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Lindfield West

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 35
24

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Summary

Short cliff and boulders in Seven Little Australians Park.

Description

Short cliff with slabs and cracks next to path with pleasant bush valley outlook. A bit of leaf litter and lichen as well.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park opposite 17 Slade Ave Lindfield at the entrance to Seven Little Australians Park. Follow the track through the stone archway about 120m downhill until it turns left and passes under the lookout and some short walls. Climbs described from left to right facing cliff.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

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Probably climbed and abseiled in the past by 1st Lindfield Scouts as their hut is in sight, and Sun, Surf and Sandstone - A Rockclimber's Guide to Sydney mentions "there are some old manky bolts to be found about the place" (on Bunty's Block).

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Routes

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Like it's namesake, nearly everything on Bunty's Block is reprehensible: the rock is gritty and slippery; apparently secure holds give way under the least provocation; honest attempts to grasp or stand are met with sudden unexpected breakages; a thick layer or moss, lichen and dirt conceals almost everything of use; and the pockets are generally full of spiders, dead insects, dirt or unknown sticky residues.

Of course the final unsporting and surreptitious secrets of Bunty's Block block lie in the topouts: a good 10 feet to the ground, and nearly all vile slopes lubricated with dead lichen.

Turn right as the track turns left to get there, but why would you climb anywhere else?

Up relatively easy ramp to ghastly slopy topout.

Flake and breaks (haha)

Scoop with sidepulls: foot in hole, achieve break, then flail for mighty top lump.

Mossy arete with sidepulls, both strange and surprising highball - needs a brush!

Old fashioned chipped staircase with 2 woefully old rusted carrot "loweroffs" and another further back ...

"What is the meaning of this abominable travesty all the way up this unspoilt bush cliff?" Captain Woolcot asked sternly.

"I was carvin' me name on the t-t-top," said Bunty, in a shaking voice. "How c-c-could I have ch-chipped them holds into the rock?"

"Ah!" said his father. "Chipped? Answer me at once."

"N-n-nothin'," he answered-"I never ch-chipped n-nothin' at all. The ch-ch-chisel was on the top of the block and the h-h-h-ammer wasn't even in me h-h-hand."

The Captain shook him until his teeth chattered. "Did you chip that cliff?" he demanded.

"N-n-no I n-never," Bunty whispered, white to the lips. "The ch-ch-chisel just dropped off the top and must 'ave chipped the cliff as it fell d-d-d-own."

"You contemptible young cur!" cried his father, pausing a moment when his arm ached with wielding the strap. "I'll thrash the mean spirit of cliff-chipping and climbing cowardice out of you, or kill you in the attempt!"

"He pushed up the narrow window, and with much difficulty forced his little fat body through"

Underhang on left end of block with finger crack, pockets, and abundant moss above.

Short ironstone wall left of lookout

Crack on left

Straight up the middle.

Sharp ironstone arete on right of wall

--------------- Divider --------------- Other formations here.

Bulge under lookout with sloped topout

Capped arete - kneebar the gap then throw for knob. Beware bad backwards landing.

Rather blank looking wall

Grey wall with prominent ironstone rims right on path - watch for walkers.

Wide corner crack with bits of rock and veg in it.

Three-step mantle. Can be downclimbed.

Nice layback crack.

Another three-step mantle that can be downclimbed.

Ironstone arete with slopey topout

Wall 1m right of Judy

Wall just left of little low overhang

Just right of little low overhang, harder establishment then up slab.

Hard start then up lichen slab

Easy layback corner and slab

Travserse from slab corner to Martha to The General, or the revserse,.

Wall with a bit of lichen and grit capped by leaf litter.

Right end of wall next to flake. Throw for slopers and slab.

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