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Description

Wall to the north and west of the Courtyard Area. Basically you squeeze through the chimney and it is the climbs left and right.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Go through the chimney at the northern end of the Courtyard.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route

Turn left for the first few routes, even walk left around the back of the block. Routes R to L.

Up steep flake 2m R of BC chimney. Funkies then lower off or dirty mantle

FA: Mikl Law

Chimney on west face of block. Natural anchor at top and rap off rings into courtyard. The Usual Chimney style.

Arete right of Train. Slap up ignoring screeching cockatoos.

FA: Mikl Law

Gets harder with height. Two carrots. Single ring belay. This is really a one move wonder, with the carrot protecting the top out move.

FFA: Sam Small, 12 Apr 2017

Right of walk through chimney, Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it.

Head through the chimney and turn R to reach the following climbs, described R to L.

Start: Rounded arete at the right end of YKS wall at the end of the access chimney from the Courtyard. Up arete and holdless rounded slab and right. 2 rings, optional carrot on easy finish. Carrot anchors near tree.

FA: Mikl Law

Old climb marked with "faint" painted square 2m from right end of wall. Ironstone crimpies to hole, then right easily past good cams (and old ring and bolt holes). Bottom half has very poor protection. Various carrot anchors. Maybe 18 to toprope?

Euphoria, 3 funky sections with a slabby finish. 2 carrot anchor up top

FA: Mikl Law

Start just left of thin crack up wall into crack and layback. 2 carrot anchor at top (easily retrievable)

FA: Jeff Crass

Arete at northern (left) end of YKS wall with 2 TR carrots. Layback the twin crack features. To lead, maybe 18 with poor pro and a hard exit.

Wall a meter left of easy crack. Top out or lower off

FA: Mikl Law

Thin slab with 2 BRs, finish right, straight over blocks, or left.

Flake 1m left of Young Kids on Speed. Clip carrots on YKoS, dirty topout or lower off.

FA: Mikl Law

A short face climb at the left end of YKS wall. Cams in breaks to rounded top out. Needs DBB

FA: A.Batey, 2012

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