A super sustained traverse with some focused friction and slapping.
Sit start under the left rounded arete at the jugs. Power up to the Gaston and then head left to the defined edge of the boulder
Slap and smear your way along this until you hit the bomber holds just left of the right arete. Fighting the pump, get your mantle on and love the feeling of your defiance to Father Ted's Stiff Upper Lip.
Note - Clean the top before attempting, if there hasn't been much traffic
Original Problem V5 - Stand start just right of blunt arete
8 Nov 2013 | Route setter: Geoff Marshall |
---|---|
8 Nov 2013 | First ascent:
Ranger Dave Archer Original Stand Start - V5 - Some awesome projecting with Geoffro and Heely. A real slap happy problem |
5 Mar 2014 | First ascent:
Simon "After some serious excavations the sit start was born and Simon owned it" - Ranger Dave |
V6 | Assigned grade |
V6 | ★★★Ranger Dave |
Development is still open in this area, but please make sure your new line is reasonably different to those existing. If you have any questions or concerns don't hesitate to contact the main developers - Brendon Flanagan or Ranger Dave.
Please respect the crag and clean up an trash you see. Sadly teenage punks from the local school mess this place up.
Overall quality 65 from 13 ratings.
Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
Ranger Dave on ★★ Father Ted's Stiff Upper Lip V6 - Dave Slaps Father Ted.JPG
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