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description

A super sustained traverse with some focused friction and slapping.

Sit start under the left rounded arete at the jugs. Power up to the Gaston and then head left to the defined edge of the boulder

Slap and smear your way along this until you hit the bomber holds just left of the right arete. Fighting the pump, get your mantle on and love the feeling of your defiance to Father Ted's Stiff Upper Lip.

Note - Clean the top before attempting, if there hasn't been much traffic

Original Problem V5 - Stand start just right of blunt arete

Route history

8 Nov 2013Route setter: Geoff Marshall
8 Nov 2013First ascent: Ranger Dave Archer

Original Stand Start - V5 - Some awesome projecting with Geoffro and Heely. A real slap happy problem

5 Mar 2014First ascent: Simon

"After some serious excavations the sit start was born and Simon owned it" - Ranger Dave

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.75533, 151.16877

Grade citation

V6 Assigned grade
V6 Ranger Dave

ethic

Development is still open in this area, but please make sure your new line is reasonably different to those existing. If you have any questions or concerns don't hesitate to contact the main developers - Brendon Flanagan or Ranger Dave.

Please respect the crag and clean up an trash you see. Sadly teenage punks from the local school mess this place up.

inherited from The Promised Land

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 65 from 13 ratings.

Tick Types

Flash 1
Send 13
Attempt 5

Comment keywords

tough challenging dyno sustained solid mantle traverse lip feet awesome nice great cool fun good

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 18 Apr
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