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Satan

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 29
  • Aka: Happy Valley
16

Seasonality

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Summary

A small crag to answer your evil needs.

Description

A 'user-friendly' (flat landing, not too high) crag offering a handful of short, powerful problems on frictiony rock. Sharp crimps, slopers and pinches are on the menu. However, the place has now become fully overgrown and a mess with many fallen trees and branches.

Mostly stays dry in the rain

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park at the end of Farrer Place, Davidson. Keep on walking through the cul-de-sac, turn right at the bottom of the hill, walk 150 across a rock platform and past a tennis court. Past the tennis court the track narrows. Walk down the rock platform. The crag is under this and accessed from the left.

Same approach as Satan, only you turn left just over 5m past the tennis court. Drop down from the rock you are standing on and you will see the long length of flakey overhangs

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered by Michael Myers in 1994. Developed by Peter Balint, Angela Connolly and Neil Wallace.

Routes

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Grade Route

Further right of the main cave and Take Away Flake. Stand start in the scoop, up via undercling.

Sit start from the bottom left of the large shark tooth shaped section of the rock. Tha name comes from the shark tooth shape and the incredibly brittle gap that you use to reach the left (and only) jug on the ridge. If you are light enough, you can probably knee bar the gap and lower the grade. From the left jug, transition to the right side using the generous sandy pocket and top out.

Location was wrong, trying to correct it by adding the "-" to Lat field. to confirm by local if correct now.

FA: Cam, 30 May 2020

Start under the small rooflet on the main cliff, move right to some positive and curvy edges, then up. Halfway through the mantle the name should become apparent.

Start on the ledge on the back wall. Various methods to get up into the scoop.

Some nice steep climbing out leftwards, then a longish move to the lip followed by a mantle.

Start on the small edge 1.5m left of 'Lucifer's Loins'. Move powerfully left through a variety of slopers, pinches and small edges and a tough cut loose, finishing up Devil Child.

Start as for 'Devil in a Blue Dress' but do not use any of the holds left of its initial features - including big footholds. Finish out right on the jug (before Devil Child).

From two reasonable slopers, move powerfully right and into the roof, then pull hard for the top.

A desperate intro into Devil Child. From the 2 small slopers left of the scoop, reach, reach, reach rightwards, finishing up Devil Child.

From the big holds just left of 'Sign of the Cross', mantle up onto the ledge.

From the 2nd lowest of the sharp curving edges, gain the slopey lip and traverse right to the top of Devil Child.

Start as for Rosary Crucifixion, but go straight up. Either walk off right or down climb.

Thin and nasty. From Rosary Crucifixion's starting hold, traverse left via a sharp crimp to the jugs (start of 'Stairway to Heaven' - link them together if you're keen).

A one move wonder, that's even harder no the hold has broken. From the undercling and the side pull jump your feet on and fire away.

Sit start on a reasonable hold at the far left of the cliff. Forget your feet and pull up to 2 small holds and then move right to the sloper and up. Finish on the jugs or continue up to 'Stairway to Heaven'.

Grab the big jug on the lip and have an enjoyable wander up the arete.

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