In Roman Catholic doctrine, Purgatory is a place or state of suffering inhabited by the souls of sinners who are expiating their sins before going to heaven.....

err... well...In bouldering doctrine, it's the ghetto infested cave of some wayward youths.

Broken bottles, spray tags, mattress springs, you name it it's there somewhere in the layers of soil surrounding this cave.

But even in those long dammed places there are some enticing morsels for the brave.

So wear your solid approach shoes and enjoy the overhang of Purgatory!

Routes are described from Left to Right

Access issues inherited from The Promised Land

Please respect the Houses as you walk into the crag. We have established a good relationship with the locals, including the teachers at the nearby school. Please continue to be a good example of the climbing community


Approach details soon to come.

Ethic inherited from The Promised Land

Development is still open in this area, but please make sure your new line is reasonably different to those existing. If you have any questions or concerns don't hesitate to contact the main developers - Brendon Flanagan or Ranger Dave.

Please respect the crag and clean up an trash you see. Sadly teenage punks from the local school mess this place up.


View historical timeline

Discovered by Ranger Dave Archer in July 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom!

This part of the Crag wasn't fully explored till many months into the development. Ofter walked past due to its rubbish and unappealing size

Regardless of the look of Purgatory the overhang was calling out to Ranger Dave and in the end it held at least two enjoyable problems.


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Grade Route

No one enjoys being stuck in a jam, unless of course its one using your toe

Start at the left side of the overhang with your right hand as a undercling and left as a side pull. From here place both feet on the face before you and move a hand up to the lip above. The most satisfying part of this climb comes next. Work the Toe jam to free up your other hand and then follow the lip to top out on its outer most corner

A solid problem from start to finish with several satisfying moves

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 22 Jan 2014

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 22 Jan 2014

Start deep withing the left corner of the overhang.

Without using the starting holds of "Stuck In Limbo" focus on the sideways undercling and crimps of the over hang to work your way up to the lip

Top out same as "SIL"

Intense power needed for the start

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 20 Nov 2013

A satisfying inverted lip problem

With both hands matched on the big break just to the right of where the cave lip starts heading upwards, move straight to a heel hook, with the rock underneath you out of bounds

Using the lip and face holds 30cm from the lip, follow it up and left till you are around the corner.

Top out same as "Stuck In Limbo"

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 20 Nov 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 9 Feb 2014

Start as "The Forsaken" with hands matched on flake and one heel hooked, but finish up the groove left of the starting hold. Low band of rock is out.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 20 Nov 2013

FFA: T. Chaffey, 18 Sep 2018

Set by Jake Griffiths, 9 Feb 2014

FA: Jake Griffiths, 9 Feb 2014

Start 1 right of The Forgotten

Set by Brendon Flanagan, Feb 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Feb 2014

Find your way to the top of the waist high ledge. Stabilise yourself and follow it up with a top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 9 Feb 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 9 Feb 2014

Start 2 metres right of the overhang.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, Feb 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Feb 2014

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