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Description

Numerous faces up to 5m high. New area with easy problems and flat landings, so note being new everything has had little traffic so bring a brush and note holds may break. All projects are open and plenty more to do not noted.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Follow Stringy Bark trail past old oval, at bend just past metal sign follow small cairns down hill to middle of the bouldering field near Grunter.

Ethic inherited from The Stables

These areas are in Berowra Valley National Park, so dogs, fires, rubbish, rock and vegetation damage and other activities prohibited under the Act are forbidden.

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy up left side, (was 1/2 metre higher until be flake tore off)

Up middle via jugs.

Start left side on jug following rounded edge to highest point and mantle onto slab and over (V0 if you use opposite boulder)

Grab lip and mantle over

FA: Nov 2019

Step onto face and up over rounded mantle

FA: Nov 2019

Up slab

Mantle middle of boulder

Mantle up right side of boulder

Stand start left using pinch and pockety sidepull make way directly upwards using crimps to slopey topout. Feels quite hard maybe v6-v7

Up the first seam.

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up the second seam

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up orange face left side of wall, feet in diagonal but hands on the crispy orange wall

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up jugs and overlap right side of face

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Mantle up short free standing boulder

FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019

Sit start at undercut between 2 boulders, with hands in crack and feet in pocket on left boulder. Mantle onto left boulder

As for problem 2, but with sit start requiring lay backs, toe hooks and finger locks. Left boulder off

Up left side topping out

FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Up right side of face and crack

FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019

Start in crack then up on the right.

Up face between cracks

FFA: kevin van tilburg, 28 Jul 2019

Left crack and seam

FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan 2020

Fine highball wall.

FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan 2020

Low start on slots and finesse directly up to pocket and up.

FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 18 Nov 2020

Easy slanting crack - mind the loose capstone.

FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan 2020

Next climbs are on freestanding boulder below cliff line

Start uphill arete on overhung side of boulder ( NW) rising traverse right to awkward mantl

Sit start up left side arete, lower side of free standing boulder

FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Start low up right side arete, lower side of free standing boulder

FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Straight face staying off left side corner

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Start on crimps, left to pocket and over

FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019

Up arete on high side of free standing boulder. V0 if you do sit start.

FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Sit start, lunge to lip and over, staying off right sided arete

Sit start on arete following crack under roof exiting up face on left

Same start as YGID exit up over cave.

Sit start on the arete and up and bg holds

Up short face over detached block

Straight middle of face

Up left side of juggy face

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up middle of face

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up short flake then Juggy face.

Up middle of face starting at thin crack, past mid pocket

Arete, starting on left and moving right

Up left side of slab

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up Middle of slab

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up right side of slab

FA: 4 Aug 2019

Up right shallow flake to top

Up center of slab

Up right side of slab

Up between the two boulders

Straight up over round boulder

Sit start straight up over nose

Same start but tend right then up

Straight up middle of face.

Start in lowest horizontal crack, awkward until you gain height into Shadey proper.

Sit start on flake at small roof, hugging arete to top, no escaping left onto face

up face in slot past vertical crack

Staight up face

Next obvious line on face

Up right side of face. Sit start goes at V1.

Up rounded slab

Up rounded Arete to top

Up left leaning ramp to top

Up left side of featured wall to rounded top

FFA: 6 Aug 2019

Up featured face

FFA: 6 Aug 2019

Straight up vertical flake

FFA: 6 Aug 2019

Mantle over buldge on right handed side pull

FFA: 6 Aug 2019

Rounded mantle right side of wall

FFA: 6 Aug 2019

Easily up slab left side of boulder

Sit start straight up over bulge onto slab

Easy up left side of scoop

FFA: 28 Sep 2019

Easy up right side of scoop

FFA: 28 Sep 2019

Next lot of climbs on two boulders in front of wall

Short mantle on rounded wall.

Up left side of big slab, staying as left as possible to the top.

FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019

Up offwidth with blinkers on, avoid slab

Straight up face left of slab (Staying of lower cheat boulder at bottom.)

FFA: ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

On other side of boulder up face staying of face on left side.

FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Straight up blunt arete

FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Up middle of easy face

FFA: ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Sit start on two side pulls, right one thin down low, only v0 if use right higher better side pull.

Start with both hands on the big crumbly sidepull, big throw up to rail then up and right to finish.

Easily up and over scoop.

Pop to jugs on lip and mantle over

FFA: ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019

Crimp to jugs and mantle

FFA: 28 Jul 2019

Back to main wall

Up left side of slab

Straight up middle of slab

Up right side of slab pulling on some faint one finger dimples.

Mantle up rounded nose

Smear and mantle up over short boulder, staying off large footer to the right.

Up juggy slab stright over top

Mantle up following faint seam

Mantle up onto sloping slab

Straight up over rounded bouder

Sit start, along obvious seem to nose and mantle

Sit start under nose mantling left of nose

Sit start under nose mantling right of nose

Next lot of problems on lower wall directly below snap

Up left side of boulder

Up Middle of boulder

Up right side of boulder

Sit start in corner follow crack onto lip and top out at highest point

Mantle over shallow scoop

Straight up over face

Start on two underclings and out left following flake

Start on two underlings then straight up past obvious holds on lip

Start on two underlings, traverse right then up over slab

Hug bulge as you step up rails to mantle.

Sit start with feet back of cave on obvious sloppy rail, slap to lip and then straight over.

Sit start up fin along lip left and over

Up left side of short wall

Layback off chest high flake and up

Next 4 start on same holds, Sit start left under roof and up ss.

Sit start on rails straight up onto to lip and follow left to top out as for SS

Sit start on rails on left over roof

FA: Nov 2019

Sit start on rails and out right side from roof

Up corner

Sit start on loose flake and go directly upwards.

Sit start right of crack left to obvious diagonal rail and over

sit start, up the splitter crack.

FA: Nov 2019

sit start Just right of crack up face, tending right

FA: Nov 2019

Up left side of all on arete

FA: Nov 2019

Sit start at left end of horizontal weakness, traversing right mantling onto slab at big horn

Sit start on right side traversing left until ledge runs out then up and over on tricky mantle.

Next lot of problems on another lower level directly below Trick

Start on the left traversing right and exiting right of roof

Start on right side an traverse left keeping hands off top of boulder until end then up.

Start on left side follow lip around corner then over

Sit start, left hand in two finger pocket right low on arete, pull on and blast to the lip and over.

Start bottom righ of boulder tending left long face and up and over at highest point on arete.

Sit start, straight up over boulder right of arete.

Standing start,Rights left hands on opposing side pulls, straight over. Sit start variation to go a 1-2 grades harder.

Sit start up right side runnel, staying off opposing right side boulder. v0- if you dont do sit start.

Easily up right side of boulder

Up right side of boulder

Sit start left side of boulder following lip to highest point and over

Sit start using right hand scoop, straight up and over

Sit start hugging rock right hand up to obvious hold on nose and out left

Sit start hugging rock left hand up to obvious hold on nose and out right

FA: Nov 2019

Start on left side holds and follow lip on higher holds mantling just before tree

Start on left side holds and follow lip on lower holds mantling just before tree

FA: Nov 2019

Sit start in two crimps, left to pocket right to lip and over.

Sit start, right hand on undercling in cave up and over

Sit start left side of cave, to undercling inside lip and over

Sit start right side of cave, start hands on surfboard straight up over lip.

Next climbs found on next tier down

Straight up juggy face to top

Sit start under horn, mantle horn into scoop and over

Next climbs across shallow gully back at main level, ie walk past beach chair

Sit start on lower right holds, left and over horns.

Sit start laying off flake and over

Straight up hugging features to mantle

Sit start, right hand in seem, up left through scoop

Sit start left hand on obvious undercling and up right.

Sit start middle of wall in vertical pockets, right hand on edge tending back left and over

Stand start on right edge follow to middle and over

Sit start, up right side of cave then right onto face and top out

Sit start under arete slap to top and over.

Sit start under surfboard, up right following rail then step right over surfboard and up

Next two climbs on small block 10m up the hill from Australia burns....

Sit start on obvious undercling, heading left out of cave and over

Sit start on obvious undercling, heading right out of cave on good holds and over

Next lot of climb on next tier down the hill

Sit start on vertical flake up to horizontal crack following left to end and over

Sit start on vertical flake straight up and over

Sit start using left and right side pull, straight up and over.

Sit start as for C, head right along halfway break up through grove.

Sit start and slap you way to lip and over

Sit start in left crack, right through roof and up right along lip

Sit start to first blood under nose into grove and exit right through as for FB

Step up into corner and exit right along pockets and edges onto faint arete and up.

Sit start on left side of boulder left and over.

On top side of boulder, Start on very right hand side traverse to slab and up over highest part.

Up slab right of rail and edge

Up slab keeping and using rail on your right until top

Up face keeping of right hand rail until the very top

Sit start of left lip and exit mid way when hands on big obvious jug just back of the lip.

Sit start on left lip and follow to high top and exit. Probably feels v1 with a spotter

Sit start up 45 degree face up through grove and over

Right hand shallow pocket slapping up to left ridge and awkward top out

Up middle of very easy slab...like its neighbor no hands silliness for the grade

Up right side of low angled slab....like its neighbor no hands silliness for the grade

On top side of boulder, Sit start in hole up and out over face.

Start on left side follow lip and exit at highest point

Left side of arete and up, not bridging using back boulder

Standing start, up and over nose

Sit start right hand in pocket, left on low rail up to side pull pocket, big move to lip and over

Sit start right on flake left on boulders edge slap to rail and follow right to top out at highest point

Standing start, right hand on hold hip heights left on rail, pop along rail around arete and up slab.

Sit start straight up arete feet staying on eft side and not using broken flake hold on slab

Sit start, moving around arete onto slab using broken flake hold, up slab and over when established

Sit start hands on left side if crack until lip and exit through groove

Sit start right of crack up face and over

Start on left side and traverse lip to right then mantle

Sit start, with feet on lower detached block, lay back up edge of wall and over

Up some small edges to good break and rounded mantle

pop into obvious pocket, run feet up slab and gran top and over

Next lot of climbs on some boulders down in front of flat earthers.

Step up and over boulder

Sit start, starting on obvious lower fake ,launch tip lip and over

Standing start, hands on two dimples on lip, left foot on broken hold, follow lip right to good edge, launch to highest part and over

Up middle of boulder

Up right side of face on boulder

Start on right hand side pull, up arete

Up slab just right of arete

Sit start under triangle shaped boulder, left hand in pocket, right on blunt nose, up and over.

Sit start in right hand side of cave up left and over

Straight up left side of slab to easy top out.

up middle of slab under big tree, groveling mantle with trees in the way, lose a grade if you use small tree at top.

Step up to flake, using side pull and high step smear to gain top.

Sit start under nose gain lip and head left.

Sit start straight up over nose staying off left & right boulder after start.

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