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Description

Picturesque setting by the river, nice sunny aspect (although you'll melt in summer.) You can expect the occasional loose or wobbly block - bring your helmet.

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Descent notes

Most routes have lower-offs.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Mark Witham (solo)

Begin just R of Quokka and climb onto a big block below the L end of the roof. Step up R (be wary of the flakes) then head directly to the arête and continue

FFA: Robert Moog Mark Whitam, 1987

Start 1.5m L of the corner at the R end of the wall. Through the small roof and continue up the bulgy wall above

FFA: Robert Moog Mark Whitham, 1987

Start at the small gum tree. Monkey onto wall, continue up left to break and then through bulges.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 27 Jul 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 27 Jul 2011

Right of nose on wall starting left of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to ledge. Pull through roof around large block on right then easily up left to chains.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 21 Sep 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 21 Sep 2011

Right of nose on wall starting right of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to Break below streaked bulge. Pull through roof using blades.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 9 Oct 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 9 Oct 2011

Distinct line of ring bolts leading to very technical crux off a huge jug right near the top.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

‘Warning - There is a wasp nest on this’ Climb right trending diagonal line to a prominent horizontal below a groove/series of vertical sidepulls. Undertake an interesting crux sequence through these to gain shelf up and left. Further jug hauling brings the anchor to hand.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

A good route that is not hard for the grade and is well protected. Good holds and moves the whole way.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

Takes the right hand line through the worst rock quality in this sector. Climb up off the hand traverse chain to a series of loose jugs and flakes (if you must).

FFA: Hamish Meffin

History’s cloudy but first bolted in early 2000’s with home made hangers. Recently re equiped. Climb easy face to traverse line. Move around bulge through a tricky clip to chockstone under final head wall. Sequence up head wall to double bolts over roof. (1 historic hanger left on route but not needed for line).

FA: Daniel Toone, 13 Feb

Same start as for Project 1. Relied on a big flake that the route equipper was hoping would stay on the wall - but this was wishful thinking, as was the climbing. Equipped but now unclimbable.

Dirty and loose. Direct line left of Shelf Life up to chain under big roof then continuation out to arete and finish at top anchor.

Set: Mike Hillan

Up chossy slab to corner, then launch out left across the short hand traverse then up arete to horizontal traverse line and traverse left all the way out onto the hanging arete (crux). Finish up final easy headwall, or better still, just back climb from there.

FA: Steve Kelly, 31 Jan 2015

The style of climbing might not appeal. As for Shelf Life to 1st BR then right and through roof into the ‘groove of pain’. Unconventional climbing leads up this to a no hands rest, then break right and finish up Trading Places.

FA: 8 Dec 2020

Aka ‘Pikers Variant’. Climb Shelf Life to halfway (the first anchor). Back clean.

FA: Steve Kelly, 31 Jan 2015

Climb 'Trade Route' to the traverse line, then finish as for Shelf Life. Back climb. Careful with rope drag.

FA: Redanon, Oct 2017

Trade Route to traverse (skip Trades anchor & clip traverse BR with 2ft extension). Pull small roof left of next BR, then up into corner and out onto hanging arete. Finish as for Camel Filter. Be careful of rope direction at top of Trade. 24/25

FA: 15 Nov 2020

The first half of ‘The Spice Trade’ avoids the rope drag issue on that route and although short, packs in three star quality into a mere 14 moves. Start as for ‘The Art of Seeing’ (1 BR) and trend left into the steep crack line. A technical problem leads past two more BR’s, followed by an undercling crux at the 4th. A 5th BR gets you to the break line. DBB lower off.

FA: 2017

Prepare to get smoked. On a par with Lust in terms of quality. Climb 'The Trade Route' to its finish, then launch through a six move undercling sequence to reach the 7th BR. Another boulder problem then follows to a prominent handjam. From here, run it out 3.5m to the left hand anchor. Extend the 7th draw and take two extensions for the lower off. 7 BRs to DBB. (No hands rest left of ‘The Trade Route’ anchor is off route and makes it a full grade easier).

FA: Steve Kelly, 26 May 2018

Was previously a closed project equipped by Nick Ducker and Matty B, then 'opened' in April 2018 for the masses. Climb 'Camel Filter' to the handjam at the end of its crux (7th BR), then up right past final boulder problem (8th BR) to lower off.

Set: Nick Ducker & Matthew Broadbent, 2017

FA: Steve Kelly, 7 Dec 2019

FFA: 7 Dec 2019

Emphysema is the next step... More sustained than CDS with a much more logical finish. Take Emphysema to its crux, then instead of moving right under the final bolt, move left via gastons into the very finish of CDS. More sustained than CDS but easier than Emphysema.

Emphysema’. The direct result of the addiction to ‘Marlboro Red’. Climb ‘Marlboro Red’ to the 7th BR. Head directly up face to the start of the roof for a brief rest. Use pinches and crimps to fight through blank bulging roof clipping 2 more bolts to gain final head wall. (Extend last draw past lip of the roof to minimise rope drag)

Set: Redanon

FA: Daniel Toone, 6 Jul 2020

Climb ‘Camel Filter’ to its (6th BR). Instead of clipping the extended (7th BR), break right clipping 3 more through a 13 move boulder problem under roof to gain a set of jugs over the lip. Mantel and finish up the corner at the chains above.

Set: Redanon

FA: Daniel Toone, 6 Jun 2020

First scoped in 2004 and dismissed, then revisited after 10 years. Up easy wall 4m left of the start to Stalagmite Addiction past two bolts to mantle onto small ledge. Undercling then reach right to slopers (4th BR on face) and up the blank wall/corner to gain a good break under the roof. From here take first weakness out main roof to 'the bowl hold' on the lip. Continue through tricky terrain to good jug several moves above. An easier section through the final rooflet gets you to the chain just below cliff top. Take 10 draws (two for the chain) and back clean.

FA: Steve Kelly, 1 Jul 2015

Two boulder problems with a good rest in between makes this one for the boulderer. Soft for the grade as well! Start as for The Art of Seeing and follow this for 4 BRs to roof. Skip the 5th BR and the bolt on the slab (Silk Road bolt) and continue rightwards into the roof of One Hold One Quest (extended draw). Finish as for that route. 6 BR to anchor if you skip the 5th.

FA: Steve Kelly, 11 Jun 2016

A 60 move marathon that tests all of your skills. A limestone like 24 leads into a technical slab traverse, which then morphs into a brutal double roof. Follow Stalagmite Addiction, bypass its anchor and move left across slab. Take 2nd roof weakness (skip clipping the Silk Rd BR), and follow the line to the top of the cliff.

FA: 23 Jun 2019

The snake shaped line linking ‘Top Shelf Material’ into ‘Emphysema’ finish. Climb TSM past it’s toilet bowl crux, then traverse left under roof to finish on ‘Emphysema’ crux to chains. 70+ moves through face, slabs, roofs and cut loose crux’s over 14 bolts. Extend last draw of Stalagmite and all slab traverse bolts. Unclip final 2 draw as your being lowered off to minimise drag when pulling the rope.

FA: Daniel Toone, 10 Mar

Start standing on stalagmite and head up following bolts on layaway's and slopers. Move into heel hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR continue straight up to final overlap and onto headwall.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 1 Jan 2014

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 1 Jan 2014

FFA: Justin Taylor (direct finish), 25 Aug 2014

Climb all of Stalagmite Addiction to the holds above its chain and continue left across the technical hanging slab to a good rest. Take first roof weakness via a dynamic crux out to lip, then up short headwall to the anchor. 10 bolts to the chain. Be sure to extend the final draw past the lip and skip clipping the Addiction chain.

FA: Steve Kelly, 20 Dec 2014

Project. Has been freed in 3 sections. An excursion of epic proportions (80 METER ROPE REQUIRED). Climb 'Stalagmite Addiction' to the last bolt & instead of clipping the anchor head left for what feels like an eternity. Follow traverse left with 15+ slings until you hit the corner. Blast out onto the head wall up a couple of bolts to the anchor. (A super pumper of a route)

Takes Stalagmite Addiction to beyond its crux, then above its 5th bolt above the final overlap, traverse right across a sloper into the corner and good rest (24 to here). Clip face bolt then reach right via underclings to prominent sidepull then up to flat-top jug. Choose a sequence into Lust and try not to blow it before the 7th. 8 BRs to chain. Extend 5th.

FA: Steve Kelly, 5 Sep 2015

A masterpiece bolted by Ross Meffin, now re-equipped. The best route of its grade in the Adelaide region. Up easy wall to roof, then big move to gain horizontal. Traverse left to slopers then cut back right to nose and tricky mantle. A good rest is followed by your choice of wild dyno or big lock-off further up, but don't blow the finish!

FA: Sharik Walker, 1999

Follows the rib and crack feature right of Lust. Starts 4m left of Blades of Glory. Up slab, then left to good stance on dark block. Move left to base of prominent white rib feature and follow this to the top of the pod. Shift right into corner and up to orange roof. Move left into final crack which joins Lust at its final resting jug (3 moves from its finish).

FA: Redanon, 7 Mar

Alternative start to 'Blades' following the start of Lost then up the corner flakeline to join Blades of Glory just before its crux. Finish as for that.

FA: Jordan Goodchild, 28 Mar

FA: 28 Mar

The route just left of 'Battery Acid' (previously known as Zombie Pash). Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Pull onto right face level with a large pinch. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'. Watch the rope drag on the arete.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall.

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 23 Oct 2011

FFA: Matthew Broadbent, 30 Oct 2011

Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains.

Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

A direct start to ‘The Hat’. From ground level, stick clip bolt 5m left of Around the Horn then climb 'the warm up wall' to ledge. Wander up to 2nd bolt (shared with ‘Any Colour You Like’), then diagonally left to jug under roof crack. Clip 3rd BR, then get physical through the bulge passing a 4th BR on your right. At the 5th, move straight up over the small rooflet and join The Hat at the guano stained jug in the corner alcove. Finish as for the last 3 bolts of this route.

FA: Redanon, 8 Nov 2017

For the boulderer. Tackles the roof right of the grade 22 corner (The Hat). From the ledge move right (BR) then up into steep terrain passing an obvious ‘doorknob’ hold, then a series of underclings, slopers and sidepulls to an interesting cut-loose crux. Mantle small shelf to gain upper headwall and continue to chain.

FA: Michael Hillan Mathew Broadbent, 7 Aug 2011

FFA: steve Kelly, 26 Jan 2015

Not a good choice for your belayer. Start just left of the tagged project at ground level and climb obvious crack weakness to eventually step left out onto face and finish up short headwall above Any Colour You Like.

FA: Greg Rolton

An extension from Around The Horn anchor using the last 3 bolts of The Hat to its anchor. Use slings to minimise rope drag.

Not the best quality. Belayer beware. The left side of the red face staying off the white crumbly rocks.

Set: Michael Hillan

FA: Michael Hillan

FFA: Michael Hillan, 17 Apr 2017

Not the best quality. Belayer beware. Take the Red Corvette to it's 5th bolt (2nd one on the red arête proper), then bust left across the face via a sidepull and unconventional sequence into Cossack, clipping the last two bolts of that route.

FA: 31 Aug 2014

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Lokomotiv' then head boldly up the face left of, and using, the exposed arête. 4 bolts straight up the arête to chains. Stay out of the loose, dangerous corner. Due to broken hold since FA, be very wary of grade, if your not comfortable leading grade 22.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

Belayer beware. Start 3m right of gum behind large boulder. Climb the red slab then through roof to chains.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 14 Aug 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 14 Aug 2011

Start behind large boulder at very low 1st bolt? Climb black slab veering R. The 5th bolt is in an unnerving slab. Finish over or R of the final block to chains.

Start at the RH end of the vegetated ledge above the large boulder. Pass left of the first bolt over prominent bulge (difficult) and then up slabs to tri-chains.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 8 Oct 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 8 Oct 2011

The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 4 Sep 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 4 Sep 2011

Start at the LH end of rock platform above pool. Pull over RH side of nose past bolt, then easily L to high 2nd bolt. Continue up ridge to chains. Take off a couple of grades if you climb the LHS of the initial bulge.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 18 Sep 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 18 Sep 2011

The shallow scoop on the LHS of the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on LHS of ridge line.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 4 Sep 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 4 Sep 2011

Climb directly over the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on RHS of ridge line.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 4 Sep 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 4 Sep 2011

Several nice moves to join Thai Boxes at half-height.

FA: Greg Rolton Matthew Broadbent Michael Hillan, 4 Sep 2011

Start on the higher platform right of the nose of the buttress. Stiff start with delicate moves up textured slab. Hold loss at the start has made this a tad easier since the first ascent.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 18 Sep 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 18 Sep 2011

Is the direct lower off line from stiletto anchor. Use small finger ledges, sharp side pulls and under clings up face to a jug before gaining mantle to anchor. Stay off Stiletto crack and Shitty Limits corner. The line will not be bolted and is still cleaning up.

The brittle red corner with a scary exit R of Shity Limits

FA: Colin Reece, 1978

“Warning the ring bolts on this route are not recessed properly” Start on wall right of Stiletto (off ledge) and climb up trending right past three BRs to double BR anchor.

FA: Darren Williams, 2016

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