Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hogwarts | |||||
22 | ★ The Devious Crack of Sirius Black
Start just left of Wingardium Leviosa. Up the crack line FA: P.Rattenbury, 2011 | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Wingardium Leviosa
Start under the roof on the left side of the crag. Traverse out the roof and once on the headwall follow the left line of bolts FA: M LeBreton, 2011 | 12m | |||
14 | ★ Expelliarmus
Same start as Wingardium Leviosa but at the headwall follow the right set of bolts. FA: M LeBreton, 2011 | 12m | |||
20 | ★ The Golden Snitch
FA: 2011 | 12m | |||
15 | ★ Sirius Black
Start 1m right of the corner. Straight up to the left line of scoops. FA: 2011 | 12m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Is Graeme Hill Severus Snape?
Pretty epic moves at the start and bomber rock on the headwall! Starts in the obvious scoop right of the 15. Stick clip first bolt and launch out the steepest part of the bulge. Shares anchor with the 15. FA: Alec Landstra & Match, 24 Aug 2020 | 12m | |||
P.C. | |||||
24 | Mr Mojo
FA: George Fieg, 1993 | 10m | |||
25 | ★★ Squeeze The Trigger
Impressive roof route in the cave just south of the descent rungs. Has been rebolted recently. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1993 | 15m | |||
21 | ★ Blue Vein Custard Chucker
A classic Nowra name. The route however has been mostly reclaimed by nature. FA: Peter Wriggly & Steve Barry, 1991 | 15m | |||
28 | ★★ Big, Thick And Powerful
Start to the left of Fukdifino and join this route at the ledge. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1993 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Fukdifino
The only 'easy' route at the crag, and a good warm-up. This is the well-chalked overhung corner crack at the far left end of the cliff. Some of the bolts on this route are looking worse for wear - best not to lob on them all day. The anchors are a bit of a squeeze to get your rope and a biner through as well. FA: Paul Westwood, 1991 | 15m | |||
PC Project 1
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26 | Done Walker
Start in the tree. FA: Sharik Walker, 2010 | 12m | |||
31/32 | ★★ Kamikaze Critter
FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
32 | ★★ The Divine Wind
FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
PC Project 3
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32 | ★★★ Attack Mode
The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 NA: Rose Weller, Jun 2021 | 9m | |||
34 | ★★★ White Ladder
Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder. FA: Chris Webb | 13m | |||
34 | ★★★ The White Ladder
Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge. | 17m | |||
33/34 | ★★★ Direct Attack
Start Attack mode but go direct. FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
PC Project 5
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30 | ★★ Spineless
FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
29 | ★★★ Dude Food
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1991 | 11m | |||
31 | ★★ Dedicated to Dude
A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2010 | 20m | |||
29 | ★★ Vogue
Super bouldery roof. The original flake in the roof broke and has now been replaced by a drilled pocket. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 12m | |||
26 | ★★★ Church Of Christ
Start with a big throw around the lip heading left past rings. Gather your thoughts, bust through the crux and keep trucking to the end. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★★ Turn Your Eyes Insane
Bang out the steep start, break right and keep pumping. FA: Dave Filan, 1991 | 16m | |||
29 | ★★ Hopelessly Devoted To You
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996 | 18m | |||
25 | Thank You, Come Again
3 bolt boulder problem. Soft if you can reach the big pocket. FA: Paul Westwood, 1996 | 8m | |||
27 | ★★★ Hard Candy
A pocket boulder gem. Tricky and funky start getting easier leading up to the sand pit. Get a good rest then knuckle down through and couple big moves and a wicked stretchy pocket boulder top. FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 18m | |||
26 | ★★ Shocked
Out small roof and up lovely face to glory. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992 | 18m | |||
27 | Super Shocked
The extension to Shocked. No anchor so jump off. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1997 | 21m | |||
26 | ★★ Gay Porn is Art
A bouldery start leads to some excellent moves in steepy, pumpy territory. Save some for the top. If it's all too hard clip the anchors on Bachelor's Ball, but for the full experience tick go all the way. Set: Luke, 2012 FA: Danny Ewald, 7 Mar 2015 | 20m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★ Bachelor's Ball
Starts as for Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo but breaks left at mid height and and finishes above the crux on Shocked. Was 24 for years but most people feel it's fair at 25. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 18m | |||
25 | ★★ Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo
The hardest of the three 25s in this section. Climb first two bolts of BB, then go direct up the wall just left of Trigga. FA: Paul Westwood, 1996 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ Escape From the Drilling Fields
Cue '90s era gangsta rap. Originally given a different name, the first ascentionist has requested that it now be known by this name. Excellent steep climbing, and the classic Nowra 25. Start where the undercut roof touches the ground (at a ring bolt). FA: Andrew Bull, 1992 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★★ Brother
Don't go getting offended by the route name, once again this was comment on what was happening in society (Black Death in Custody) when the routes were climbed and the music being listened to. Continuing the tradition of excellent 28's at Nowra. Backup anchor added in 2004. Start: Start 2m to the right of EFTDF. The undercling at the crux snapped off around 2012-13, but there's still a sequence. FA: George Fieg, 1995 | 17m | |||
28 | ★★★ Meet The G
Start just right of Brother in a Body Bag. A series of boulder problems that get harder the higher you get. Finish at anchors below rooflet. | 17m | |||
31 | ★★ Meet the G that Killed Me
The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor. FA: Chris Webb | 20m | |||
30 | ★★ The Master Cylinder
The line just to the right of Meet The G. Fun climbing via some sandy sections to a heartbreaker ending. Conditions help. Previously known by another name. The first ascentionist has requested that the route be known by the original name given to it by the equipper. FA: Nathan Hoette | 20m | |||
25 | ★ Super Geek
FA: Julie Anderson, 1997 | 10m | |||
25 | ★ Pauls With A Permit
FA: Julian Saunders, 1996 | 10m | |||
25 | ★★ Bullet With Butterfly Wings
FA: Julie Anderson, 1996 | 12m | |||
25 | ★ Super Weak
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m, 7 | |||
24 | ★ Kattack Mode
FA: Brian Rattenbury, 1997 | 10m | |||
26 | Don't Tell the Priest, but it's a Boy
FA: Brian Rattenbury, 1996 | 15m | |||
26 | No Notice
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993 | 20m | |||
23 | Sunroom Wanker
FA: Mark Weiser, 1996 | 20m | |||
Powerlines Area | |||||
20 | ★ X-Ray Ted
Beware loose rock in the flake & choss on the runout headwall. FA: Michael Fawcett, 1999 | 26m, 6 | |||
★ Project
Surely someone has done this, it looks pretty straight forward. | |||||
19 | ★ Pick The Nose
FA: John Koster, 1999 | 12m | |||
The Colosseum | |||||
Project (A)
One of the 'unknown' project routes, located just West of The Colosseum main routes. | 6 | ||||
22 | ★ Slimey Ken's Knob
The first route here. FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth & Peter Monks, 1999 | 9m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Barbie's Bitchin'
FA: Andrew Duckworth, 1999 | 9m, 3 | |||
25 | Teflon Barbie
Giles Bradbury was called in to free either this line or Seven Eleven at grade 25 in mid-late 1999 and he named it Teflon Barbie. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1999 | 11m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Seven Eleven
FA: David Brown, 2000 | 11m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Chocolate Jollies
A wall for the slope specialist. Deserves more ascents to keep it clean but probably won’t get em until people stop worrying about the grade! Start: The next route right of SE. FA: G Hill | 11m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Pole Knots
Similar climbing although not so desperate. Start: Right of CJ. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: G Hill | 11m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Too Cute Too Shoot
You guessed it crimping and slope slapping at its best. Start: Next line right of PS Hard 22 FA: G Hill | 9m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Trust
A little more reasonable still hard enough to have fun on. Start: Next right of TCTS. Hard last move FA: V Hill | 11m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Fantastiffy
A lot better in that its hard in places. Do not let that put you off think strong and its easy. Start: Yep right again from T. FA: G Hill | 11m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Wonderfully Wicked Women
FA: John Koster, 1999 | 23m, 2, 7 | |||
Project (B)
One of the 'unknown' project routes, located at the far East of The Colosseum at the scramble gully. | |||||
The Island DWS | |||||
V1 | ★ Front face traverse
A nice techy traverse of the front face. Start on the obvious ledge near the rope, and traverse until you can stand again on the back right face. Best done L to R. Your feet may get wet depending on the tide. FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | 15m | |||
V1 | ★ Perelandra
Traverse along the bottom, feet in green, hands on lowest rail. Might be a low tide only climb. Underneath black face traverse FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 15 Sep 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★★ Back Face Traverse
Classic juggy traverse of the back face on cool features. Can be done either direction. FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | 10m | |||
V0 | ★★ Fish eye
The fun arete featuring a sweet pocket horn combo. FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Flathead
Just right of Fish eye, up via nice pockets. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Tailor
A nice line up through a few good edges. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Flounder
A cool move between monos near the top of the cliff to slopy top out. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Mullet
Cool move from a small crimpy edge. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Top lip traverse
Nice traverse of the top lip on slopers and pockets FA: Ari Landstra, 2019 | 8m | |||
V1 | The Sunset Limited
Up the white stripe between Tailor and Flounder. No reaching into the other climb holds to make more challenging. Fun moves. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 15 Sep 2023 | ||||
Donutland Leftside | |||||
22 | I Balled A Bullfighter
FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 7m, 2 | |||
22 | Born On Christmas Eve
FA: Veronique Hill, 1990 | 7m, 3 | |||
23 | Poupee Gonflabee
2 chain anchor. FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 8m, 3 | |||
25 | Quarter Horse
FA: Rod Young, 2002 | 12m | |||
Project (A)
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23 | ★★★ Half A Cow
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 17m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Apple Related Tragedy
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 22m, 6 | |||
9 | ★ Blade Runner
| 25m | |||
13 | ★★ Blade Flake
FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999 | 22m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Beans on Toast
Two carrot bolts up a slab, then up and left to the steeper flake with three more carrots to a single U anchor. The relatively easy middle bit can be optionally protected with a few cams from camalot .3-3 Warning: Large flake near the last bolt is broken and loose in the crack. FA: Veronique Hill, 1990 | 18m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Taste Of Mexican Meat
FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Snot And Udders
Warning: Fixed protection need replacing. Warning: Massive beehive 2m right of the route. Beesuit is advised when climbing. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 10m | |||
17 | Kisses And Cuddles
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1990 | 12m | |||
19 | ★ Hugging And Fucking
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1990 | 12m | |||
12 | ★ Flake
| 25m | |||
9 | Jammer
| 25m | |||
25 | Hit the Deck
The steep arête & hanging lip starting just R of Jammer, with heaps of fixed nonsense. FA: Pete Tosen | ||||
24 | ★★★ Rainbow Wreckage
Fully ringbolted as of 2011. A striking splitter handcrack through one of the biggest, chossiest caves in Nowra, but amazingly the rock in the crack itself actually looks sorta ok. FA: Rod Young, 2000 | 25m, 10 | |||
23 | Airpower
FA: Andy, 1997 | 15m | |||
Project
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21 | ★ Sinucab
FA: Rod Young, 1989 | 18m | |||
20 | ★ Where There's Pork There's Fire
Hard little move off the deck then it gives up. Start: At little corner crack right of S. FA: G Hill | 10m | |||
23 | Flirt & Squirt
Only goes up to the same level as where there's Pork. Rope drag (and ability)prevented continuation. FA: G Hill | 15m | |||
23 | Rambone Machine
| 30m | |||
23 | Pulling Off The Rambone Machine
The first climb i bolted with the petrol drill and carrots, then later filled it with rings. Really good climbing after the slightly flaky lower section. Start: At the bottom of the slot right of the arete. FA: G Hill, 1989 | 30m | |||
25 | Rambos Got Me By The Nuts -Open Project
Up scoop then over to the crack at the top of this traverse to the left and onto the wall above. Start: Same as POTRM. FA: Doddy will give it a burn.., 2000 | 30m | |||
Donutland Rightside | |||||
26 | ★★ Wolfgang Donut
One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it. Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot. FA: Ant Prehn, 1989 | 10m, 3 |