Routes in Lane Cove

Start as for deadringer, head left into the arete and straight up. No resting in the cave halfway up

Stand start on right sidepull and left pinch. Head up via some big moves on pockets to a committing top move.

Up the crack feature into the end of Deadringer.

Delicately up the pillar/slab.

Jam the obvious crack for the grade, or layback for a V0.

Dyno for the small ledge then tenuously up the arete. Stepping on the block or flake is out.

Easy wall with ledges 3m R of Crack.

Dyno for the big slightly sloping ledge, then mantle straight onto it.

Establish via poxy chipped holds then delicately up the slab. Avoid the chips for an extra grade and a measure of dignity.

One for Martijn van Eijkelenborg in return for all those 9 Degrees horror problems: run like crazy up the approach block then launch onto slab and finish with no hands!

Lichen-free corner 2m right of "Let's do a Runner, Bro!"

Undercling the little block and walk up the slab.

Layaway the vertical crack then mantle, avoiding the ledge.

First climb of the caves on the far left.

Start under face on flat rail, come out to lip and mantel on to the face for a slab finish.

OPEN PROJECT

Start with a foot jam and hands on jug rail inside the cave. crack climb your way out of the cave and up the face.

OPEN PROJECT

To the right of "Crack Project" Climb through horizontal slopey scoops out onto the face and to fairly high top out. Not many feet, you may have to search around for the starting position.

Start on jugs at roughly eye height on left side of seam. Move up to good left pinch and find a high right hand on other side of seam. Reset feet and squeeze up through the middle.

DO NOT CLIMB WITHIN 3 DAYS OF RAIN. THE HOLDS WILL BREAK AND YGD.

Start left hand in the big pocket jug and climb up the face to the right and through the slab top out. Worth checking the crimp rail before climbing to clean out sand.

Climb the face to the left of The Breach. Techy moves up horizontal cracks and pockets to a sloper finish. Arete is out.

Eson Zhao

King Line up the arete; start hugging the bottom and slap your way to victory.

Start left pinch and right sidepull on the face to the right of The Breach. climb the face over the top. Arete is in for hands only.

Right in the middle of the face to the right of 'Serpents Touch'. Semi-standing start using the left hand sloper and the right hand vertical ridge/pinch. Fly straight up the face, staying in your lane. (The sit start is still v4 but more desperate.)

Easiest way down from the top of the Kiddy Pool Block. Walk down slabby face and stem out to the sturdy tree right next to it until a comfortable height to drop.

Seated start under arete of ‘down climb.’ Right hand sloper, right toe hook, left hand small edge. Up arete via big slopey pinch. May be v5?

In the tunnel between the two boulders. Climb up comfy jugs and big crimp edges to an easy top out. Good for a warm up.

Watch out for the 2 large bolts that stick out of the ground right below the climb.

Link Swimmming Lesson into Calm Waters via the obvious low traverse. (Probably v4 but with traffic will become easier.)

Start in the jug rail on the walking track side of the boulder. Traverse to the left and head up the arete; big slap move to sloper and top out to the left. Make sure you are a competent swimmer or have a swimming instructor with you who is trained in rescue...

OPEN PROJECT

Start as for "Swimming Lesson" but head straight up lightly ovewrhung face through slopers to a slab finish. Falling off is an option; but not a good one.

OPEN PROJECT

Start off of the slab on the left. Pull onto the rocks left of the slab and traverse your way along delicate feet, high crimps and sharp holds. You're done when you're holding the pinch on the arete on the right with both hands.

Top Ledge is out, but anything else goes. (Feel free to rename if you get FA!)

On the Wave Block next to/near the Kiddy Pool Block. Start in crack and jump to slap over top of boulder. Mantel over on slopers to finish.

Start left hand next to your foot and right on diagonal palm. Stand and traverse to high crimps and top out above.

Top gets pretty dirty and can be covered in moss. Bring a big brush.

Start on low underclings then gain height via edges. Right hand push and stretch for the top. If you don’t use the right hand push you haven’t done the problem.

Start on holds at chest height (LHS side pull is standard), gain height then grab the higher jugs. Use wither side, or both, of the bulge to reach the top.

Start matched on sloper and work your way up the arête.

Start up ramp to right of fig. Grab jug and heave up. Bad landing.

Follow the break below the roof (Right to left) until it gets too slopey to stay on.

Traverse the holds along the lip. Very slopey in places. Either direction.

Traverse left the big dyno up and to the right? Chipped holds?

Diagonal traverse. Foot free. Bad landing

Reach deep into cave for starting hold then up

up to seam below tree, sidepulls

Right of pole. Start on slopey holds then big dyno out right and up.

Holds to immediate left of pole

Up on whatever sequence of holds works

Up 1m left of pole, finish just left of boulder capping wall.

Up 2m left of pole

The rightmost arete of slither wall. Start low and swing up on a variety of holds. Match at the top to finish. Wet and slimy after rain.

Closed project (cave markings, signs of midden). Start on underclings to the left of the detached section (Diagonal traverse) then up to good holds before a powerful dyno. Bad landing.