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Butterfly Wall

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Description

The most striking and impressive wall on the crag.

© (aca_admin)

Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Approach

Immediately right of 'Vanderholics' wall and below the carpark.

© (aca_admin)

Ethic inherited from Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Line a couple of metres left of Butterfly Wall. Up thinly past a few bolts to the crux. The dyno isn't mandatory but the move is impossible to dog past without hauling a stick clip. Excellent route, up there with the other classics on this wall.

FA: Mike Law, 1996

The original start is now generally superseded by BWD

Start: Just right of the corner at a flake, as for BP.

FA: Ant Prehn

FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993

A beautiful route on great rock. Start: 5 meters right of the corner - directly below the obvious butterfly feature high on the wall.

FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993

An old 90's project finally put to rest! Starts to the right of 'Butterfly Wall Direct' on the detached block. Up through a scabby section (glued rail), then sustained crimping and a fun fight to the finish.

Set: Mikl Law

FFA: matt hoschke, 11 Sep 2022

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade. Used to be very easy for the grade before crucial holds were glued up for the FA of No More Gaps. The nasty mono became a duo tho'

Start: Start below the obvious duo, which can just be reached off the boulder.

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991

Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow. Start 6m right of Butterfly Wall, the same as for Stone Roses.

Tara Sutherland's mid-late 1990s ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

Brackets on the blunt arete below Concrete Petunias. Looks absurdly hard. Even 20 years ago it was a futuristic open project.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

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Fri 23 Jun
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