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Description

An excellent vertical wall with a selection of very good routes. Very underrated.

© (Ashy)

Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Approach

Up the alley before 'Vanderholics' wall.

© (Ashy)

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The cute little arete. Start on the ground below the ledge. Take care or stick clip high first bolt.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1991

Clip 1st bolt on Me (and that's it), then move right to gain obvious side pull feature thingo and up thru some techy moves. Continue into Suze when it gets easy.

FA: Jason Lammers, 13 Sep 2014

Left of SM. Tricky 1st move

FA: Jason Lammers, 13 Sep 2014

Stay Direct. Once described as soft. Often considered reachy and difficult. You decide.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off

Hidden Gem

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

Probably 22 now that the boulder has rolled down the gully.

FA: Rod Young, 1991

Very good climbing, which makes you appreciate how average 'Killer Boas' really is. Superb friction.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

Another total classic which deserves more ascents. Rebolted 2008

Start: Start below the Ubolts, a few metres left of the big crack.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1991

crimpy, just right and down the gully from Up the alley

FA: Venus Kondos, 1996

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1991

Looks bad, but is actually quite good - in an adventurous way.

Start: Start next to the path, just left of the mossy corner.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

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