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Description

Large horizontal cave with adjacent grey walls.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Turn right walking away from western access rung/scramble heading west. Or turn right walking away from main access rungs walking to the west.

Ethic inherited from Cassia Cliffs

Squeeze jobs and lazy variants will reign supreme, as most of the walls are blank at the bottom third and its the only way to fit in a load of bolts. Limited scope for long independent face routes exists after Hill gives up climbing.

Routes

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Grade Route

Most western bolted cliff.

First climb as you approach from the walk in. Climb the left side of a prominent arete, bolted perfectly to give the option of arete or face on left. Both options climb well with plenty of delicate climbing.

FA: John Lattanzio, 12 Sep 2018

Large cave with horizontal roof climbing capped with 15m face above cave.

Roof proj Jake west end of cave

Up 3m face at east end of cave into cave. Route was set to be climbed as a roof from second bolt for 15m then rest at base of 15m face before the final hurl.

FA: Jake, 12 Feb 2018

First clip is third bolt for Where Did I come From, climbing a perpendicular line through it to bolt at lip of cave and up finishing on Dream Trader.

Set by Jake, Apr 2018

Start as for 'Where Did I come From' first bolt only and climb sstraight up through impossible looking moves.

FA: Jake, 20 Apr 2018

Climb start of Where Am I for 3 bolts then traverse left into Dream Trader.

FA: Jake, 12 Apr 2018

Start on Nebuchadnezzar for 2 bolts step left onto face traversing through Where Am I to 3m flake and up. For ease of cleaning rather than tie in at Dream Trader anchor, it is best to strip it on lead and down climb traverse right to tie in and lower off Where Am I anchor.

FA: Jake, 2018

Climb start of filthy off width for two bolts then traverse left into Where Am I. Can be best to climb Dream Trader first and travrse right at anchor to Where Am I anchor and rap down to see moves.

FA: Jake, 12 May 2018

Starts at the obvious bolted offwidth at the eastern end of Where Cave.

Don't be intimidated by the offwidth, it climbs easily as a face route.

FA: Stephen Varney, 2018

Pumpy and engaging. Stickclip first bolt and start 2m left of corner (Abednego). Move to crack for a few moves between 4th & 5th bolt.

FA: Stephen Varney, 2018

An amazing route with a tough crux sequence. Same start as Shadrach but branches right

FA: Stephen Varney, 2019

Start up corner and traverse out right. When the ledge ends go straight up through caves to lower off at top. medium wires, BD cams to #3, double the small ones. A really big sling (4ft+) is optional.

Wall to the right of the corner. Climbs free standing pillar on the right side.

Set by Graeme Hill, 25 Oct 2018

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