use your feet. M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9.

Start on the pull-up jug and reverse The Problem of 1993. Once you reach the Dentalectomy holds, move up to the top of the seam (on the holds that are off for Dentalectomy) and traverse through the last 2 metres, finishing on the hold above the Dentalectomy slopers and start hold.

Start as for Dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar.

Travis B.

Dylan Soin

As for Dentalectomy until THE slopers below the last jug. Keep moving left to top at the next jug. As usual, no heels.

M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5

A classic. Harder for shorties.

From the pocket, traverse right for a somewhat fun (but short) warm up.

From the Start jug of WAIDH, drop down onto the slopers and traverse right to the start holds of JOF. Reach up to the slopey pinch and then to the highest obvious finish hold directly above that. Alternatively, finish up JOF, but without an extra gold star for your refrigerator.

Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates.

M5, L6, R7, M7

Can also be done as a dyno without using the crappy arete pinch (6) at a slighty easier grade.

From a jug down low, go right and up the arete.

Same as for 'Gladheateher' but skip the arete and dyno instead.

1,2,7,3,4. Start on the low jug, head right to the underclings and into 'Bill Smith'

Link Jerk Off into Short Circuit. A warm up pumper for the longer link ups.

1,2,3,4 A variant of 'Jerk Off'. From the underclings, go directly to 'Bill Smith' second to last hold. Easier for the tall.

2, 7 (on previous topo)

M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4

Nice, juggy warm up.

Start up Bill Smith, into Mr Smiley, into Foam and finish up Vitamin C or Vitamin X.

Start as for 'Bill Smith' but from the huge jug (7) Dyno rightwards to the hold left of Mr Smiley's finish (with the little fern poking out)

mattias braach-maksvytis

From the eliptical hold on the right of the roof, move left into and finish up 'Bill Smith'.

Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder?

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jul 2020

M5 R6 M8 L9 M9 L7 M7 L3 R4 M4 Move through 'Bill Smith' into 'Blinky Bill' and then back to finish up 'Bill Smith' (With good bunch of intermediates thrown in for good measure!)

M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet.

Climb Mr Smiley across into Vitamin C or Vitamin X.

Start in the couple of pockets in the roof, explode out for the slope lip, up the prow and then continue on to finish - one of Sissy's highest problems. Classic!

Start as for Foam, and from slopey lip move left into Mr Smiley and then back right to the jug.

One arm campus from the big jug on Foam to the sloper rail.

FA: Ben Barin

Link 'Mr Smiley' into Foam - the big jug is out (use 3 finger pocket next to it).

As for Vitamin C but go RH to the triangle instead of matching the high rail. No heels.

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

Same as Vitamin C, but eliminate hold 3.

Just like 'Hands Off My Detonator' except that you start with a heel hook over left.

Link into and finish up 'Hands Off My Detonator'

Travis B

L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5

Classic Sissy toughie. Wait for a cold day. Many ways of doing it. No heels (or it becomes I've Got My Tie On V6)

Hands Off My Detonator. Campussing. 2 known ascents. Sharik Walker 2nd ascent.

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Low start to Hands Off My Detonator.

FA: Matt Wrigley

FA: Matt Gugel

M11, L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 Another classic. Everyone has their own favourite beta, but good footwork is the key. (Becomes 'Mavis' V8 if both pinches are held before gaining edge 10- 'Contrived' and hard)

Sit start to Travis starting from a matched undercling under the roof.

Travis B.

Start up Spooged, reverse Foam, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

FA: Neil Wallace, 16 May 2015

FA: Sharik Walker

Variant of Buge but keep going up further and further until you can crawl into the scoop made by the big flake. Scary

From the big flat hold just right of Travis Start move to the undercut just left of the Havana Pinch and pop to the sloper just right of the Detonator finish.

FA: Aaron Liu

Start as for Spooged and finish up Our Man From Havana.

M1, R2, R3, L4, M4

A classic but nasty shoulder press - You'll either find it too easy or bloody desperate.

M5, R6, L3, R7, L8, M8

A nice warm up.

A variant of 'The Pillar' but without using feet. Start on the two positive crimps on the lip and then 1,6,3,7,8

Same as 'The Mind Is a Terrible Thing To Taste' but no matching in the break. Foot-Free problem!

M5, R6, L7, R12, M12 Right side of the pillar. Pretty good.

No feet problem traversing left to right along the slopey break.

FA: David James

M9, L10, R11, L12, M12. Right of the pillar, aim for the good pocket. Frustrating!

FA: David James

M9, L10, R11, R12, M12.

Same as Storm Troopers but throw right hand to pocket.

As for Rebel Scum but don't use the right hand undercut. Apparently "easier" than using it......

FA: Ben Barin

Start on the ultra slopey sloper just above the lip. Move up to the next slopey rail, then left to the right-leaning slopey rail then straight up. As is the case with sissy, this was FA'd as a no-heel-hook climb. V7-8 if you use your heels.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Peter

Start at the back of the little cave and follow the obvious line of edges to join and finish up 'Sista Soulja'. Heels are in.

M1, R3, M4

Start matched on the slopey rail (as for Verboten ) and go up the ear with right hand then to top.

M1, R2, L3, R4, M4 (HH)

Classic little problem

Start on the big sloper (1) and gain the tiny sloper left of the ear (3) with your right, then make a big move to finish on (4)

Eliminate, but quite fun. Same as Moustaffa but instead of grabbing the ear with your right hand reach a little higher and use a pinch (the ear is off).

No toes above the head or any other shennanigans, Domo Arigato.

Grab the edge with your right hand, the little slope with your left and then the top with your right hand. Watch the superman swing!

Variant to Go Granny Go - put your feet out over right and spoil all the fun

FA: Matt Gugel

Start in the roof on two slopey pinches, out to the edge and up.

Body tension is the key. For the tall, its easier to start with your feet over right.

1,3,11,13,4,9 (on the next topo)

Start on the big slope, get the ear (3) with your left hand and match (11) before dropping down to (13) and traversing the slopers rightwards to finish.

Start offthe two edges on the right side of the scoop, crimp your way up avoiding any of the holds on 'The Edge Ladder'. (use a tiny right of the triangle edge). Variant - 'Pants on' V4- Use triangle crimp (10)

L7, R8, R9, L10, R13, L12, M12

Watch the last move. Just go again with the right. !!!AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged with holds 8 and 10 being smashed off. It still goes but at a few grades harder and is certainly not as good.!!

6,3,8,9,5 From the big, flat edge, go up using good edge. Very Nice.

Start on (6) move left to holds (3),(2) and (1) gain the triangle crimp on the Edge Ladder, make a cool move across the scoop to the good edge of 'Verboten' and finish as for 'Verboten'. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged with the triangle hold of the Edge Ladder being smashed off. It has been reclimbed at around V6!!

L1, R2, R3, L4, R5, M5

L6, R7, L8, L9, R10, M10 From big flat edge, use a good right hand hold and do a big move to the top. Get a swing going.

Link the start of Heaven's Gate/Blitzkrieg into Nicole. Estimated grade, assume it's been done as it's Sissy and everything has been done

M11, R12, L7, R6, M6, R3, L4, R5, M5 Hard first move but it's worth it! Not listed in sydney bouldering Guide, but in online guide @ Australian Bouldering.

FA: Gavin Portier

M1,R2,L3,R4,L2,L5,R6,M6

Whilst made to look easy by some, this is a bicep destroying move. Bring out your big guns.

Liting Xu

Abraham

Climb Steve Austin then reverse Burst and finish on the jug.

FA: Daniel da Silva

From the starting pockets of Mike's Five, move left into a set of underclings and straight up to finish on the jug, without using the two finger pocket. Hard.

FA: Neil Wallace

M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12

Don't bust a tendon!

Mike's Five, eliminating the nasty two finger pocket.

Climb burst from left to right finishing on the jug.

R10,L13,R14,L15,M15,L16,M16,L6,M6. The jug in the break is out. Very good sloper traverse. Another to save for a cold day. Has been done footless at V9.

Link Mike's Five into 'Burst'. Tough but good. Jug in the break is out.

Bursting campussing. Yes, thats right. No jug as for usual Bursting rules.

FA: Fergus McDonald

Just right of the pockets on Mikes Five is a long not-so good-hold in a little scoop. Start from this and move up and rightwards through an assortment of bad holds to finish in the break where the vegetation grows.

Traverse left and then to top hold with ferns sticking out.

Start matched on undercut approx 2m right of John and move up to a good jug. Peter

Start matched on the slopey legde 1m or so right of TLTL and move up through the pockets on the right before moving left to the jug on TLTL.

Start with both hands on the prominent cling. Rawr your way backwards. Commit your paw to the toe hook and pull yourself over the lip. Finish off by matching on the top ledge.

Start below 'The Sexy Wall Traverse' and undercling out the roof, straight up through the huge pockets. Can be done footless at V2

A no-foot variant of 'I'm too sexy by far'.

Starting on huge pocket jugs on the lip approx 3m right of ITSFMC, traverse the wall rightwards finishing on the holds above Mikes Five. 'Excellent'

Walk about 50m after the end of the first section of wall to find 'The Next Episode'.

If you’re ever at Sissy crag and want to climb a new classic that actually tops out then give this one a shot! (We even made the landing nice and flat 😉).

Warning 29/08/2020: the start holds are moving and will end up breaking on someone. Chossy top.

George Li

Start same for The Next Episode however traverse further right into the scoop and top out directly upwards. Grade ranging from V6 - V8

Walk another 30m along the cliff to find this cave. You better like spiders!

Start same for left side but going straight up and then right using huge undercling.

Sit start on the left on the flat ledge. Move right and out the roof via some good holds to finish on the jug rail.

As for Left Side but keep heading right to finish on the jug on the face. Peter

From the back of the cave, follow crappy holds and head out the roof to a big flake to finish on the jug over the lip.

Start with a left hand on the horn in the roof and a right hand pinching the lip above it. Keep going right.

From the finishing hold of Pork Platter make two nice moves out the roof to the feature, then two tough moves up and to the right, then finish on the obvious jug in the break.

FA: Unknown

Technical smearing, padding and slabbing at its best. Very sequency with every move harder than previous.

FA: Gavin Porter, 1998

Line up right side of slab. Start over ankle breaking rock up faint groove to join edges that increase in size with height.

FA: Steve Jones / Gavin Portier, 1995

Start as for the Edge Ladder but move left after gaining the triangle crimp (10) to finish up 'Verboten'. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged.

Link into and finish up Buge.

1,2,10,11,12

Cool problem I got shown by someone. Probably been done many times before. Heels are in.

Start as for the Edge Ladder but from the triangle crimp move to 3,4,5. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged.

1,2,7,3,8 on the pillar.

Can't remember who showed me this, but a very cool momentum move. You'll probably find yourself trying to catch (3) on the move.

M1, L2, R3, L4, M4

Using holds (4) and (9) and a small undercut/sidepull on the back wall, mantle into and sit in the scoop. Probably been done many times before.

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