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Summary

A small but fun bouldering area. There are a number of semi-isolated blocks up to about 4m, with a main cave that has been the focus of development. As usual for new areas be wary of loose rock.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

From the end of Busaco Rd in Marsfield follow the firetrail just left of the concrete drivewaydown to the high tension power tower. Cut across diagonally (on a small track) from the east side of the power tower to the north side. Find a gully 20 m directly downhill from the tower. Turn left at the bottom and walk abother 20m or so to the obvious cave.

History

History timeline chart

There is some evidence of previous climbing, but the cave was discovered and developed by Dave Hughes in 2014.

Routes

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Grade Route

The easiest way to the top Start off the block on the left side of the cave, step across, then up and right.

Start on the same holds as "Chalk and Talk". Head out left and join up with "Plagiarism".

FA: Eson

The obvious left line through the cave. Starts with feet on the ledge at the back and two small underclings, then straight out and up to top.

Nothing but lip! Start as for Chalk and Talk but turn right and follow the lip of the cave all the way to an obvious jug on the headwall at the right end.

The right line through the main cave. Start at the back of the obvious flake, follow it to the lip, then swing out left to the hanging block and straight up to tricky mantle.

Not as much lip as ODD. Start as for Year 12 but turn right at the lip to finish as for ODD.

Start in the smaller right hand side of the cave on the jug at the back. Straight out to the first jug using any holds you can find on the way, then up the headwall staying left of the scoop.

Sit start under the arete about 5m right of the cave. Straight up, swinging to the right side as it gets tricky.

Set: Eson Zhao

Set: Eson Zhao

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