The Grease Cave



Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake. Also, respect closures of areas of Aboriginal heritage value - the small wall under Cowboy Junkies is closed. Let's not see mass crag closures like what has happened in the Grampians happen at Nowra.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25.

FA: John Passlow, 1992

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991

This route is an absolute blast and a NSW classic. It climbs the longest line through the massive roof. 'Excellent'.

Start: Start up the corner and slab on the left hand side of the Grease Cave.

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

Links Top one Thommo into 'Slip It In'. Apparently you traverse right out of TOT before its crux, and then finish up the redpoint crux of SII.

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

A savage little number with a very hard crux.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1994

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

Given 27 in the 2011 Nowra guide.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

The tricky off angle arete, used to be 25..

FA: Giles Bradbury & Ant Prehn, 1991

Link-up with good (but safe) air potential.

Start: Start as for 'Lost Weekends'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

An old Wishart project.

Start: As for 'Lost Weekend' then out the roof on the flake.

FA: S.Gardner, 2006

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

Link Up - Start up Sexy is the word, cross though skin to skin and finish up 'White Trash'

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on skin to skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

Start: Up either White Trash or Sexy Is The Word.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2007

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 22 Jul 2014

2m right of SITW , rebolted May 2017.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

Warning Fixed Gear: Loose bolt

FA: George Fieg, 1993

A good fun boulder problem. The 'problem' is clipping all the bolts! A hard one to grade.

FA: Dave Filan, 1993

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

Galvanic corrosion=no thanks.

FA: Julian Saunders & Simon Atkins, 1992

FA: Glenn Jones, 1999

A route every wannabe should climb. Not your average 21, but a worthy journey.

FA: Mike Law, 1992

Take brackets.

FA: Garth Miller & Paul Watkins, 1991

FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991

A nice line with good climbing, but quite a tricky cruxy. Might be reachy for some.

Start: Up the left hand corner in the alcove.

FA: G Hill This is Frig the Pig

FA: G Hill

If you can climb it you can have it. Bolted with the idea that finger nails were expendable resources and that when you ripped them all off they would one day grow back. Don't bleed too much over the rock.

Start: Start as for the previous route, but then go directly up the slab at half height.

Interesting slabbing. This route should be everyones cup of tea as it takes no power or endurance just a bit of stick. So give it to it.

Start: As for FTP. In the corner.

FA: G Hill

FA: Mike Ellims, 1989

A push over for the grade. Soft as slime.

Start: On the wall just left of the arete.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

FA: Graeme Hill

A ripper of a climb. Ripping your finger nails off will be its legacy if you have the balls to try it. Short and a little stiff like the Japanese.

Start: At little weakness in wall a few meters right of BwB arete

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

Bit dirty FA: Rod Young

FA: Rod Young

Nice slabby moves FA: Rod Young

FA: Rod Young


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