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Vesuvius

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Description

A south-facing wall (shade in summer) with a jungle feel.

Access issues inherited from Urbenville

For access to The Crown, Crossroads and Spot X only (Not for Battery Hill or Vesuvius: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Peter also owns the general store in town & you can stop in there & the staff can call him if he isn't around. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.

Approach

Note: On the drive you will encounter two gates. Please always ‘leave it as you found it’.

From Urbenville, head east on Clarence Way and then turn right onto Connell’s Rd (dirt road). Follow this until taking a sharp right onto Gooroobee Rd. This quickly becomes Beehive Rd as you pass the Tooloom Falls campground on your right. Follow Beehive Rd, keep right at the junction with Keithdale Rd. Stay on Beehive Rd, it will soon become less visible as the grass is covering it. You will cross a ditch (*do not attempt in a low vehicle, park here if so) follow beehive rd for a short distance more, then turn left onto Sugarloaf boundary rd. Follow the fence to the corner, turn left again still following the fence line, and park in the grass just on the edge of the road before it dips down at a bit of a clearing.

Pass through the barbed wire on the RHS of the rd, head due south along the grassy flats. (Grass is very long at the moment and it is hard to pick up the cattle track initially.) this will soon become a fire trail, follow this for approx 5 minutes. Stay near the left edge of the fire trail as you walk, you will notice a dry creek bed below on the left. After going up a hill, you will find a large hole on the left caused by erosion. This is where you head left toward the mountain and cross a small log bridge over the dry creek bed. Head up the other side, you will pick up the remains of an old bike track. Turn left onto the track at the big stump and follow the track around. (This track has become quite overgrown, there are fallen trees etc and it is hard to find at times.) the track will be taking you gradually uphill and closer to the mountain as you go. You will find an obvious rock cairn on your left, where the forest is quite damp and mossy. Head uphill, stepping over a large fallen tree, up some rocks, following 1-2 smaller cairns. Then just weave your way up the slippery slope toward the cliff face- once you hit the cliff line, head right until arriving at ‘The Black Wall’. Well done! You found it.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered by Cujes and Smits in the heat of 2013/14 summer. Being south facing, it offered some respite, and about 20 pitches were established in the next handful of months.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

20-30m high steep slabby to vertical dark Ngungun-style wall. Some leaning shallow cracklines. All routes on this section of wall require a stickclip and have hard starts.

R-leaning crackline and arete. Some tricky moments passing the first bolt.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 13 Apr 2014

Starting from the top of the saddle. Anchor shared with JVTV.

FFA: Lee Cujes & Glenn Ferguson, 13 Apr 2014

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

FFA: John O'Brien, 8 Feb 2014

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

FFA: Lee Cujes & Duncan Steel, 1 Feb 2014

The ‘bolt before the pub closes’ route. Stickclip for the boulder problem start, like all routes on this wall. Scoopy black awesomeness. Sensational! FH’s.

FFA: Lee Cujes & Duncan Steel, 1 Feb 2014

The best piece of stone on the wall. Vertical, pure technicality with a brick hard crux traverse. Channel your favourite 80s sport climbing hero, and remember to vulcanize. Ringbolts.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 24 May 2014

High first U-bolt on dark rock (stickclip off block). Fierce moves off the deck give a brief rest before fingerlock crux above bolt four. Continuous, R-leaning climbing past another eight bolts to lower off. Climbed on the famous 41 degree day.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 4 Jan 2014

The first white wall capped by roofs.

5m R. Climb on to pointy boulder to start and clip first bolt, then up past the jutty-outty block feature (surprisingly technical). Cool climbing on great rock with a no-holds-barred wrestle crux through the bulge. 12 bolts to lower-off.

FFA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 23 Dec 2013

Careful on loose but easy corner for 10m. Then interesting moves with hidden holds on good rock. 9 FHs to shared anchor with Pyroclastic. Good, but a bit runout and ledgy, take care.

FFA: Erik Smits, 11 Jan 2014

Up past a few bolts to perch beneath roof overlap. Inventive moves to get over this before stepping right to encounter balancy Frog Buttress-style face climbing to the top.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 12 Jan 2014

4m R. The big corner with glue-in rings. Large R-leaning open book corner (some shattered rock), then left. Top crux will have you thinking. Crazy pockets up top are worth experiencing.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 11 Jan 2014

Up the initial deep V-gully to start from pointy pillar against the cliff. FH’s lead of R-trending corner. A delicate move left, then back R and up tricky headwall.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 12 Jan 2014

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 8 Feb 2014

Huge chimney-funnel-chasm splitting the cliff. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

Start at the black brain rock under a bulgy, juggy overhang. Pull through and march up the slab. At the 8th FH, you’ll see PTY branch off to the left (don't). Head straight up with some more thoughtful climbing on good rock. Two more bolts to anchors. Don’t extend the anchor. 10 FH’s. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

FFA: John O'Brien & Nathan McNeil, 3 Jan 2014

As above, but split off left at the 8th FH up onto ledge for anchors. Belay from big ledge in canyon. 9 FH’s.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

FFA: John O'Brien & Nathan McNeil, 3 Jan 2014

A big, bad beast of a route with an air of serious about it. Nary a straight-down pull on the pitch, it’s all pushing, laybacking, gastons and bridging. Loose in a few spots (robbing it of that elusive third star), but it’s cleaning up, and provides for some amazing climbing. Take about 15 draws. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

FFA: John O'Brien, 1 Mar 2014

Open Project. Shared start with DDA. Fully bolted but needs some removal of loose rock. Continues up right leaning flake from the 4th bolt of DDA.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thank you

Set: Nathan McNeil, 21 Apr 2014

A crowd pleaser. 6m R. Unusual knobby slab to lower off 5m below the big half-height cave. 8 FH’s.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

FFA: Kathryn Gardner & Erik Smits, 1 Mar 2014

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