A south-facing wall (shade in summer) with a jungle feel.
For access to The Crown, Crossroads and Spot X only (Not for Battery Hill or Vesuvius: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Peter also owns the general store in town & you can stop in there & the staff can call him if he isn't around. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.
Note: On the drive you will encounter two gates. Please always ‘leave it as you found it’.
From Urbenville, head east on Clarence Way and then turn right onto Connell’s Rd (dirt road). Follow this until taking a sharp right onto Gooroobee Rd. This quickly becomes Beehive Rd as you pass the Tooloom Falls campground on your right. Follow Beehive Rd, keep right at the junction with Keithdale Rd. Stay on Beehive Rd, it will soon become less visible as the grass is covering it. You will cross a ditch (*do not attempt in a low vehicle, park here if so) follow beehive rd for a short distance more, then turn left onto Sugarloaf boundary rd. Follow the fence to the corner, turn left again still following the fence line, and park in the grass just on the edge of the road before it dips down at a bit of a clearing.
Pass through the barbed wire on the RHS of the rd, head due south along the grassy flats. (Grass is very long at the moment and it is hard to pick up the cattle track initially.) this will soon become a fire trail, follow this for approx 5 minutes. Stay near the left edge of the fire trail as you walk, you will notice a dry creek bed below on the left. After going up a hill, you will find a large hole on the left caused by erosion. This is where you head left toward the mountain and cross a small log bridge over the dry creek bed. Head up the other side, you will pick up the remains of an old bike track. Turn left onto the track at the big stump and follow the track around. (This track has become quite overgrown, there are fallen trees etc and it is hard to find at times.) the track will be taking you gradually uphill and closer to the mountain as you go. You will find an obvious rock cairn on your left, where the forest is quite damp and mossy. Head uphill, stepping over a large fallen tree, up some rocks, following 1-2 smaller cairns. Then just weave your way up the slippery slope toward the cliff face- once you hit the cliff line, head right until arriving at ‘The Black Wall’. Well done! You found it.
Discovered by Cujes and Smits in the heat of 2013/14 summer. Being south facing, it offered some respite, and about 20 pitches were established in the next handful of months.
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question