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Vanderholics Wall

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Description

A lovely black wall with a big cave in the middle of it. Contains a number of good route.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Approach

Just to the left of butterfly wall, or just right aroudn the corner from the Alley wall.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Choss

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 2000

Tricky start just right of arête. Up with a couple of committing moves to jugs. New bolts, new grade 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990

A couple of random carrots that lead to no where.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1991

Up small corner for 3 bolts (take care clipping the 2nd) to rooflet. Over the rooflet on small holds. Continue up on easier ground to some funky moves on the arete left of FM.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

Very thin start then consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!!

FA: Rod Young, 1994

Beaut sustained climbing.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack. Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

FA: Ant Prehn, C Paul & Giles Bradbury, 1991

FA: Derek Morton, 1997

Major crack line splitting the face starting just right of 'Vanderholics' - a great trad route. Up crack for 10m to horizontal break, traverse right across 'Gina Hardface' and continue up corner crack above (ignoring the bolts). Rap off rings above 'Gina Hardface'. Medium to large cams.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

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