Help

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

These climbs are all located around the main block. There are various single and double stainless carrot top rope anchors that require bolt plates.

The easiest way onto the block is via the Access Route on the north west corner. Otherwise solo or lead one of the easier routes. Descent is via a double ring bolt rap. Remaining rusted FHs replaced March 2011.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park or leave your bike at Tambourine Bay Reserve car park. Walk south for about 5 minutes passing an historic well and following the power lines just past the boatshed until you come across a large 10m high isolated boulder with an overhang on the face overlooking the water.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

8m right of FH, at left side of small cave. Gain the sloping ledge then climb to the top. Sloping ledge is covered with a thick layer of green moss. BB.

Access to top of boulder. Solo or protect with cam in break. Hidden hold on the first ledge.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2007

The perfect traverse for the beginner. From the far left of the ledge make your way to the far right and back. Balancy.

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

The first climb on the back wall, just right of a small suffering tree below a faint groove. A shoulder-wrenching move for tall people; shorter folk may need to be ingenious. BB at top.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2000

2m right of ItG, below a bulge at mid height. Fingery moves to gain a stance below the bulge. Climb this on the left. BB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

In the middle of the wall below a large hole. Climb up to this hole and then move left and up. A variant also exits right and up. BB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

In slight groove 2m right of MF. Up groove to sloping holds and continue to top. BB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

1m right of A, below smooth wall. Gain a horizontal break then straight up. BB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

Start below the arete at the right side of the back wall. Climb onto ledge then up the arete on solid holds. BB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

Up VFTE to ledge then move down to reach holds on the wall below a horizontal break. Climb this wall to the top. BB. Direct start is worth 19.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

Climb the short crack to the ledge and follow Cruel Fate to the top.

FA: ian Ryan, 2001

In the gully on the south side of the block. Start marked PSR.

FA: Unknown

Located on the main path, on the same block as Pretty Short Route, and feature good mantles on good rock, though they are very short.

Sit start on left side of arete in the hole between rocks, using slot on right side of arete and flat hold just below lip. Straight up, using the corner to mantle onto 30 degree slab above.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 30 Sep

Link from NTFYDBTFYNRN into SOOHS.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 30 Sep

1m left of NTFYDBTFYNRN. Sit start with RH on flat hold below lip. Up to slopey crimp over lip, lunge up and left, then step over lip. Probably easier if you're tall or really short.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 30 Sep

1m left of SOOHS. Arkward sit start using diagonal rail at waist height. Smear to pull to higher LH rail, RH slopey crimp and mantle the lip.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 30 Sep

Start below the overhang on the left side of the front wall. Boulder up and left onto the south wall, passing some bollards and several breaks (good cams) for a final challenging exit. DBB

Direct start 3m right of Cruel Fate Direct - nice boulder moves (20) lead to the bollard and continue up.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

As for TD. Climb up to the large flake and move right and continue up. Tricky exit. DBB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

On the main block facing the water. Easy but balancy low traverse with generally small holds. STarts left side of wall facing away from the water, finishes on your choice of three bucket jugs, just around the coner at right end. I'm sure many have done this, but for V0 it's quite good, with variations possible.

Set: Tim Clarkson, 30 Sep

The higher traverse ending to MSML. At the 3/4 mark heading right where it crosses Mission Impossible, stay high for a long reach as you cross the void, aiming for crimps and juggy hole on right lip of the cave. Easier if you're over 174cm, more delicate if you're not.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 30 Sep

Two toprope carrots are located above the middle of the wall facing the water, above a giant hanging flake. A desperate toprope problem.

FA: Unknown

At right side of the front face, below the overhang. Climb up to the overhang and exit this at its highest point. Climb diagonally left across the wall on improving holds. BB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

Start on slab 1m right of ATV. Climb up the arete on either side. Toprope DBB.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2001

Arete 1m right of AtV. Up the arete. BB.

FA: Unknown

On neighbouring wall, immediately uphill and to the right of FH and K3, opposite the main toprope block. Sit start on jug shelf. Up trending left via your choice of crimpers to jug under edge of the headwall. Variations possible.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 9 Sep

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Main Crag.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文