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Summary

A collection of walls just below the trail running parallel to Penrose St.

Description

Several separate walls offering bouldering up to 4-5m on generally good rock. Many walls gets sandy after rain and some walls are susceptible to lichen. Generally good landings.

Access issues

No known issues however this crag is right next to a popular walking trail and above a busy playing field.

Approach

Park near the play equipment on Penrose St and follow the trail into the bush, turning left when you hit the main trail. The crag is directly below the main trail. Easiest access is to head west until the trail drops down to the level of the base of the crag (shortly after the pipe) then follow the base of the crag. Alternative it's possible to access the crag from small gullies and drop downs just off the main trail.

Ethic

Don't damage any of the figs at all.

History

History timeline chart

Has seen come ascents in the past, but the history of this area is unknown.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on low underclings then gain height via edges. Right hand push and stretch for the top. If you don’t use the right hand push you haven’t done the problem.

FA: 26 Aug

Start on holds at chest height (LHS side pull is standard), gain height then grab the higher jugs. Use wither side, or both, of the bulge to reach the top.

FA: 27 Aug

Start matched on sloper and work your way up the arête.

Start up ramp to right of fig. Grab jug and heave up. Bad landing.

FA: 26 Aug

Follow the break below the roof (Right to left) until it gets too slopey to stay on.

Traverse the holds along the lip. Very slopey in places. Either direction.

Traverse left the big dyno up and to the right? Chipped holds?

Diagonal traverse. Foot free. Bad landing

FA: 26 Aug

Reach deep into cave for starting hold then up

FA: 26 Aug

up to seam below tree, sidepulls

FA: 26 Aug

Right of pole. Start on slopey holds then big dyno out right and up.

Holds to immediate left of pole

Up on whatever sequence of holds works

Up 1m left of pole, finish just left of boulder capping wall.

Up 2m left of pole

The rightmost arete of slither wall. Start low and swing up on a variety of holds. Match at the top to finish. Wet and slimy after rain.

FA: 30 Aug

Closed

Closed project (cave markings, signs of midden). Start on underclings to the left of the detached section (Diagonal traverse) then up to good holds before a powerful dyno. Bad landing.

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