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Routes in North Shore for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 189 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Blues Point Life Aquatic Wall
V3 Gold Amongst The Grains

Carrots now in place for those who wish to top rope this problem set at grade 17. Thanks to my BIC Ranger Dave for permission to establish top rope anchors for this climb. Sharing the love

Sit start same as ELAP. Move up to the top of the scoop and then left to the thin crimp. From there use the assortment of rounded side pulls to move up and top out slightly right, same as "STWS" and "RC"

Some challenging moves through the middle.

Boulder 6m
V3 Crimp And Save

A contrived climb with a powerful technical start.

Start just right of Perfect Flake, with this easy crack out of bounds!

Using smears and two side pulls head up to the bulge on the left above the out of bounds ledge line that's about head height. Keep moving up using controlled power (no Dynos) and mantle out.

As to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3.

Less is Best!

Boulder 3m
Blues Point Peeking Patch
V3 Coal Train Blues

After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see.

With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out.

This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds!

Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill...

FA:

Boulder 5m
V3 Saved By Ents

Start in front of square cutout a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to a slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging trees and grass. Enjoy the last hold and try and top out without aid from the Ents

If going for the Onsight, clean before you climb

For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge. Down climb is best to the left.

FA:

Boulder 4m
Kurraba Point Harbour Side Slabs The Steel Cap Slabs
V3 Ministry Of The Left

At the first Slab you come to start at the right hand side of the left arete. Undercling and side pull your way up and then enjoy the technical moves of this arete problem

From top to bottom the left hand is bound to the arete, while the right hand and both feet are free to wander!

Love the laybacks, delicate smears and some cool problem solving!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA:

Boulder 5m
V3 A Face Like An Anvell

You'll need to hit this one hard with big moves, but the holds aren't as lovely as they seem

Start 1m right of the arete in the Scoop.

Without using the arete to the left or the holds on the orange streak to the right, power up using the side pulls, sloping pinch and some solid reach

Finish on the ledge common to all the slab problems and then down climb via the method of your choice

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA:

Boulder 4m
V3 Brothers In Chalk

Some awesome balancing slab, full of commitment and trust!

Start facing the orange vertical streak about 1m left of the corner. Using some of the left most holds of "United By Brushes" and some thin, delicate bumps and pinches move up.

At the large ledge with the carved out indent the problem moves right to mingle with UBB. Here the large carved out area and the ledge is out of bounds! Use only the holds to the right along this ledge line to keep the grade!

Down climb the same you went up or via SCSC

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA:

Boulder 5m
The Spit Sandy Bay
V3 The White Line
Boulder
V3 7
Boulder
V3 8
Boulder
V3 14

Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave

Boulder 6m
V3 The Sandy Traverse

Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 10m
V3 Man Overboard

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
V3 Roaring Forties

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 3m
V3 25
Boulder
The Spit Pearl Bay The Pearl Bay Quarry
V3 Cripple Club Mantle

Start as for pearl, left hand up to the crimp on the arête and push out the mantle on the blank face

FFA: Mattias

FA: Probably lots of people

Boulder 3m
V3 7

a highly unusual problem - it's actually easier if you face away from the rock! Park your bum on the left side of the slopey ledge and reach up for the break. Very Cool, though I'm not sure if the Fonz would agree.

FA: Unknown

Boulder 4m
Balmoral Lawry Plunkett Reserve
V3 Ain't Nuthin But A Twang

Stand start on the jug on the lip and mantle up the face to top out.

FA: Fat Fab, 9 Sep 2018

Boulder 4m
Balmoral
V3 Flake to Wafer

The Flake in the Left Cave

FFA: Za Utopia, 1990

Boulder
Cremorne Brightmore Reserve
V3 Reepacheep

Start just right of A in the scoop. Up the arete (without using the block on the right).

FA: dwebster, Sep 2015

Boulder
V3 Aslan's How

Up the hill and left from Zachaeus. Start with butt on ground on right side. Traverse the lip till you're over rock, then mantle.

FA: dwebster, Sep 2015

Boulder
V3 Eustace

Down and left of the Stone Table (looking in). Start at blunt right arete and traverse it as far rightwards as possible.

FA: dwebster, Sep 2015

Boulder
V3 Edmund

Start in the middle of the face with two obvious pockets.

FA: dwebster, Sep 2015

Boulder
Cremorne Primrose Park Bum Crag
V3 Bum Arete

The left side of the main sharp arete. Starting on the blocks. Try not to fall!

FA: Blake Hawkins, Oct 2016

Boulder
V3 Sleeping Rough

Start and finish as for loitering, but never use the lip until the overlap near the top.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2016

Boulder
V3 Million Dollar View

Still on the slabby block. Start on the right end, just right of the tree. Move straight up to the apex.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2016

Boulder
Middle Cove The Chief's Big Chief Sitting Rock
V3 Long The Bison Roams

A core strength loving slap and smear traverse with great holds and a slight over hang

Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete.

Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right

Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move right until you at the far arete.

love the easy arete up for the top out.

Reach and endurance required!

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 28 Aug 2013

FA: David Muir, 18 May 2014

Boulder 6m
V3 Project 5

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, Aug 2013

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, Aug 2013

Boulder 3m
V3 Project 7

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, Aug 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 28 Aug 2013

Boulder 3m
V3 Project 9

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, Aug 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 28 Aug 2013

Boulder
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag
22 Doggie's Dinner soft finish

Start: As for DD. Up and left at roof. Shared chain lower off with DD.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Sport 10m
23 Grannies From Hell

Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Sport 10m, 3
23 Cold Chisel

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date.

Top rope 7m
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Brendons Blackboard Is Covered In Chalk
V3 Log in Sam's face

Around the next corner from WMRDG is a round, bulgy face. Climb up it, staying towards the centre.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Boulder
V3 Ewas Chock Stone Problem

The right side of the crack. Hands on right only. Nice knee bar!

Boulder 2m
V3 Arachnid Stairs

Start up Spider Stairs till mid height, then finish up Scorpion Stairs.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Boulder 5m
V3 Spiders and Scorpions

Start up Scorpion Stairs and finish up Spider Stairs.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Boulder 5m
V3 A Slow Dance At Dusk

A beautiful problem mingling balance, dedication and problem solving

Start 3m right of Spider Stairs by semi mantling the chest high ledge up to a delicious side pull. Traverse your way along to the right using gastons, crimpers, side pulls and underclings till all holds above you disappear and you are forced to follow the holds down.

Finish by walking off the right most section of the problem after working through two challenging crux's

A pleasure at any time of the day!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 26 Jun 2014

Boulder 5m
V3 Insecticide

Starting 0.5m left of cave. Up the cave's left edge bearing leftwards.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Boulder 3m
V3 Cave Common Start Left

Start in the middle of the cave, up to obvious incut, then move left to groovy holds and over.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Boulder 3m
V3 Cave Common Start Middle

Start in middle of cave. Up to obvious incut then straight over. Holds on left only in for feet.

FA: dwebster, Oct 2015

Boulder 3m
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve The Eastern Outpost
V3 The painful pursuit of pleasure

On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

Boulder 3m
V3 Dying with the most toys

Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall!

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

Boulder 4m
V3 Don't do it for glory

Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

Boulder 4m
V3 Materialism Vortex

Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack.

FA: dwebster, Dec 2015

Boulder 4m
V3 Satisfied in him

Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack.

FA: dwebster, Dec 2015

Boulder 4m
22 Mini Sub

Start about 4m right of SC at obvious scoop. No using the tree to start! Up and over, left at last bolt for slopey finish.

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, Feb 2016

Sport 7m
23 Le Bonne Damme Olivia

Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short!

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

Sport 6m
Castle Cove Castle Cove crag
22 Thymeless

Links the start (and first bolt) of Mudstone Man into the top of Amiga Man (Sharing the last bolt). Technical Traverse over 1 U and 3BR's.

FA: 2014

Sport 10m, 4
23 Aria the Natural

Extension of Aria and probably the best route at the crag. Start as for Aria, clip third bolt with a long draw. Move right then up flake and slopers to double RB lower off. Five bolts in total, 4 of which are BR's.

FA: Darley & Hanley, 2014

Sport 11m, 5
22 Aria

Short, difficult and technical slab (crux) to start, then up breaks and flake. One RB (you can stick clip), then Two BR's to double RB lower off.

FA: 2014

Sport 9m, 3
West Roseville
23 Toad Hall

Start just right of crack on big jug and left of Deal with it. Crux at top.

FA: Munch, 1994

Sport 8m, 3
22 Deal With It

Follow line of fixed hangers start below 1st hanger, add a grade if you do the sit down boulder problem under the overhang.

FA: 1994

Sport 8m, 3
Lindfield Rocks First Wall
V3 6

Left hand on an ironstone crimp in the centre. Right to an obvious incut pocket and up

Boulder 4m
Lindfield Rocks Walkdown Wall
V3 4

Right hand in the big sidepull pocket, feet up high and dyno for the top

Boulder 3m
V3 7 - Discontinuous Crack

Excellent little problem, up the obvious hanging crack

If you can jamb, there is a bomber finger lock, if you're a Gym Junkie - have fun!

Boulder 4m
V3 The Lindfield Traverse - 1

The most common start for the Lindfield Traverse is problem #3. Move left staying low. Move slightly higher at the arete for the second section of the traverse

Boulder 12m
Lindfield Rocks Kenny Boulder
V3 10

Layback the next overlap along, diagonally right.

Boulder 3m
V3 11

Start on low broken undercling, then deviously attain the face and the good holds therein

Boulder 3m
V3 The Nose

Start standing on the left side of the block. Drop down and traverse the slopey nose to end up on the right side.

Boulder 3m
V3 The Nose linked into 12
Boulder
V3 The Not Over the Top Traverse

Traverses the block (Hermit's Cave) right-to-left staying just below the top

Boulder 4m
Lindfield Rocks Four Cracks Wall
V3 4

Right hand sloper, up on small holds. Sidepull to the left is off.

Boulder 4m
V3 The Lindfield Traverse - 3

Starts high at the end of the Downclimb Slab. Drop down to the middle of the wall near problem 4 - feet on the obvious horizontal break. At the left hand end pop onto the shelf and scramble onto abseil wall without touching the ground or using the tree.

Boulder 12m
Lindfield Rocks Abseil Wall
V3 1

Starts behind the tree on the right. uses underclings and a large rounded flake. Trend left near the top

Boulder 4m
V3 3

Between the window and the dog leg crack, squeezed in.

Boulder 5m
V3 6

Past the low well-worn horn. vertical edges on left, thin crimps on right.

Boulder 5m
V3 The Tourist Route

aka Turkey Route. A must-do up the left hand side of the wall with a slight right-left deviation high up.

Boulder 6m
Lindfield Rocks Black Wall/Wide Crack Area
V3 R 6

Climbs the curving feature to the left till it runs out, then crimps on the right face

Boulder 5m
V3 Low Traverse of Black Wall R to L
Boulder 4m
V3 Low Traverse of Black Wall L to R
Boulder 4m
Lindfield Rocks One Hold Wall
V3 6

Start in the large pocket near the middle of the wall. climb up and left via a flake to finish right of the tree

Boulder 5m
V3 7

Reachy start, vague flakeline.

Boulder 5m
V3 The Lindfield Traverse - 6

Scramble down from the ledge and traverse the wall at low height. Move around the Orange Arete to a short wall.

Boulder 8m
Lindfield Rocks Pipeline Wall
V2/3 13

Start with right hand on an incut crimp 1/2 left of the layback, left hand on sloper and up.

Boulder 4m
Lindfield Rocks Bum Crack/Pocketed Face
V3 4

A rightward Traverse from bum crack around the boulder avoiding the big foot ledge.

Boulder 4m
Lindfield Rocks Orange Face/Slab Side
V3 4

Sit start and undercling your way up. Follow the right trending seam/crack. There are million variants to this problem.

Boulder 4m
Lindfield Rocks She-Oak Wall
V3 3

Climbs the territory just left of The Offwidth

Boulder 5m
V3 8

There's an obvious pocket below the traverse of Problem #7. Use this to gain the break.

Boulder 6m
V3 The Golden Triangle

steep stuff on the left edge of the wall

Boulder 3m
Lindfield Rocks The Overhangs
V3 Campus Problem

Two feet right of 2

Stand & grab first crimps. Campus your way up until you run out of cliff or your feet stop dangling.

FA: Some old fella, 1800

Boulder 3m
V3 8

As for #7, but haul up left on slightly less dodgy holds.

Boulder 5m
V3 10

Flake system through the roof

Boulder 4m
V3 11

Light coloured scoop further left. Standing start trending left.

Boulder
Lindfield Rocks Pipe Dreams
V3 Pipe Dreams

Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder.

Boulder 3m
V3 Dream Pipe

Pipe Dreams in reverse. A good mix up to keep it fresh. Perhaps a touch harder then Pipe Dreams.

Boulder 7m
V3 Pipe Wednesday

Link start of Pipe Dreams into Big Wednesday.

Boulder 5m
Chatswood West The Deli Front counter
V3 Bratwurst

A great position and solid rock! Up the arete on its left side. Pockets then big reach at top. Can come in from slightly left using pockets. Possibly nicer.

FA: dwebster, Aug 2015

Boulder
V3 Tiger Prawn

Scary landing but excellent. Follow the twin left leaning lines up. Great rock. (Prawns are the most dangerous thing at the deli.)

FA: dwebster, Aug 2015

Boulder
Chatswood West The Deli Sausage Aisle
V3 Hungarian Salami

The overhanging buttress. Sit start on good scoop/flake. Work straight up and over the arete.

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

Boulder
V3 Knackwurst

Start about 3m left of W. Grab obvious slots beneath little scoop. Up, a little desperately.

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

Boulder
V3 Bockwurst

On the far left there's a cave perched about 2m off the deck. Sit start on the right of the cave, then move out and up high arete. Don't chicken out around the arete! A little scary and tough for 3.

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

Boulder
Killara The Big Pump
V3 Lower Cave B

From the back of the cave follow the slots out through the roof.

Boulder 4m
22 The Nudist Route

A pumpy number that climbs like one long boulder problem. Thought provoking moves up the face followed by generous holds through the roof. RBs the whole way.

Sport 12m, 5
23 The Nudist Extension

Start up the nudist. When you get to the anchors throw for a big move right around the mossy face then follow the lip of the roof for another 5m on a sightseeing tour of bygone bolts (clip the fresh ones though). Finishes at chains, second or back-jump to clean.

Sport 19m, 8
V3 2

Start below the beginning of Mummy Dust and dyno your way up to a good jug near the first manky bolt. The arete and big break are off, as is matching hands.

Boulder 3m
Killara The Block
V3 Flake to flake (variant start)
Boulder
V3 Big Artie
Boulder
V3 I'm sure you'll be able to take my wheelchair on the aeroplane
Boulder
V3 State of origin 1

Start on the lowest holds and pop for the small edges then up over left. There used to be a big edge, but it has been smashed off so this is now probably harder than V3.

Boulder 3m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 189 routes.

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