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The Cave

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Description

Routes are described left to right.

© (boardlord)

Access issues

Private land with climbing club of SA arrangements. No climbing before sunrise or after sunset. No climbing on total fire ban days for Mt Lofty ranges. CCSA sticker visible on climbers cars. No climbing above cave lip or outside designated areas.

© (boardlord)

Ethic inherited from Norton Summit

Sport climbing, mostly higher grades (23-32).

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The line 2m left of 'Trundle down rundle' - 5 bolts

FFA: Adam Gower, 22 Jan 2012

Graded 24 until a large jug ripped off, courtesy of Mr Baker. Now a soft-touch 25 power-endurance fest. Takes the left most chalked weakness past a line of rings bolts and positive holds to a fingery crux at the last bolt. One of the best routes at the Summit.

Trundle to third bolt, then right into Gawler Bypass. New bolts and anchor to replace manky cam and rusty bolts.

Trundle down rundle to it's 3rd bolt, then break right to a fixed draw, follow the traverse right, another fixed draw, then through the roof into Space to rent. Finish at the ANZAC chains.

FA: 2012

Space to Rent to under the roof then break left and finish up Gawler Bypass. Originally done on trad.

Anzac to the 4th bolt then left (across Pivoting Head/RERL traverse) into Space to Rent - finishing as for Anzac. Take a long draw for the 5th.

Approx 2m left of the start to 'Anzac'. Trad start to old bolts leads to the RERL traverse line (at the roof). Head directly through roof approx 5m left of Anzac line and finish as for Anzac. Now bolted.

Established by Carrigan in '81, now superceded by Grurper DS & Crossroads. Up Grurper LH (rarely done) to good rest before traversing out right into the finish of what is now Crossroads.

Anzac Highway to its 4th bolt, then break left along the horizontal to join Trundle Down Rundle at its final ring bolt (crux).

FA: Steve Kelly, 2006

Climb Space to Rent to jugs just past second bolt then traverse right to the 4th bolt of Anzac Highway Amble. Finish up Anzac

Up 4 bolts Lt of Grurper direct. Then traverse up and Lt past 2 more bolts to chains. DBB

FA: Tony Barker, 2000

Up between Anzac Highway Amble and Grurper DS to a groove. Escape up R to the Grurper ledge. Features guano, poor rock and marginal protection.

FA: Colin Reece & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Start: Left of 'Crossroads'

Straight up to the exciting move onto the big ledge. 3 bolts to rap station. NB: The original Grurper starts near North Terrace Stroll and gains the big ledge from the R.

The left-trending trenchline, starting near the base of NTS. Most people place gear along the way. When it joins Crossroads, move up clipping two bolts then step L to the big ledge with the belay biners. NB: this is not Grurper DS which has 3 bolts and climbs directly to the ledge.

FA: Roger Alldritt & John Nitschke, 1972

FFA: Colin Reece & Gary Scott, 1979

An excellent addition made up of a steep bouldery start, a pumpy big-hold mid-section, then morphing into a somewhat technical slabby finish. Finish at the chain of 'North Terrace Stroll'.

FA: Peter Daish

Not particularly popular and somewhat contrived. Still worth it, particularly if you have route fitness (crux at the top). Follows Crossroads to the roof, then breaks right past underclings to gain the thin letterbox slot in the hanging headwall. Choose a sequence (dynamic or static option) then finish as for North Terrace Stroll. Extended draws for both headwall bolts are mandatory.

FA: Craig Ingram, 2006

Climb Crossroads to the roof (where it joins Pivoting Head) then traverse right above the lip of the roof to the draw above the North Terrace Stroll roof, and keep going right to the KPDM chains. Unsure on the grade - but felt harder than Tim and easier than Crossroads Direct.

FA: Paul Kinnane, 4 Jan 2020

Once considered to be 'the 29 project' - that was until Mick waltzed up it during his Summit love affair - grading it 7b+ (26) - at a time when he was doing 28's in two or three tries. Takes The Stroll to the roof, then traverses left into large underclings to gain the Crossroads RHV crux, and finishes as for that. Previously unrecorded. Could be 28.

FA: Mick Wells, 7 Feb 2013

IP to the roof, then traverse left through Payneham, past North Terrace and head through the roof of Strolling/Crossroads direct

FA: Thomas Boehm, 12 Sep

Links the start of Crossroads into the finish of North Terrace Stroll. Classic.

FA: Craig Ingram, 2006

Start up Crossroads, go into The Stroll at its rest point, then prior to main (top) roof - traverse right into KPDM. Finish as for this.

FA: JayT, 2006

Crossroads then diagonally right into KPDM then traverse the lip of the small roof to join Peregrine at its anchor.

KPDM with the Crossroads start. Crossroads for first 2/3 bolts, then traverse right into The Stroll gaining the big jugs up and left of the fixed 'biner, then finish up the remainder of KPDM.

Quite a hard onsight. Unlikely moves epitomise both crux's of this outstanding route, which breaks through the top main roof on its leftside (past the fixed 'biner).

Start: Start below a very high 1st ring bolt, climb to this, then onwards to the fixed blue 'biner (1st crux). Take the left-trending line of jugs up and left then through the main roof and up.

Takes the right-hand major roof weakness. Start as for NTS and follow it to the blue 'biner. Keep on track heading left but then kick back right through the overlap to the lip jug. Make a hard slab move to reach the break, then blast straight through the main roof via the obvious line (fixed 'biner). Back jump from the last bolt to clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

FA: Stuart Willams, 2000

Climb KPDM to the top roof, then traverse with trepidation leftwards to the finish of 'North Terrace Stroll'. Could do with another bolt!

FA: Stefan Schiller

Links Itchy Fingered into Payneham

FA: Justin Taylor, 2006

To screwgate on Stroll then up and right to Peregrine belay

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

KPDM Direct, slightly harder than KP, but easier than IP! Takes North Terrace Stroll to the fixed biner (2nd bolt) then fires directly up through the post-crux moves of Intellectual Property and rejoins KPDM at it's 3rd bolt. Consistent!

FFA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 2018

Links Itchy Fingered into KPDM - a longstanding problem finally solved.

FA: Steve Pollard, 2000

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

FA: Thomas Boehm, Jan 2020

Start up 'Peregrine' RHV until through its crux. Clip the bolt of 'Brotherhood' and traverse left into Itchy Fingered. Continue and finish as for 'North Terrace Stroll'.

FA: Craig Ingram

Local warm up route.

Bear up R, then through a roof and up the wall to a DBB.

The original Peregrine 17M5 had 5 pitches but climbing above the 2nd pitch is off limits.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, Richard Horn & Doug McLean, 1970

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Jon Chester & Greg Moore, 1979

An eliminate! Takes a contrived lefthand version of 'Peregrine' past an additional fixed hanger. Finish at the loweroff of PRHV.

The most fallen off crux move at the Summit. Takes the easy juggy start below the 1st ring bolt to a big move for a well-chalked crimp/slope - and a reach out left to a jug. Finish up on the slab.

Climb 'Peregrine LHV' and then launch up the rest of Eddie. Can also be done via the RHV start at roughly the same grade.

FA: Andy Beckworth

Pussy into Kill Like a Madam finish (pitch 2 of Peregrine finish) aka 2nd chain. Plenty of ascents, just previously unrecorded. Hard for the grade!

Been done ages ago but not recorded on this site. Up Eddie until it reaches out left within a move of Peregrine then finish up that route.

A Summit classic. Optimal power-endurance climbing at the grade. Start as for 'Peregrine' RHV but launch directly up past the 1st bolt to a 2nd. Break back left via a crimpy move (crux) into 'Pussy' and finish at the chain.

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

Eddie Misses the Point into Kill Like a Madam finish (2nd pitch of Peregrine). Unrecorded previously but had plenty of ascents.

Climb Eddie or Tim to the chain then against your better judgement, launch up and left through a runout extension to finish on the KPDM anchor.

FA: Justin Taylor, 2015

Link 'TITG" into 2nd pitch of peregrine.

FA: simon wilson

Has had more laps run on it than the 'Adelaide' Oval... Start as for Eddie, then trend rightwards to the big roof. Clip the lip bolt, dyno, and finish directly at the chain. A tad harder than Eddie.

A worth while traverse which will test your shoulders and has enough independent moves to be worth while. Start as for Eddie and climb to it’s second bolt. Now climb directly right to the second bolt of Dudley via a big span move. Then move up and right via another span move through the second bolt of Don’t Rain on the Parade, climb Parade to its the mantle, then traverse right to the chains of Natives are Restless. (Or finish up Rain on the Parade for the full package - Eddie and Dudleys Excellent Adventure)

FA: Phil Davis, 16 Aug

The full package! Climb Hutt Street Homies to the Mantle of Don’t Rain on the Parade and finish as for that route (@ Kill Like a Madam / Peregrine p3 chains)

FA: Phil Davis, 13 Aug

A tad easier than Tim! The direct start to Tim, climbing straight up to the roof from the right side of the Cave.

FA: Michael Hillan

The bolted line on the right side of the cave (no - not the furthest one!) Deceptively pumpy, with quite a technical finish.

Shallow groove between Black Dwarf and Easy Peasy. Solo. Probably been TR'd before.

FA: 2011

Furthest right hand line of bolts on right side of Cave as you walk in.

A varied and sensationally exposed single pitch climbing the entire height of the top cave.Start as for endive,but instead of heading to the corner (and belay ledge) stay in the crack, a couple of committing moves above gear lead to the traverse on endive's second pitch, follow this traverse to the line of bolts in the middle of the cave and follow the bolts to the small ledge a couple of metres above the last bolt. Best to lower from the top bolt to avoid trashing the area above the cave.

FA: 2015

The line of bolts up the middle of the cave, great line with a couple of very hard moves in the roof.

The bolted route at the right hand end of the top cave, don't let the start put you off a good route.

FA: Mark Witham & Stuart Williams , 1988

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