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Description

The most striking and impressive wall on the crag.

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Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Approach

Immediately right of 'Vanderholics' wall and below the carpark.

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Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Line a couple of metres left of Butterfly Wall. Up thinly past a few bolts to the crux. The dyno isn't mandatory but the move is impossible to dog past without hauling a stick clip. Excellent route, up there with the other classics on this wall.

FA: Mike Law, 1996

The original start is now generally superseded by BWD

Start: Just right of the corner at a flake, as for BP.

FA: Ant Prehn

FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993

A beautiful route on great rock. Start: 5 meters right of the corner - directly below the obvious butterfly feature high on the wall.

FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade. Used to be very easy for the grade before crucial holds were glued up for the FA of No More Gaps. The nasty mono became a duo tho'

Start: Start below the obvious duo, which can just be reached off the boulder.

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991

Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow. Start 6m right of Butterfly Wall, the same as for Stone Roses.

Tara Sutherland's mid-late 1990s ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

Brackets on the blunt arete below Concrete Petunias. Looks absurdly hard. Even 20 years ago it was a futuristic open project.

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