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Betty Blue Area

Seasonality

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Description

A great looking wall with a variety of good routes.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Thompson's Point

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

Approach

30m past the grease cave - this is pretty much the last area before the wastelands.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rebolted with a reshuffle. RAD !

FA: Graeme Hill, 1991

FA: Dave Filan & David Haines, 1989

Hard move guards the anchors. Rebolted 2012

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

FA: Karl Schultz, 1993

Dangerous protection.

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991

The obvious sandy corner crack left of NASAS. Now sport bolted on rings. Route could also take natural gear. use anchors high to left to lower off.

FA: David O'Donnell & Ryan Kelly, 2004

Start: Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt.

FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992

FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992

FA: George Fieg, 1993

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

FA: Andrew Bull, 1996

On the mossy boulder opposite Petit Miam.

Up wall to belay stance below roof.

Start: Start 5m right of 'PM'

FA: M Law

From the belay head diagonally out left through the roof to a break. Traverse back right a little and up final head wall.

Start: Start at the belay above 'JP1'.

FA: Mike Law, 2003

Straight out roof, traverse left to rest then nice face climbing to finish with hands on top of cliff.

Start: Start as for 'J'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

Up the poorly protected slab onto fun sidepull features. Bring a bolt plate and a sling for before the roof. Headwall is excellent to a jug above drb anchor.

FA: Tony Barton & Andrew Bull, 1991

Maximises the climbing to be had on this fantastic wall. Extend your draws!

ROUTE: Start up Shifting Sands and clip its last bolt but instead of pulling right onto the face, stay left and climb directly up to the first bolt of A Day At The Beast. From here, head left to join into Speed Boat Wankers for three bolts, THEN STEP LEFT AGAIN and finish at the anchor of Funkenstein. You may wish to finish at the Speed Boat Wanker anchor for a grade 24.

ADVICE: The first bolt of A Day At The Beast should be equipped with an extra long runner (unless you like rope drag). You may wish to climb up to the Shifting Sands anchor then scoot left to preplace this protection.

CLEANING: Can be done while getting lowered with some minor shenanigans and a re-direct (or re-thread) at the Shifting Sands anchor.

There are numerous variations on this linkup but I assure you that this is the best one.

From where ADATB steps right, climb straight up the flake/arete feature until the last bolt. Clip, take a deep breath, pull onto the face, and climb up to the ADATB anchor.

Don't keep climbing up the left side of the flake/arete (after clipping the last bolt), this skips the crux.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

Up the slab towards the ledge with the obvious sandy cave feature. Stay on the outside of this, moving right to join into the amazing line of scoops and follow this until the last bolt (finish here for Half Day At The Beach: 20). From here, move left on crimpers to the anchor for full value.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

Having climbed 'ADATB' traverse left across the lip of the roof all the way to the far end. CAUTION: Back-climb the fucker .

Start: Start as for 'ADATB'.

FA: M Law, 2000

Climb the funky flakes left of kicking dogs balls. Rebolted and extended 23/6/12

FA: Unknown, 2000

FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992

much funk. Start up Kicking Dogs Balls and onwards to a double dragon move through the roof out right

FA: Mike Law, 1995

Clip first bolt on 'Betty Blue' and head left. Crank up on the crimpers to the final throw making sure to take a few whips for the camera along the way!

Start: Start at 'Betty Blue'

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

Warning Rock: Loose flake

A very appealing wall. One of the most enjoyable routes at its grade in 'Nowra'.

Start: Start a few meters right of 'Black Beddy'.

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991

Straight up the groove, then slightly left and up to a great jug rest. Recover and fire out the airy crux.

Start: Start 2m left of SL at slight groove. New anchor 23/6/2012

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

Extension of 'TP'.

FA: Mitch Warren

Classic 'Nowra' arete - which is hard and pumpy.

Start: Start at the obvious arete to the right of 'TP'. Some people do an easier start on the face a few metres left of the arete proper.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Ant Prehn, 1990

An absolute ripper of a climb and totally different to the typical 'Nowra' power mutant hard stuff.

Start: Start on ledge above 'SL'

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1992

Climb the black slab around the arete right of 'SL'

FA: L Wishart

4 RB's to lower off.

Start: Wall 5m right of 'SL'

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

Start: Start 3m right of 'E'.

FA: J.Tam, 2004

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

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