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Juggernaut Crag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
7

Description

Another opportunity to recreate in nature.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Routes

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Grade Route

First route on left of wall.

FFA: E. Wells, 23 May

Route 15m right of other. Very high stickclip. Fingery climbing finishing half way up wall.

FFA: E. Wells, 23 May

Rap in route with hanging belay left of Diet and Exercise. Good luck finding top. U bolt at top ledge to gain abseil point. Clip 2 draws on way down to land at uncomfortable hanging belay. Fingery off the belay undercling , technical on good rock. Could be 22.

FFA: E. Wells & J. Tam, 13 Jun

Up through white roof flake past steep bulge and onto bullet hard crimp wall, then eases off. Bolted for others as its proper hard down low.

Steep climbing in slime past 3 bolts leads to gear, then another bolt and crack to loweroff. A single rack up to #2 with double #1 and double #2 is suffice. No wires necessary though you could probably protect the whole line with a swag of hexes. Dirty start leads to pleasant problem solving on excellent rock. F.a used 4x 80cm slings (two at start cave/hole and 2x at end under loweroff.

FFA: E. Wells & J.Tam

Direct start to Larynx Bird up flake and through overlap.

Furthest right. Scramble up onto ledge leading left to belay bolt. Climb left then up. Direct start still to be climbed.

FFA: E. Wells, 23 May

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