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Description

Small but high quality, with a few classic test-pieces including 'Great Expectations' (V7), 'Midwife Crisis' (V8), 'J2' (V12) and 'J1' (V13). It's also home to the not very often repeated 'A1' (V14).

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Access issues

This area is very close to peoples houses and backyards and so far the residents welcome the "intrusion". But please no boom-boxes, dogs or swearing - save that for the gym!

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Approach

Park on the corner of North Rocks Rd and Loyalty Rd. Head under the power line tower and then left behind the town houses following the trail. Note: The land the power line is on is not public land, it is the property of the house on your right, so please be courteous.

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History

History timeline chart

Discovered by Adam Griffiths and developed mainly by Adam Griffiths, Tim O'Neill and Saxon Johns in 2001 and 2002.

Note the double c's - named after Adam Griffith's daughter.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The little boulder on the way in before the cave, pretty fun. Sit start with left hand on arete a right hand in slot, climb up and right to top out around the corner.

FA: Dan da Silva, 22 Sep 2013

The easiest line out of the scoop - on the right hand side. Bring a brush and clean the last two holds before a send attempt.

A harder and better way out of the scoop!

Mauricio Chino

A good long link-up, and the best of this little collection.

Start: Start on the right hand of the scoop, traverse left and big move to topout.

Start as for No Name 1, finish up This Way Out. More moves than This Way Out but not harder.

Start low in the middle of the cave. Move up and then join Bedside Manner to finish in the same way.

A direct start on the steep wall punching into the scoop.

George Li | Phillip Booth

Climb "Great Expectations" and finish out "Will It Ever End".

Eliminate, but pretty good! Same start hold as the Expectant Fathers, traverse using the low feet and middle holds only then finishing as for Will It Ever End. Probably harder than it too. Top holds out for hands and feet.

An even longer link up traverse

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

FA: Saxon Johns

Lower right start to J1.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

FA: Saxon Johns

Climb "Midwife Crisis Direct", then climb the lip back right around the corner to top out as for J2.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 24 Jul 2013

One move wonder. Start matched from the circular scoop, as for 'J2', and traverse left and up.

Leah Dempsey

Same start as 'Midwife Crisis' but instead of using the jug, use a sloper/pinch directly overhead for LH and keep moving up using a series of crimps.

Another imaginitive name. Nice and pure.

Goood stuff.

Start as for Ladder II and when you get to the jugs, head left following the rock contours and some tiny crimps to a very slopey top.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2010

Start on the slopey jug to the left, move up to the dish from the break, and top-out left of the boulder.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 14 Aug 2015

Start at the low jug, dyno from the break to the top of the bulge and top-out a little to the right of the boulder. Could be V11.

mattias braach-maksvytis

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 14 Aug 2015

Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break.

Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/

FA: Sage G, 28 Jul 2019

Start as for Big Mitch but traverse the break a little bit further left and use the mono to tackle the bulge. Not sure of the grade yet.

Set by Matt Mattheson, 14 Aug 2015

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