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West Roseville Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Daniel Butler Adrian Kladnig Antony Winchcombe Sean Barnes Sam Small Will Eyland Doug

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. West Roseville 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.791012, 151.164943

summary

A small North Shore crag that rises up over a choss band. An interesting range of moderate to difficult sport, bouldering, trad and toprope routes.

description

A North Shore zero access sport crag! Has a number of cool little lines, including a great little 24 that busts through a roof! Climbs described left to right.

access issues

The crag is in Lane Cove National Park so no dogs, fires or rubbish. Also be mindful of the neighbors as it is quite close to their back yard.

approach

Park on the corner of Shirley Rd and Valleyview Close, Roseville. Wander down hill into the bush trending left and you'll find the crag. Or take a faint track between number 130 and a light pole, past a boulder on your left, then veer right then back left to the top of the cliff to come out directly above Thunderbird. Descend to the right via chopped steps and boulder scramble.

ethic

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

inherited from North Shore

history

Heavily chipped and now overgrown

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Thunderbird

A great little climb in the backyard of the North Shore!

Start: Marked "24 Thunderbird". The first climb you reach after the walk down on the far left of the crag.

Over chossy undercut onto balancy, slabby face (1 carrot, 1 FH) up to old blue sling on RB. Out to lip of roof 1 carrot and 1 fixed hanger. Then go diagonally through roof passing 2 ring bolts. Ignore previous route info this is how the route is done.

FA: Munch, 1994

FFA: David Coward, 1995

24 Sport 8m, 7
3 Thunderbird Variant

Start 2m to the right of 'Thunderbird', up the obvious chossy corner crack. The crack narrows from hands to thin fingers up to underside of roof. Go back diagonally through roof 2 ring bolts to lip then over top, basically climb through roof is in reverse to Thunderbird.

FA: Munch, 1994

21 Mixed trad 8m, 2
4 Cats Underpants

Up the face beside a right facing flared corner crack. Move left around the arete and up face passing one questionable ring bolt in the process.Top rope off a tree back from the edge, careful not to get your rope wedged in the crack as it widens near the top.

FA: Munch, 1994

17 Top rope 7m, 1
5 Toad Hall

Start just right of crack on big jug and left of Deal with it. Crux at top.

FA: Munch, 1994

23 Sport 8m, 3
6 Deal With It

Follow line of fixed hangers start below 1st hanger, add a grade if you do the sit down boulder problem under the overhang.

FA: 1994

22 Sport 8m, 3
7 Flame Trees

Start: Just right of Deal With It at right end of cliff.

Follow the line of 3 green ring bolts to top, then single suspect gal carrot(had 2 carrots at the top)and slopy moss mantle top out. Massive tree belay, no lower offs.

FA: Munch, 1993

19 Sport 7m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Crackit

Big layback to start then jam deep into the dirty crack avoiding the ironstone face plates as much as possible.

15 Trad 7m
9 Snapit

Start 1m to the right of Crackit. Up over mantle and through big moves on committing crimps. This route is SHARP! Three carrot bolts, all easiest clipped overhead and a two carrot toprope anchor.

A V1 boulder problem with no name now a bolt ladder.

FFA: Daniel Butler & DenisW, 24 Jul 2018

15 Sport 7m, 3

1.1. Graffiti Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.790841, 151.164934

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 1

Stand start in break left of the runnel. Head up and left to top out.

V2/3 Boulder 5m
2 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 2

Stand start below runnel on good pocket, head straight up runnel to top out.

V1 Boulder 5m
3 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 3

Stand start in low break, head up via small holds to top out.

V6 Boulder 5m
4 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 4

Stand start on undercling, head left and up to top out.

V4 Boulder 5m
5 5

Start on undercling, head up and right via broken pocket.

BoulderProject 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
15 Crackit Trad 7m 1. West Roseville
Snapit Sport 7m, 3 1. West Roseville
17 Cats Underpants Top rope 7m, 1 1. West Roseville
19 Flame Trees Sport 7m, 3 1. West Roseville
V1 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 2 Boulder 5m 1.1. Graffiti Wall
21 Thunderbird Variant Mixed trad 8m, 2 1. West Roseville
22 Deal With It Sport 8m, 3 1. West Roseville
V2/3 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 1 Boulder 5m 1.1. Graffiti Wall
23 Toad Hall Sport 8m, 3 1. West Roseville
V4 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 4 Boulder 5m 1.1. Graffiti Wall
24 Thunderbird Sport 8m, 7 1. West Roseville
V6 Graffiti Wall Warm Up 3 Boulder 5m 1.1. Graffiti Wall
? 5 BoulderProject 4m 1.1. Graffiti Wall
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