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Description

The cave faces South and is so large that it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike but it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is sandstone and almost all of the holds are chipped so if you're not in to that sort of thing then head to Lot 33 instead. Many of the chipped holds have been filled in since this info was written on the old ausbouldering site. Take grades with a pinch of salt... They may be much harder now...

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes Highway at North Nowra, just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 2nd right which is Philip Rd opposite the church and just after the school. Take the first left, Castle Glen Rd, and at the end turn right into Jamieson Rd. Park at the end off Jamieson Rd, North Nowra and head down the path at the end into the Bomaderry Creek Bushland. Follow the track downhill for 100m until you find a small track heading left and crossing the creek just after a small waterfall. Be careful crossing the creek and follow the track another 50m until you hit a big cave with bolted climbing, this is known as South Central. Walk through South Central and follow the path for about 100m until you reach a t-intersection. Turn right and follow the path down the hill and head left before you get to the creek. About 50m further along take the vague left track that heads up the hill to the big cave, this is Cheesedale.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start and climb the arete on its right side.

FA: Jack Folkes, 29 Jun 2014

Cramped sit start on big jug. Move straight up via sloper to top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 29 Jun 2014

Cramped sit start on big jug. Head out right on slopers before topping out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 29 Jun 2014

Sit start and traverse right to top out over the bulge.

Sit start under the small roof. Move right through honeycombs to top out over the bulge.

Sit start and up left on slopers to finish at break.

Sit start and up right on slopers to finish at break.

Up the right trending flake.

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Head left to the rail then back right to the break it's "only" V10.

FA: Steve Bullen

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break it's Australia's first V11.

FA: Steve Bullen

Sit start and up then left to finish at the break out left.

Sit start and up right to finish at the break.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem. Hard for the grade.

FA: Sam Edwards

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

FA: Steve Bullen

Start as for Turbo Guns but from the first break go with the RH to the gaston slot of Turbo Guns then a super long move around the bulge and finish as per Turbo Guns.

FA: Steve Bullen

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Still a project?

Start on the good holds below the seam and head up via the enhanced slots and the "potato" hold and match on the finishing sloper.

Start on the good holds, head up to the shallow pocket and throw around the bulge to the good hold and match to finish.

Sit start as for the "Two Fingered Destiny" but head right to join Mr Olympia and finish as per that problem.

FA: Steve Bullen

aka Don't Get Huge, Get Massive Sit start on the RH undercling and go up left to some shallow crimps, then back up right to the better holds. Take the pinch with your RH and long move around the bulge to match on the finishing hold.

FA: Steve Bullen

Sit start just right of Mr Olympia and go up RH to the pocket and head left to join Mr Olympia and finish up that problem.

FA: Steve Bullen

Sit start on the same hold as Blowing Blood but head right and finish up quite high as per Gorilla Grip.

FA: Paul Westwood

Start way right on the two obvious holds, traverse left to join Monkey Grip, and finish up the problem.

FA: Steve Bullen

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