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No Man's Land

  • Grade context: AU
6
AU
22

Description

Approach as for Utopia, at the bottom of the first gully turn right and follow the track about 100m to first climbs. The routes are described right to left from this approach. Alternatively can be approached from Hylands Lookout, Busted Arse area by walking along the base of the cliff.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

The area between Hylands and 'Utopia'

© (ropedonkey)

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Hard start trend right easier as you move up. 3 metres right of Leeched as Bro.

Straight up above the stump via 10 bolts with a rest halfway.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2010

3m left of Leech as Bro.

Half bolted, but no more steel. When is the next batch of 1000m steel coming ?

3m left of Ho's B4 Bros.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up

Start: just right of the corner

Hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up. just right of the corner

20m further left. The unmistakable thin crack in the yellow wall.

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Tue 18 Apr
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