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Brendons Blackboard Is Covered In Chalk

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Summary

While The Blackboard doesn't offer quantity it offers some quality problems. This crag offers some unique features at the far end with a few more problems yet to go.

Description

The Blackboard is located in the ever growing and popular North Shore. West facing and open to the sun this little wonder will always be warm during winter but sadly quite warm during summer.

The main "Spider Stairs" wall has a fair amount of washed down dirt and rocks on the top. A top rope could be safe as it's about 5m high.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park on Rembrandt Drive in Middle Cove at the entrance to Harold Reid Reserve.

Grab your pad, walk through the Harold Reid Reserve gates and follow the hiking track to your left for about 125m until you see the top of the cliff about 20m to the left, before the track takes a left downward turn.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

The Blackboard was located by Ranger Dave Archer mid 2013 during The Great Bouldering Boom.

An amazing little crag offering several unique features with easy access for boulderers and their crash pads.

Development of The Blackboard started in early March 2014 by Ewa Siedlecka and Brendon Flanagan.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 1 meter right of SFC. Using the two deep scoops to start, head up and tend right to top out above the right hand scoop.

FA: Ewa Siedlecka, 2 Apr 2014

The first FA of the crag. Facing the corner make your way up by bridging between the left and right boulder

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2 Apr 2014

Around the next corner from WMRDG is a round, bulgy face. Climb up it, staying towards the centre.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Well, not that lovely, but OK. Seated start on the side pulls just left of the crack about 15m right of LSF. Move left and up, finishing leftwards.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

The right side of the crack. Hands on right only. Nice knee bar!

Starting about 2m left of Spider Stairs and about 0.5m right of gully. Straight up using nice side pulls.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Starting 0.5m left of Spider Stairs, straight up through a series of pockets and holds.

The most unique feature of the crag. Starting to the left of the arête using the evident head high break as the start. Tend right and follow the evident line of jugs to the top. A V1 that gets the heart pumping!

FA: GChris, 20 Jun 2014

A beautiful problem! Starting about 3m right of Spider Stairs. The right side of the same scoop. Up groovy lay aways.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Start up Spider Stairs till mid height, then finish up Scorpion Stairs.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Start up Scorpion Stairs and finish up Spider Stairs.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

A beautiful problem mingling balance, dedication and problem solving

Start 3m right of Spider Stairs by semi mantling the chest high ledge up to a delicious side pull. Traverse your way along to the right using gastons, crimpers, side pulls and underclings till all holds above you disappear and you are forced to follow the holds down.

Finish by walking off the right most section of the problem after working through two challenging crux's

A pleasure at any time of the day!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 26 Jun 2014

In the middle of the blankish face is a fine right leaning line. Mantle the bulgey start then go up the line heading rightish using the crimp.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

About 3m left of the cave. Up using good holds to stance, then using crimp move up to take slopey edge then top.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Starting 0.5m left of cave. Up the cave's left edge bearing leftwards.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Start in the middle of the cave, up to obvious incut, then move left to groovy holds and over.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Start in middle of cave. Up to obvious incut then straight over. Holds on left only in for feet.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

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