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Summary

Good scenic sea-side bouldering with 5 min access.

Description

Scattered freestanding boulders on the sea platform below Shelley headland.

Access issues

Normal high and low tides are fine but a high easterly swell will get most boulders wet with spray. Bring a towel or sponge.

Approach

Park at the end of Bower Street. There is free unlimited street parking before you get to the paid 10P parking area and the end.

On the ocean side, decend the gully at the South end of the carpark. At the bottom turn right following the path above the boulders. When the path ends scramble down.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The following lines are to the right of the descent gully, listed in the order you will approach them walking south.

The following is on the back of a boulder high above the ocean on your right just after the approach path ends.

Start left and traverse on crimps while your feet follow lower edge. Then up using the blunt arete.

The following boulders are listed as you get to them from the approach (walking south from the approach).

Sit start, feet on the bottom ledge, head right and up and top out

Set: root

Just right of The Ridge, an easy low-ball heelhook fest.

Sitstart on low sloper rail.

Follow the sloping edge of the boulder all the way up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

Stand start up the prominent blunt steep arete on the ocean side.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

Scary reachy slab

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

Gentle overhanging pinch rails up the corner feature.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

1m left of The Line. Two sloper sidepulls and feet from hell. Topout left of choss hole.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

Stand start on black streak and mantle above broken flake.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

Start on the low jugs, move to the hole and mantle right of it.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

5 metres left of the previous block is the slab cube

Sit start

Sit start

Another 5 or so metres to the left.

Sit start on the left side of block with LH on arete and RH on the sloper, follow the arete feature up to top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Sit start underclinging the flake, top.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Sit start with LH on the undercling and RH in the slopey break, top.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Sit start both hands in the slopey break, plenty of jugs.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Stand start up the slab and follow the seam/right arete up.

FA: Jack Folkes, 10 Nov 2020

Stand start onto the slab, heading up and left to the peak of the boulder.

FA: Jack Folkes, 10 Nov 2020

Stand start on great seam/pocket/pod things. Straight up.

Stand start on left arete with good slots.

Stand start on scrittly horn. Up and right. Good moves, bad rock.

20 metres further south.

Sit start left side and flake.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

Sit start right side and middle flake thing.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 7 Jul 2018

start on the pinch on the right arete, traverse left and topout at the arete

Extend the traverse accross tne sloper rail to top out as for LC(left). You can step off onto the boulder at the far end or head up the crack at v3

Hidden between some rocks, a lot tighter than the topo appears. First row of big blocks, with an 80cm block in front

Stand start on the underclings. Head left to the arete and up.

Separate block to right is out. Can sit start but makes ugly move for the sake of adding a move.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Stand start on the underclings. Head up right to the pocket and then top.

Separate block to right is out. Can sit start but makes ugly move for the sake of adding a move.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Start on little undercling and the flake corner. Go Left and up.

Get into the balancy start position and pounce for the top.

Sit start

Start on low jug

Crouch start on the sidepull flake. Head up and over to top out up the slab.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Sit start on the sidepull feature left of arete. Head straight up to mantle.

FA: Jack Folkes, 16 Jul 2018

Up the slab using the edge

Up the side and join Slab Edge to top out

Sit start

Start jug pocket right move through arete top above left

Sit start, hands on left arete and pocket, traverse right through pockets to dyno on on face and top out.

FA: Fraser

The following routes are found south of bloody pockets. Most of these routes will have bad landings and require moving through the boulders. It is recommended that you climb here with a partner and multiple pads. Stay safe and stay classy

Fun movement into a cool exit.Start on side pull jug and nice flat crimp jug, crouch start. Stay below the lip and exit up corner slab. Avoid jug rail above lip. Landing partial built, recommend 3 decent size pads

Mantis

FA: Peter ilosvay, 29 Aug

Same start as escalate, move directly over the top to large rail and mantle out

FA: Peter ilosvay, 29 Sep

Start matched on jug rail, move up through the pockets then top out right of the top. Fun and cruisey

FA: Peter ilosvay, 29 Sep

Same start as pufferfish but move left, a few cool moves then top out on left hand slab.

FA: Peter ilosvay, 29 Sep

Favours the tall. Stand start matched under the horn, chock rock is in for feet. Move to the slopey lip and good side pull crimp. Pull yourself up and over to a slightly scary mantle. Hold your nerves and finish up the no hands slab. The landing is partially built, but multiple pads and spotter recommended. Mantis

Stand start on opposing crimps and move up. fun top out

Sit start matched low in juggy feature. Big move out right then up to a fun mantle. Flexibility helps but not necessary.

Mantis

start on crimp rail and rock up and stand tall, move through undercling andtop out. Helps to be tall but trust your feet

The following routes are north of the approach gully. Turn left after the decent from the carpark.

Match jug sit start. Pull and push.

Sitstart matched on sloper and go left and up on positive holds.

As above but only on the ocean-facing white sloper rails until topout.

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