(NOTE: As of the end of 2022 there is now a sign requesting that you do not drive down to the cliff top off Deans Gap Rd because of the recent dumping and burning of cars! ie no cars are now allowed past this sign. It is an approximate 800 walk to the regular cliff top access where the parking and burnt out cars now are) by 2 Wheel Drive and in a quiet wilderness setting, the Hylands is a sandstone cliff comprising 3 sections, the north-western and south-western cliffs and the "middle ground" area in between. The rock quality varies from loose flaky scabs and conglomerate, to slightly sandy, to clean and compact. The south-western side has continuous vertical walls up to 30m high, whereas the northwestern side is more broken up but has some interesting short walls, prows, corners, and ledges. The cliffline on which Hylands is situated is extensive and there is the potential for further development, both at Hylands, and further along the cliffline (Utopia Crag). There may also be some bouldering potential.
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
Hylands 'Lookout' is on Deans Gap Road located off Braidwood road
about south-west of 'Nowra'. From 'Nowra', take the Braidwood
Road past the air force base, continuing along the newly sealed
road. Around 20 klms from 'Nowra' a major intersection will appear with Turpentine Road joining from the left. 50 metres past this intersection, is a dirt road on the right with some chunky blue-metal gravel at the start. This is Deans Gap Road and is marked as such on many maps.
From Canberra, Deans Gap Road is about 100m on the left past the first 'Turpentine Rd' sign.
Zero your odometer when you turn onto Deans Gap Rd – it passes under some power lines (turn left here for 'Panther' crga access) after about 3km; at 3.5km from Braidwood Rd take a road on the left which appears on a right-hand bend; 'Hylands Lookout' is a further 700m along at the end of this road. If your car can negotiate the last rocky section of the road, you will be deposited directly on top of the cliff. There is a great view down the valley, carved out by Boolijong Creek. The road goes left for another 50m which takes you directly to the top of the south-western cliff. Either scramble down the cairned gully/chimney here or for 'Utopia' crags walk south along cliff top (follow yellow tags in trees) for 300 mtrs and go down the wide gully and turn left, continue along the bottom of the cliff for another 150 mtrs and you should come to "Crash and Burn" wall, just around the corner is "Middle Earth" area and 150 mtrs further is "Punch and Judy" area. To get to "Wave Walls" walk another 200 mtrs along until you come across a section of orange cliff about 10 mtrs high the climbs start at the end at present.
© (nmonteith)Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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