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Marsfield

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Description

Located behind Macquarie University Northern Field lies a cliff line holding a few classic moderate climbs.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park at the north end of Busaco Road, Marsfield. At the end of the road you will notice a stretch of concrete with a white gate at the end. Walk past this gate and follow the powerlines for about 200m, passing the powerlines tower on your left and the chain-linked fence on your right. You will see a locked gate in the fence, and immediately opposite a small trail leads down the hill. This brings you to some old stone stairs through the cliff. Chewbacca Slab is to the left of the stairs, looking at the cliff.

There is also a trail a bit further back which comes out near the top of "Deep Impact".

Routes

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Grade Route

A fun traverse for all the family! Beginning on the rail left of Space Jam, work up and across the face on fun crimps, then finish into Sunshine

Beginning at right-most end of the slopey rail underneath Wall-E, traverse left around arete and finish up Sunshine

Straight up the crack. Add a V-grade if the bull ants are biting your fingers.

Start with left hand in the circular pocket in the middle of the face and right hand on the generous crimp up higher to the right. Go right and up.

The ledge at the very bottom of the cliff that's only 3 cm off the ground is off.

Set: Chan, 31 Aug 2021

FA: Chan, 31 Aug 2021

Stand start on the crimpy, sloper rail, move right and up on thin, crimpy holds and top out to the left.

George Li

Left variant to Prometheus. Start with the undercling and the crack, head straight up.

Sam Healy

FA: Sam Healy, 27 Jun 2020

Stand start with both hands on the undercling. Follow the crack system up and to the left, topping out above the start holds. Chris Beers

Start up Deep Impact, heading onto the face via pocket. Top out up and right.

Liam Healy

FA: Connor Lucas, 30 May 2020

Start as for Gattaca then head right and up once on the slab.

FA: Jack Folkes, 10 May 2020

Stand start right of the smooth tree.

FA: Eli Mercado, 20 Jun 2020

Sit start to Stargazing. Start matched on the obvious block and go up.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Aug 2020

Sit start on the corner of this boulder facing the wall with Deep Impact on it.

On a bloc about 20m right of Starblazing. Sit start with good holds, into the mono and up to the lip, then up and over.

Peter Jeavons

Grade is approximate pending a few repeats. Probably 5 or 6.

FA: D. Hughes, 29 May 2021

Up the crescent shaped cut-out on the right then traverse left into the top of 'Blood Moon Rising'

FA: Pat, 15 Jul 2021

Sit start matched in the far-right pocket. Traverse left and finish crouched and cramped on top of the low ledge inside the tiny cave on the far left.

Everything on the lip above 'Blood Moon Rising' is off.

Set: Chan, 4 Oct 2021

FA: Chan, 4 Oct 2021

Sit start under the overhang and then up the edge of this boulder in front of the wall with 'Blood Moon Rising' on it.

Straight up the middle of the wide face on this boulder.

To find the next cliff face, walk about 10 m further along the path to the right of the boulder with 'Blindside' on it, then walk up the hill about 15 m along a mostly obvious path winding through the brush.

BE WEARY OF BROKEN GLASS.

Alternatively, walk in from the top of the cliff above 'Blood Moon Rising' and go down the gully located about 5 m before you reach the obvious cliff top.

Up the far left of the wall.

Everything to the left of the long, slightly-angled slot is off. Everything to the right of the good, above-head-height crimp is off.

Set: MM & Chan

FA: MM

Sit start for 'Hole in One'.

Set: Katewalk, 3 Feb 2022

FA: Katewalk, 3 Feb 2022

Jammed right up next to 'Hole in One'.

Everything to the left of the the good, above-head-height crimp is off.

Set: MM & Chan

FA: MM, 25 Sep 2021

Start with hands matched in the lowest big pocket (either undercling or sit start is fine). Many ways to do the start, so get creative! Make sure you're fully on the rock before you make the second move. Head up and slightly to the left.

FA: Eson

Start with both hands on the ledge off the far left of the main face, traverse all the way to the right edge of the face without topping out.

Set: MM & Chan

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Activity

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