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Black Snake Buttress All Sport climbing 8 routes in sector

Grade context: AU
Ascents: 24

12 14 16 18 20 22 24

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Description

The next area about 100m along from Indian Head, it's the vertical walls and square cut aretes after a series of slabs visible from above. The two aretes on this cliff are very different to any other routes at TJF.

Access issues inherited from Tianjara Falls

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left (south) of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities! Do not build new rock cairns - apparently there is an $11,000 fine if you do.

Approach

10-20 min

Rap in access from chains above Mystery Mossy Slab (30m) or walk along from the base of Indian Head. Use a GPS to find -35.099838, 150.338438

Descent notes

All routes have lower-off anchors.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

History

History timeline chart

There was a stray old carrot sticking of the slab - dating from the 80s or 90s perhaps? Recent history began in 2011 with Neil Monteith bolting several projects.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Done once as a mixed gear abomination in the very distant past. Now steel rules supreme. Don't expect to get off this one alive if you don't tie a knot in the end of your rope! Close to being the longest single pitch sports route at TJF. The crack splitting the wall 50 or so meters towards the waterfall from the Mystery Mossy Slab. Which by the way isn't a mystery. Climb the wall using the crack as a supplementary hold. Top out or lower to an anchor and lower again! Remember the knot!

FA: G Hill P Allen

The escape route (and rap in route). Mossy black slab 5m right of Black Snake. Originally had lone carrot halfway up sticking out a long way. Now has 5 very spaced rings and a rap chain. Needs a good brush down low but is climbable. This is a zero star route. thecrag.com database star allocation is stuffed.

FA: G. Hill in the 80s?

Major steep arête on right side of orange face. Quite unusual climbing style for 'Nowra', with lots of sideways holds and blocky edges. Start arête direct with bouldery moves past first bolt. Rest on stance then more trick moves up marbled rock to tricky crux bulge. Finish up crack.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Mystery Mossy Slab'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Excellent wall climbing straight up the face right of the major corner. Slabby start, tough move through small bulge in the middle then punch out the short roof to top of cliff jugs. Grade 25ish?

Set by Neil Monteith, 1 Aug 2014

Bolted in the windiest day ever. Start on slab 4m right of big mossy corner. Left trending line past flakes and big pocket to join into major corner crack. Layback and stem up this surprisingly clean corner to anchors under big roof. Crack seeps after heavy rain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 3 Aug 2014

Slightly overhung face just left of major corner crack. Sustained edges and pockets. 25? There is a direct finish, and an easier right version bolted.

Finish direct up sandy shallow crimps. Will add a grade to the route.

Action packed steep arête 8m left of The Regular Route. Start off ledge (bolt belay) trending left on conglomerate band to instant exposed arete perched above void. Up technical arete on small shallow pockets and reachy jugs. Pumpy right until the very last move.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 3 Aug 2014